Air Bags Inside OME Coils

[jellis]

It needs to be done with a pressure gauge, parts here:

Replacing Brake Lines, Adj LSPV and Bleeding Brakes

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BILT4ME]

Bumping this one as I am about to install. Any tips or perhaps pics of the installation process? I will be installing in a 97 LX with OME 862 springs. Also looking for ideas about where to run the airlines. This is my first thread to rad through on the subject so, I will likely find what I am looking for shortly.

Thanks Mud!

I ran my hoses across the axle housing, Tee'd together, then up the left upper control arm, then across to the frame, up through the LR fender under the gas fill to terminate the Schrader valve inside the gas fill area.

I chose to tie both together with one line rather than two separate lines. Works well for me. I don't have a pump and only fill it when I need it (25 PSI Max for mine, Airlift brand)

The first time I did it, I dropped the springs in order to remove the internal bump-stop. Yes, these must come out.

I agree with oversizing the hole in the base of the spring perch on the axle (the hose points DOWN towards the axle housing). Also take a file (round rat-tail) and smooth the edges above and below the new hole so there are no burrs to cut your hose or the bag. Run your bare finger through the hole aggressively to make sure that if it doesn't cut your finger, it won't cut the bag or line.

I zip-tied the hose with a wide bend at each bend where the suspension would flex so there was room to flex and not contact anything, including exhaust.
I then ran the hose up into the LR fender underneath through one of the rubber grommets, then up into the jack area where the valve is inside the gas fill on the outside.

Make sure to zip tie frequently (use black zip ties only) and make sure that there are no sharp corners for the hose to rub on, including the edge of any sheet metal.

I once placed the air bag valve (for a Jeep Grand Cherokee) inside the rear hatch door, thinking this would protect it. However, when I had on a hitch rack with a lot of gear (hence the need for the air bags) I couldn't open the gate for access. That's why I went to the gas fill door. It has worked well for me.

 

[on the rocks]

Keep in mind when tying them together it increases body roll on the road but helps articulation. I tied them together for many years and when I go back in I will separate the feeds, never liked the body roll it caused. Also placed the valve in the gas cap area. Great location. Replaced with a rear charcoal canister vent that is actually venting and I can see it.

The pressure gauge link cracks me up. Funny to see it mentioned here of all places and of course the proper way to adjust the brakes per the factory manual. The part I find funny , this is the first time I have seen it mentioned here EVER, and not one person threatening to turn you into the brake police if you remove your LSPV... Not searching for one but I have never seen someone actually do a write up on the process, including those shunning everyone for changing their brakes. If it was helping others and actually trying to educate others, you would think this info would be sent along with the message.

 

[jellis]

Mine went bad so I ended up deleting it (i.e., pinning it in a set position). I did this in part because HDJ stuff is a PITA to get here and once you add air bags it really becomes quite useless anyway. On rigs this old when adding airbags it's worth checking simply because it's probably shot anyway.

I did quite a bit of reading on here but didn't bookmark much so I can't easily repost. I think my problem was that it failed in a way that kept rear brake pressure low (I think 300 or 400psi instead of ~800), so I just made it within spec according to FSM in an unloaded state (which is what the LSPV will always sense with airbags installed). Here's one geeky detailed writeup I book marked:

Diagnosing brake issues / adjusting LSPV with pressure gauges

There have been many threads on adjusting the LSPV, ditching the LSPV, poorly operating brakes, etc. A great way to understand what is going on with your brakes is to measure the pressure at the calipers. This is the method prescribed in the FSM for adjusting the LSPV. In the absence of...

forum.ih8mud.com

IIRC, what you DO NOT WANT is to set rear brake pressure too high and have the rears lock up before fronts. Set to factory but then check on bad/wet roads and make sure rears don't lock up first, if they do tone it down.