Alignment/caster issues on the 80 series

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The rear upper control arms are adjustable and came with the slee kit. They look perfectly even on both sides.

Spindles are brand new OEM, installed at the same time I rebuilt the front axle.

The rear control arms “look” straight when I put a level on them. Just to feed my OCD I ordered a new set from Slee, which will go on later this week.

The calipers are brand new on all four corners, and after driving the truck for a long distance I can’t feel any wheel being hotter than any of the others. Is there a more scientific way of testing for this?

Few folks suggested it could be a bent axle housing. I don’t understand how this wouldn’t become apparent during an alignment. What is a way to really test if front or rear housing is bent?
 
@digitalmarker have you fixed the issue on your rig pulling to the right? I’m having the same issue ever since I lifted it 6 inches.

It all started happening when I went from 3 inches to 6 inches. Before I had OME bushings with the 3 and it tracked straight. Now at 6 I installed stock control arms with Dobson 5-7 inch caster plates and thats when the pulling to the right occurred. Even after I installed New bushings, newer used front control arms, it’s still happening.
 
Slee is good stuff. If money no object, let them keep it long enough to suss it out. Then let us know what it turns out to be. :clap:
I have the same issue with the 3" lift (by Slee as well), but I'm also 12 bushings short of fully rebushed FCA's and panhards. So I'm blaming that. Meanwhile, on the trails, 'Smitty' drives just fine (albeit a little boily gassy).
 
In my case it turned out to be a bent front axle housing. Unfortunately no cheap fix for this problem - I paid about 1700 IIRC for a brand new one from the dealer, with a discount. Replaced it together with regearing/axles and obviously a fresh knuckle job/bearings etc., and the truck has been tracking perfectly straight since.
 
Were you able to determine where the axle housing was bent?
No, but according to the shops I talked to the common weak point is right behind the knuckle ball. The way I narrowed it down by the way is by out of whack camber numbers - the PS differed significantly from the DS side, while both sides matched up on the rear. This didn't improve after a knuckle rebuild, so all signs pointed to a bent housing.
 
Cool
No, but according to the shops I talked to the common weak point is right behind the knuckle ball. The way I narrowed it down by the way is by out of whack camber numbers - the PS differed significantly from the DS side, while both sides matched up on the rear. This didn't improve after a knuckle rebuild, so all signs pointed to a bent housing.
I need to re-check my camber after doing a knuckle rebuild, sounds quite similar to my axle unfortunately. Did you get a new housing and transfer all the knuckle castings/hardware, etc over?
 
Cool

I need to re-check my camber after doing a knuckle rebuild, sounds quite similar to my axle unfortunately. Did you get a new housing and transfer all the knuckle castings/hardware, etc over?
Yes, and I regeared and did a fresh knuckle rebuild at the same time.
 
Gents, I've got my newly acquired LX450 lifted by 2850J/2863J springs and 1" spacers. There are 4" drop brackets similar to man-a-fre installed to correct the caster.
What I've got in the alignment report is confusing. The caster is almost zero while I expected it to be within the specs. What could that be? The stance of the truck is a bit of stinky bug as I didn't put much load on the rear yet. Could it be the reason that the truck doesn't keep the straight line and needs corrections all the time?
And yes, I need to work on the rear axle too as it's a bit turned as the result of the lift.

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Take out the rear spacers and see if that improves handling.
 
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