Alignment help needed

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thetoyotaman

thetoyotaman

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Earlier this year, I replaced my steering rack, tie rod, rebuilt the power steering pump, new reservoir, and new hoses. I also installed a cooler which has been working fantastic. Front end is tight. I used some toe bars to set the toe and try to calculate some slight toe-in for the 33s I was running. They were mostly worn out so I waited until now to get a professional alignment after installing my stock size winter KO2s. The steering wheel seems slightly off to the right when I’m going straight and when I turn the wheel all the way each direction it doesn’t stop at the same point. Curious how to get this correct. Also, I have heard of some people zeroing out the caster for more tire clearance, but wondering how much of a difference that really makes.

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Also, what does the steer ahead angle mean on the spec sheet?
 
Stay with the caster numbers you’re at. Toe isn’t within spec and steering wheel should be centered- that depends on the tech centering the wheel when taking readings and making adjustments. There are adjustable stops for end of steering travel.
 
TahoeZ said:
Stay with the caster numbers you’re at. Toe isn’t within spec and steering wheel should be centered- that depends on the tech centering the wheel when taking readings and making adjustments. There are adjustable stops for end of steering travel.
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Should the steer ahead and total toe be the same for a centered steering wheel?
 
I counted the outer tie-rod threads and it came up to be 9 each. Looks like the rack is nicely centered.
 
If I’m understanding this correctly, I probably need a slight tie rod adjustment to center the steering wheel and need the wheel angle adjusted which in my experience alignment shops don’t do. @2001LC looking at my pictures of the wheel turned all the way each direction does one of them look correct? Curious if I could adjust this by the steering wheel angle in the interior to get close as opposed to trying to get the adjustment correct without an alignment machine.

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Toe adjustments are good on the sheet, but the steering wheel wasn’t centered when the tech did it so it’s not correct.

Adjust wheel angle stops yourself. It’s just a bolt with a lock nut.
 
Yeah, looks easy to do the adjustment with a wrench, but I’m not sure how to measure the adjustment at home
 
Most times when steering wheel off center, after alignment. Alignment tech did not center and lock steering wheel in place, during alignment. .

Alignment tech, can center steering wheel. By adjusting TRE equally, assuming alignment dead-on.

I like my TRE thread count as equal as reasonable. Equal thread count, means each TRE is the same length.

Other times, thread count equal. Steering Wheel way off center. They can adjust TRE, but makes TRE length to unequal. In that event, the steering wheel or one of the intermediate shaft ends, needs repositioning. This happens if Rack Pinion, intermediate shaft or steering wheel has been disconnect/replaced, poorly realigning R&P to steering wheel.

In the VGRS of LX470 03-07. We just center steering electronical. So sweet and easy.

Alert Alert Alert
I've seen one other reason for steering wheel off center. Inner TRE has become unstaked, and is walking off. The inner TRE is hidden by the boot. Make impossible to just visually see it's loose and walking off.
I find these, by having only one front tire off the ground. Grab it, at the 3 & 6 o-clock and rock. If lite clank heard. I then pinching boot, where it meets the rack. If movement felt between rack & inner TRE while rocky tire. I pull the boot.

Unstaked and walking off inner TRE (ITRE). More ITRE walks off, the more steering turns off center.
23-5-8 LH TRE inner found loose.webp
 
Yeah, my steering wheel is close. I would almost say half a spline from being perfectly straight. I just like it right after an alignment. I don’t know how much that would affect my perfect tie rod thread count.
 
Once steering wheel center, TRE as they should be. knuckle stop, determine how far left and right.
 
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I often see knuckle stop bolt capture threads damage or bolt has fallen out. Because someone adjusted outward, to stop oversized tire rub. Either to far out, didn't tighten lock nut on or both.

When you turn knuckle stop bolts, you also change turn radius.
 
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Do you adjust the steering stops yourself and if so what is your method?
 
thetoyotaman said:
Do you adjust the steering stops yourself and if so what is your method?
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Change knuckle stop bolt, position as you like. It doesn't effect alignment. Just turning radius. Just don't have stop bolt, turned out to far.

I've had to, repair threads and replace knuckle stops that fell out. When I do, I just look at where factory set knuckle stops (~3 threads exposed). Then set the same, with each side having about same thread count. One can tweak each bolt a bit, if unhappy with where one side or the other stops. We do want/need a good amount of bolts threads captured in LCA capture thread.

Some guys crank stop bolt out so far, only capturing about 3 threads. The force in turn while driving over bumps. Rips out the threads. Those are the PITA ones, I must repair thread. Which we then end up with less threads to work with and must set in deeper.

If I was getting an alignment, and had some concerned with stops. I'd ask tech to set stops. After, I would, recheck toque of lock nut.
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Never found anyone that will do the setting. The 3 threads is very helpful. If there is no stop would it damage the rack?
 
IDK! But don't think so. As never seen damage when missing. One pictured above, now has added 100K miles on R&P, since replacing.
 
2001LC, what's your process for repairing the threads for the knuckle stop bolt? The one on my passenger side LCA is missing, I have the replacement stop and nut in hand, and if it turns out I have an issue with the threads, I'd like to be ready. Looks like you're using a grinding stone and then a tap?
 
BamaHoo said:
2001LC, what's your process for repairing the threads for the knuckle stop bolt? The one on my passenger side LCA is missing, I have the replacement stop and nut in hand, and if it turns out I have an issue with the threads, I'd like to be ready. Looks like you're using a grinding stone and then a tap?
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See picture above. I show tools I use.
 
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