AHC removal / delete experience (2 Viewers)

Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
336
Location
Chandler AZ
Here're some things I learnt along the way while removing AHC from our 01 LX470.
I am removing AHC because I am adding front (T13) and rear bumpers (BIOR) and have sliders (OPOR), and I don't want the AHC collapsing on me while exploring far away.

1. Drain the AHC fluid from every AHC bleeder you can find - and the reservoir before removing anything - and you will still spill some, but its not so bad.

2. Put your cruiser on 4 jack stands and you'll need your jack for the rear axle while doing those shocks and springs.

3. Wrenches. I had ordered a 22mm offset wrench from ebay but the angle of the offset encroached too much on the AHC stuff on the top of the shock - so I went to Harbor Freight and picked these up - much better.
photo 1 (6).JPG


I also grabbed these long handled wrenches to fit on the bottom of the new shock shaft to have something to torque against.

photo 2 (5).JPG



4. On the front shocks - save your self some time and hassle and use a carbide bit and drill a hole in the shock body to hold it still with a screw driver while you unscrew the top. This is what I ultimately did after trying to use a pipe wrench and a strap wrench to hold it still.

5. On the rears - I drilled 1 1/2" holes in the floor panel and used my impact wrench. I had those two shocks off in less time than it took me to drain the AHC fluid! I also installed the two new ones and was able to check torque very quickly from above. I used the long handled spanners above to hold the bottom of the top shaft still - by tying the wrench to the frame cross member.

I have some plugs for the holes. My plan is to put in the plugs (they're zinc plated sink hole caps from HD), and then cover them with some of that adhesive rubber liner (like dynamat - but for roofing ;) ) to maintain the sound isolation and moisture protection. If I remember I'll post pix when I do it.

Passenger side - my 22mm deep socket is on the shock bolt awaiting application of impact!
photo 4 (1).JPG

Drivers side - socket in hole again.
photo 5.JPG



6. I didn't need to remove the brake lines to drop the rear axle enough to swap the springs - it was close though, but I did have to remove the stabilizer bar to get it to go low enough.

More boing (OME 2866 vs AHC stock)
photo 2 (6).JPG

7. I am still removing all the AHC equipment. The hard line from the front right globe to the shock was hard to maneuver out - I considered cutting it - but in the end I was able to get it out. I have a 12mm flex head gear wrench that is making removing the globes easier. The globe assembly is surprisingly heavy. I think removing the AHC will compensate for he weight of my sliders!

8. I unplugged all three connectors from the AHC controller under the dash above the accelerator pedal. Box has a label on it "AHC". I did not remove any fuses or relays, but I did unplug all the AHC equipment. No AHC lights and no check engine or other warning lights are on.

I have installed slee's OME 1.5" heavy kit and have driven it twice including rough dirt roads - and I like it - even though I haven't put the heavy bumpers on yet - in fact this was without any front bumper!

Hope this helpful.
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
1,768
Location
new jersey
so no codes are showing??? this sounds promising; but I have heard that newer models will have different codes; any one else experience this??
 
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
336
Location
Chandler AZ
I didn't check codes, that would be a good idea, but definitely no warning lights. I can also check with Techstream to see what it says about AHC, VSC etc. (no VGRS in 01 I think though).

A
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
147
Location
Tracy, CA
Crap. You just gave me one more reason to do this sooner than later. Thanks for the write up!

Like @r3run33 I'm curious about codes on newer models (I have an 03). Mainly concerned about CEL so I don't fail smog since I live in DPRNK.
 
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
336
Location
Chandler AZ
I have since checked codes with my Techstream and saw none. The AHC computer is not accessible, but it does not cause any issues with any other ECUs or codes. (Above I explained that I disconnected all three connectors from the AHC computer above the pesals). Also I can confirm that AHC and VSC still work after some sideways driving in the sand... ;)

Also while I remember...here's how I sealed the holes I drilled for the rear shock access.
I used these Elkay Faucet Hole covers from Home Depot. And then I overlaid it with the tar backed roofing insulation stuff (which I used as damping material when I upgraded my speakers).
IMG_1291.JPG



IMG_1293.JPG
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
114
At least for me, there is no need to cut the hole in the floor. I just welded a 22mm socket on a wrench at the correct angle and i had them off very easily. IMHO why cut a hole in the floor, its just as easy to make the correct tool... if you dont have a welder than just grind the sides of a 22mm socket flat to fit a crescent wrench or appropriate open end and save your body panel
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
114
I would like to add that the OP did a great job at his chosen method... Using the extra faucet hole plug with that tape looks pretty solid maybe sikaflex the underneath G2G! Not to mention his hole placement was right on the money!
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Messages
77
Location
Seattle
I think that if you're removing your AHC you shouldn't be afraid to cut the hard lines. Just be sure you're getting the AHC line and not one of the rear brake lines where they're all next to each other. I triple checked before cutting by simply following the lines up to their respective sources.

After reading everything about doing it before getting my hands dirty I was expecting a PITA. It went fine though. And for the rear shock top-nut my Kobalt socket set worked great because they are hollow (no need for a deep socket) and have a low profile allowing it to fit in the tight clearance w/o issue.

The one annoying part was I had to release the gas tank straps and lower it a bit to get to one hidden bolt. If I weren't being picky about getting every piece off this wouldn't have been necessary.
 

ClassyJalopy

Here we go again!
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Joined
Jun 4, 2018
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1,987
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Madison, WI
My lines and globes are still on there. With 20 years of service in midwest, none of the 12 mm bolts on the top side of the frame want to come out.
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2016
Messages
885
Location
Middle Tennessee
My lines and globes are still on there. With 20 years of service in midwest, none of the 12 mm bolts on the top side of the frame want to come out.
Same here, after 20 years in the rust belt there was no tool that could loosen the bolts at the top of the frame. Looking at the bright side, all those parts lower the center of gravity.
 

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