An EDIC question (1 Viewer)

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Michael B

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So I have an 88'-90' 2H I'm installing into my 78' FJ45. Is it possible/feasible to wire the EDIC to a manual switch to shut the engine off? I did not receive the relay for the EDIC with the engine.

Thanks,
Michael <><
 
My HJ47 just uses an old choke cable.. no EDIC, no relays etc.. I love it like that.. Pull to stop the engine, ensure its pushed in to start the engine.
 
Why is an edic preferable? I've read that there are 3 positions, a cold start, run, and off, and doesn't it also turn off fuel with a low pressure oil switch? If anyone can help me understand why an edic is preferable to a cable shutoff, please do
 
, and doesn't it also turn off fuel with a low pressure oil switch?

Yes, as far as I recall that sensor feeds to the EDIC on my truck, but on the H it could be different, others will know better than I :)

Interested in this exact topic actually. Had some starting problems (now solved) that I feared might have been relay related. I'm sure I'm missing something, but replacing the EDIC is unpossible/cost-prohibitive at best. Unobtainium at worst. Maybe they're more readily available for the 2H?

Fortunately my problem was elsewhere. :) I sort of frowned at a friend's suggestion to just skip connecting the oil pressure cutoff sensor in the process of bypassing the EDIC in favor of manual control. The bypass sounds great, but is it really a good idea to disable the cutoff?
 
Why is an edic preferable? I've read that there are 3 positions, a cold start, run, and off, and doesn't it also turn off fuel with a low pressure oil switch? If anyone can help me understand why an edic is preferable to a cable shutoff, please do

There's a few reasons why an EDIC is preferable..
  • Low Oil pressure will cut off engine
  • Starting is a single operation with a key
  • Engine wont start in reverse if you stall and roll backwards

With regards to the engine running backwards.. this is an interesting document that describes the problem by way of an example of two vehicle fires in an Australian mine..

http://www.dmp.wa.gov.au/documents/Bulletins/MS_GMP_SB_10firesonlight4wd.pdf

And yet.. I still like my cable.. it just works all the time and I understand it perfectly.
 
Thanks for the input guys! Duncanrm could you send me a picture of how yours is hooked up as I'm going to need to engineer my own.

Michael <><
 
Duncanrm could you send me a picture of how yours is hooked up as I'm going to need to engineer my own.

Michael <><

Sure..

Here's
  • Three images of the mounting of the choke cable on the injection pump.. the front of the car is to the right on each picture..
  • One image of the pull knob in the cab..
  • One image of a 2H I have out on a stand at the moment with the route and mounting point of the cable shown graphically
Imgur Album link (click for hi-res images of each): http://imgur.com/a/NhmO8

To operate the "EDIC Cable":
  • Pull to stop (pulls the fuel control lever towards the front of the car)
  • Push to start (pushes the fuel control lever towards the rear of the car)
Hope they're clear enough, I could get a side on photo of the cable in place but would need to remove the battery to get my camera down there.. happy to do that if required.

The cable curves around at the front of the car and then is routed back along the inside of the right hand fender, through the firewall and terminates on the dash on the right hand side (remembering that that is a Right Hand Drive vehicle).

For your interest.. heres a full set of photos of that 2H I have on that stand (https://imgur.com/a/rKQJ1)

Also.. I've called this a "choke cable".. I understand the correct term is a "Bowden Cable": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable. A search of Ebay for "Bowden cable" shows many hits of complete cables that may suit (length dependent) and parts to roll your own.
 
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thinking about this it must be out there something more simple .. I mean like small electric motor in a seal box ( or you can make it ...that's not big deal tho ) that move a rod forward and back .. coz all that you need ( in a specific range sure )
 
Thank you for the great explanations and great pictures. I like the phrase " caution is required when attempting to raise the bonnet". Yeah, I would think so...
 
Duncan that is VERY helpful. The pictures were clear enough. My 45 is also RHD, but I'm considering changing it to LHD. What year is the 2H on the stand? It looks different than mine, which is an 88'- 90'. I'm not too sure what the canister is over your oil filter. I'll be happy when my 2H looks as good as yours. Right now I'm making all changes before I take it completely apart for the rebuild.

Cheers,
Michael <><
 
What year is the 2H on the stand? It looks different than mine, which is an 88'- 90'. I'm not too sure what the canister is over your oil filter. <><

Hi Michael.. I'm not sure what specific year that engine is.. but its the early 2H (sleeved cylinders)..

The canister on top of the oil filter is a centrifugal oil spinner/filter.. it got deleted on later 2H's.. I'm not sure why they deleted it.. its sometimes added aftermarket to engines to keep the oil cleaner.

The 2H is a bit of a slug but so hugely reliable when looked after, easy to work on and there's a vast availability of spare parts (at least in Australia).. I really like them.

Best wishes for your project..
 
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Thanks Duncan. It may have been deleted to make room for the EDIC. On my engine it would have been in the way. Good luck with your project as well.
 
Another value of an EDIC over a push pull cable is that it overinjects when starting. It does help with getting the rig going in cold conditions.

In my experience Toyota diesels will run backwards in spite of the EDIC. I've had it happen many times. I've always managed to stall them quickly but it is possible that the EDIC would shut them down once the oil pressure dropped. As far as that goes I have on two occasions damaged an oil filter and lost all the oil without knowing it. In both cases the EDIC saved my engine.
 
Well I think I have it figured out. I used the connecting rod from the EDIC and the 2F accelerator actuator that was originally in my RHD 45 along with a 16 gauge plate I made from stock I had on hand. I believe a choke cable from an 80' - 82' FJ60 will work just fine to operate the valve. Thanks for all of the advice guys!

Michael <><

Shut off 1.jpg Shut off 2.jpg Shut off 3.jpg Shut off 1.jpg
 
Another value of an EDIC over a push pull cable is that it overinjects when starting. It does help with getting the rig going in cold conditions.

In my experience Toyota diesels will run backwards in spite of the EDIC. I've had it happen many times. I've always managed to stall them quickly but it is possible that the EDIC would shut them down once the oil pressure dropped. As far as that goes I have on two occasions damaged an oil filter and lost all the oil without knowing it. In both cases the EDIC saved my engine.


Im trying to figure out how to wire in the edic on my BJ to FJ60 conversion...? Do you know where i could find a diagram for the wiring? I'm sorta hell bent on making the edic work. If you have any links to point me towards, id appreciate it.
 
Im trying to figure out how to wire in the edic on my BJ to FJ60 conversion...? Do you know where i could find a diagram for the wiring? I'm sorta hell bent on making the edic work. If you have any links to point me towards, id appreciate it.

The HJ47 wiring diagram breaks it all down.. FCR and EDIC shown..

hj47wiring.jpg
 
EDIC is rather simple in terms of electronics. You can make the EDIC relay control from scratch if you like with Oil cut off and everything. I built one a few years a ago and haven't had an issue yet with, funky Chicken or random shutoff or anything. Here's a link to previous threads.
EDIC Controller build from scratch
 

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