Alternator bolt part #?

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Oct 8, 2018
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Location
N. Texas
I replaced my alternator on the side of the road, in the dark last week, and managed to pull a bolt out of the block that I think was not supposed to come out. If you look at this video at the 10.01 min mark, you'll see the alternator nut on the right, and the two bolts at 6 and 10 O'clock positions. I managed to not remove the 12mm nut, but the whole bolt came out. The nut is rounded off and I can't get it off the bolt. So right now my alternator is held in place with just the 2 bolts at 6 and 10. Anyone know the part number for the bolt and nut I removed?
 
Yeah seems alot of people push them for parts, I've never order from them but if I'm looking for a part number their catalog diagrams are helpful.
 

Here ya go man, partsouq has good parts diagrams.

Thanks, but I looked at a parts diagram. It only shows the bolt at 6 O'clock. That is the same kind that goes at 10 O'clock. I need the one that has threads at both ends, with a nut that secures the alternator on it.
 
Thanks, but I looked at a parts diagram. It only shows the bolt at 6 O'clock. That is the same kind that goes at 10 O'clock. I need the one that has threads at both ends, with a nut that secures the alternator on it.
Hey @Coin know this is an old thread, but I know exactly what happened to you because it happened to me today. That long bolt is essentially stuck to my old alternator. I was able to get a new one in, and it is riding on 2 secure points (Hopefully it is fine, it feels secure) for peace of mind. If you find/found that bolt or thread pitch let me know! Thanks.
 
I’m in the same boat. Put the alternator in without that bolt. That was 4+ years ago and all is still just fine. I never did figure out how to source another bolt.
 
I place a thin 14mm (IIRC) wrench on studs shaft nut (red arrow point to), to hold stud. Then six point socket or box end wrench, on securing (fastener) nut.
Alternator 03-.webp


If you've alternator out with securing nut, stuck on the stud). You can remove the nut from stud in most cases and reuse the stud.

I place a "thin" open end wrench, on studs' shaft nut (red arrow picture above). "Thin", so it fits between stud shaft nut and alternator. I've ground thin, a open end wrench, just for this alternator stud.

With alternator out. One can, clamp on stud along shafts in non threads area if one doesn't have a thin open wrench or wrench is not holding well enough. Or use both the thin open end wrench and clamp on studs shafts. This yields a supper hold on stud.

Then clamp on the damaged 12mm securing nut with either a: Six point box wrench, six point socket, nut extractor socket, vise grips or vise. Unthread nut off the stud.

I install the stud with a little red thread-locker on its threads (side that threads into block) and torque to 11ft-lbf. with long socket.
Thread sealer is a lube. We see red sealer on threads in picture of new stud. So I don't reduce torque 20% to 30%, for lubed threads.

Alternator Toque: 12mm fasteners 12ft-lbf.,14mm 29ft-lbf. Note: 98-02 have two fasteners (securing nuts & bolts) points, 03-07 have 3 fasteners points.
Vane pump (steering pump) 14mm bolts (3), torque 13ft-lbf. (Note 2005 FSM. Has this wrong in one spot, at 54ft-lbf.)

One thing not shown in video and so often missed by DIY and shops. The wire hanger bracket, must be swapped over from old alternator.

I've never bought one of these studs. But this should be it.
Make sure to match with your bolt/stud. If near a dealership, just order from them. Tell them which bolt, they should get correct P/N.

Toyota 90109-08298 Bolt
d63f253f81361aa418ce2e1199c853f4 (1).webp
IMG_9344.webp
IMG_9346.webp

Alternator wire hander bracket. Must be swamped over to new alt..
ALT bracket (2).webp

Main hot wire is keyed. Place keys of wire end in slots of alternator. Torque nut to 7ft-lbf. Best the protective cover clip on cover stub/wire end/nut. Exposed is a fire risk. Snap in wire harness, to hanger bracket. This keeps wire from bouncing around.

IMG_4793.webp
8282322050 (1).webp
 
@2001LC Appreciate the insight. I had a wrench that was just too thick to apply counterpressure when removing, so I was unable to separate. I will just go with your solution and purchase a new bolt with some Loctite. I was able to get the wiring plate back on, but lost the cover of the grounding screw, so that was a helpful part number # I could see it getting corroded over time, so I will throw it on. Thanks Again!
 
I had to change out the alternator in an autozone parking lot at 10pm. I don’t remember what happened to the missing stud/bolt. 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for the part #!
 
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