Alternator brushes as PM

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Efjayforty said:
When I replace the brushes on my 98 200, I am going to replace the main bearing as well. I think it was only $13.
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Is the thinking that the front bearing is the only one at risk? It would take the majority of the load from the serpentine belt..
 
That is a good question. I would replace the bearings at both ends but I can only find the front bearing part number.
 
Efjayforty said:
That is a good question. I would replace the bearings at both ends but I can only find the front bearing part number.
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Yeah, I’m not sure if it comes with the rotor or (imo more likely) the rear cover and coil, but it’s not available separately.
 
I think your idea of replacing the brushes instead of the entire alternator is spot on. I have had great experiences doing just that. Only one time did I have to pull one off again due to a bearing failure. I wish I would have replaced the bearing when I replaced the brushes. I have both the brushes and bearings for my 200 that I will do this fall.

Similar but not exactly the same. When I first got my Sequoia, it had this strange noise from the starter area. I eventually correctly diagnosed it as a bendix failure although the starter worked. It was loose and hitting the ring gear which was kinda weird. I picked up a used starter from a salvage yard and did the 6 hour job to remove the 13 or so nuts and bolts that secure the starter and pulled it out through the front. What a pain. About 2 years later, the solenoid was doing the click, click, click and I kicked myself for being such an idiot and not replacing the solenoid at the same time. I dropped the starter and put a new solenoid on without having to take it entirely out but it was still a big pain.
 
Efjayforty said:
Similar but not exactly the same. When I first got my Sequoia, it had this strange noise from the starter area. I eventually correctly diagnosed it as a bendix failure although the starter worked. It was loose and hitting the ring gear which was kinda weird. I picked up a used starter from a salvage yard and did the 6 hour job to remove the 13 or so nuts and bolts that secure the starter and pulled it out through the front. What a pain. About 2 years later, the solenoid was doing the click, click, click and I kicked myself for being such an idiot and not replacing the solenoid at the same time. I dropped the starter and put a new solenoid on without having to take it entirely out but it was still a big pain.
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We’re getting a little off topic but to support your point, I actually planned to pull the starter and change the solenoid as PM. I am not a fan of the compromises often a part of short cuts and my rig is basically rust free so I elected to pull the manifold. Everything came off super easy except… one of the downpipe nuts galled, and it’s on a stud installed into the manifold. It snapped. I have the hot tools and quite a bit of experience but didn’t want to risk tearing up or warping the manifold so I brought it to a machine shop and even they had total hell, which resulted in not only a wallowed out stud hole but a crack in the manifold too.

So my solenoid job turned into an extra $450 manifold as icing on the cake.

Point is, we gotta think through the PM stuff and weigh out the potential problems on the way. But for some of us the knowledge that all the at least foreseeable stuff is addressed is worth it.
 
possibly off topic - how is access to the Alt Bush's with the Alt mounted to engine?
I.E. can I field replace them in Situ?
 
I’ll go on the record as saying it isn’t possible. If you could cut the spring bucket and UCA bolt mount off the frame, sure. But those parts are seriously in the way.
 
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bloc said:
Bonus content:

I and at least another person @Bryanmc had difficulty getting the alternator away from the block even with all of the bolts removed. It turns out there are some locating sleeves pressed into the timing cover that ensure the alternator is in a spot that will keep the serpentine belt in line. Those sleeves can corrode into their spots in the alternator, and pull out of the timing cover.

This little guy isn't supposed to be on the work bench with the alternator..

View attachment 3620065

A couple of different size punches were able to get them out without damage

View attachment 3620066

View attachment 3620067

I then cleaned them up and used spare bolts and spacers to pull them back into the timing cover

View attachment 3620072

View attachment 3620073
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Well, I'm replacing my alternator and running into issues with these sleeves as well. One of them wasn't fused to the alternator ear (the one on the stud), but the other is. I tried removing a couple different ways, but didn't have an appropriately sized punch. I should have just waited and ordered a set. I ended up pushing the sleeve further into the ear, thinking maybe i could push it through the other side. But it seems to be more stuck now. I will order a set of punches and see if I can get lucky and still push it out the right way.

As plan Bs. Have any thoughts on a suitable replacement if i can't get mine out, or if I have damaged it too much to this point using the wrong tools to try to remove it from the alternator?

Also, did you use a little red locktite to reattach it to the timing cover?
 
Well, i answered my own question. Looks like you can order the bushing separate. Wish I had known that, Only costs $1.10 each. I would have added a few to my last Partsouq order.

Part #: 90253-13017

Common to multiple engines it looks like.

9025313017.jpg
 
Ah yeah, sorry for the delay. Away from home so no real keyboard.

I did not use anything to retain the sleeve.. between it being pretty easy (in my case) to deal with and the risk of it not wanting to come out of the front cover for some reason if I need it to.. I’ll see what happens the next time I pull the alternator.

Edit: on second thought, I think I put anti-seize on the alternator side of the sleeve location, so hopefully that does its job.
 
lx200inAR said:
Well, i answered my own question. Looks like you can order the bushing separate. Wish I had known that, Only costs $1.10 each. I would have added a few to my last Partsouq order.

Part #: 90253-13017

Common to multiple engines it looks like.

9025313017.jpg
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Thanks for the part number! Two of mine were stuck in the alternator, and I've bastardized them pretty badly to remove. I think I'll just buy new ones for my Denso reman unit.

Like others, I've got a small timing cover leak that seems to have dripped oil on the alternator. I'm at 211,000 km (~126,000 miles) on the original Alternator and it seems completely dead. Would oil from a timing leak cover be the culprit? I expect I'll leak oil on the new alternator until I get brave enough to remove the timing cover and re-seal.
 
CanadianRockyCruiser said:
Would oil from a timing leak cover be the culprit?
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I wouldn’t think so, given the only part that should matter for oil contam is the brush holder and the design of it should keep oil out.

But I admit I’m not totally sure.
 
bloc said:
I wouldn’t think so, given the only part that should matter for oil contam is the brush holder and the design of it should keep oil out.

But I admit I’m not totally sure.
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I got the old one out last night. What fun that was! It had some oil on it, but it didn't seem like a ton. Bearings seem fine. I'm suspecting it's got either worn brushes or failed diodes. I'll dig in a bit deeper, once I've swapped in the Denso reman unit and a new battery.
 
Hi,

Was hoping someone could confirm that the brush assembly 27370-0S010 is correct for my 2009 LX570. Mine works fine, but I am doing the radiator, and want to pull it to inspect. Buying cooling system parts from Cruiser Teq, and they told me that this part is being shown as incorrect, and they do not have a brush holder listed for the 200. My guess is that it is correct, but maybe Toyota does not list it as a replaceable part. Just want to make sure I have all of the right parts on hand before doing this job.

Thanks, Austin
 
AAubinoe said:
Hi,

Was hoping someone could confirm that the brush assembly 27370-0S010 is correct for my 2009 LX570. Mine works fine, but I am doing the radiator, and want to pull it to inspect. Buying cooling system parts from Cruiser Teq, and they told me that this part is being shown as incorrect, and they do not have a brush holder listed for the 200. My guess is that it is correct, but maybe Toyota does not list it as a replaceable part. Just want to make sure I have all of the right parts on hand before doing this job.

Thanks, Austin
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I just verified the original diagrams show 27370-27060 for an 09LX570, which the number you listed above supersedes.

Yes most likely just a glitch in their parts cross references.
 
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