Air conditioning gurus needed (1 Viewer)

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Still no A/C ... Check the pressures they are good
Bypassed the pressure switch still no luck put a different computer in the car behind the glove compartment and the HVAC computer behind all the controls.

Techstream is still getting a signal for "AC cut" and I don't know what else to check
 
Did you swap relays? Check high pressure and low pressure switches.
 
I bypassed the switch that is located drivers front side right next to the frame rail. ... Are you saying there is a 2nd one?
I am not too familiar with the 100 series system but it will have at least one pressure switch, some will have a low pressure cut off and high pressure cut off switch.
Just too add some compressor are variable which means there is another switch in the compressor.
 
had this exact same issue - $50 recharge kit from lowes fixed the problem - system just needed more R134a - ICE cold now
 
Was the evaporator taken out before this issue? I was chasing an ac leak that happened over winter. Saw UV dye by the firewall and decided to pulled the evap to inspect. And it turned out to be in good shape, replaced the O-rings and Schrader valves. Vacuum tested and it held pressure, proceeded to add 134 but the compressor wouldn’t turn on. I was about to burn down my super neglected LX by the previous owners after trying to solve it for 2 days. Then decided I should go back and check the evap. Turns out I forgot to plug in the thermistor, the smallest connector by the evap box lol. Compressor kicked on after that and ac is ice cold now. Just praying there’s no more leak.

If your compressor kicks on when bypassing and pressure is good then you should check all the electrical connectors related to ac, if you’ve done any ac work elsewhere.
 
I've recommended to this guy a few times to have the system evacuated and recharged just to be certain the charge level is correct, he won't do it for some reason....
Because my system doesn't have any leaks when I check the pressures the pressures are exactly where they need to be. I believe my problem is electrical not mechanical. It's a lot cheaper to try and diagnose electrical stuff with a multimeter then just start throwing parts out of vehicle hoping it'll get fixed. Step number one is identify the problem and I've ruled out any type of leaks by verifying pressures are good.
 
Was the evaporator taken out before this issue? I was chasing an ac leak that happened over winter. Saw UV dye by the firewall and decided to pulled the evap to inspect. And it turned out to be in good shape, replaced the O-rings and Schrader valves. Vacuum tested and it held pressure, proceeded to add 134 but the compressor wouldn’t turn on. I was about to burn down my super neglected LX by the previous owners after trying to solve it for 2 days. Then decided I should go back and check the evap. Turns out I forgot to plug in the thermistor, the smallest connector by the evap box lol. Compressor kicked on after that and ac is ice cold now. Just praying there’s no more leak.

If your compressor kicks on when bypassing and pressure is good then you should check all the electrical connectors related to ac, if you’ve done any ac work elsewhere.
Yes that's what I'm attempting to do.
 
Because my system doesn't have any leaks when I check the pressures the pressures are exactly where they need to be. I believe my problem is electrical not mechanical. It's a lot cheaper to try and diagnose electrical stuff with a multimeter then just start throwing parts out of vehicle hoping it'll get fixed. Step number one is identify the problem and I've ruled out any type of leaks by verifying pressures are good.
How can your pressures be where they need to be when the compressor isn't turning on? Your jumping it to get it on, step 1 is to verify system charge. You'd be surprised how pressure appear to be normal yet the system is still quite a bit low. I'm just trying to help you out man and try to avoid you tossing money ay something that isn't needed. You've already wasted tons of time of this. I do this for a living, I own/operate a shop. They only way to know for sure if the charge level is correct is to evacuate and recharge to spec. Even if that's not the cause of your issue at the least you can positively rule that out....send me the VIN and I'll get the AC compressor schematic for you so you can troubleshoot it properly.
 
Step one: Evacuate and Recharge system to VERIFY proper amount of freon is present!
WITHOUT rear AC... 23oz +/- 1.5oz
WITH REAR AC... 37oz +/- 1.5oz

If this is not your first step, you are just wasting time and breath!
 
Found my problem .... WTF .... Well at least it's fixed and what do you know I didn't have to vacuum down the system and recharge everything like was suggested to me so many times.

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Found my problem .... WTF .... Well at least it's fixed and what do you know I didn't have to vacuum down the system and recharge everything like was suggested to me so many times.

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You asked for troubleshooting advice over the internet and received step one.....glad you finally figured it out, only took you 2 months ... 😉
 

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