AHC LX stopped working after globe change & possible air in system

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Sep 20, 2020
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Location
Oakland, CA
Hey folks,

Decided to take on my globe change yesterday as they arrived from Impex in record time (about $500 all in, 2 weeks). System was working fine previously with 7 graduations on the test but trying to improve the ride quality. That all went fine, bled all 5 nipples, globes came off very easy with this 36mm wrench and didn't even need to remove running board brackets to get the new ones in. I did notice that after bleeding, the reservoir level hadn't changed much.

I topped up the reservoir to the top well beyond the max (with the plastic AHC bottles - I now realize that I should have inspected the fluid for gel) and started her up. All seemed to go well, went up to neutral and then went up to high, admittedly I thought because the reservoir was full it wouldn't risk going dry, stupid assumption! To my horror after it had gone to high it looked like the reservoir was empty. I promptly filled it up and dropped it down to Neutral.

Since then the car struggled to change height and the AHC pump started making a higher pitched noise so I turned it off (not wanting to stress the pump) and went ahead and did some more bleeding starting at the 5th accumulator and then the globes. Got 500mL or so out of clear fluid no air and the car is pretty much down to the bump stops. I did notice that throughout this the level in the reservoir did not change - is it supposed to or only when the car runs?

The AHC is now in low and the OFF light has come on. It seems to me there's air in the system higher up but when opening the bleed valves nothing comes out.

I've looked over the countless threads on AHC here and have gotten some good ideas but before I start tearing in to it any more would love to hear the thoughts of the AHC gods @PADDO @suprarx7nut and others? Could a vacuum bleeder be useful or perhaps some positive pressure from the reservoir? This is exactly what I wanted to avoid but live and learn I guess!

Cheers.
 
Hey folks,

Decided to take on my globe change yesterday as they arrived from Impex in record time (about $500 all in, 2 weeks). System was working fine previously with 7 graduations on the test but trying to improve the ride quality. That all went fine, bled all 5 nipples, globes came off very easy with this 36mm wrench and didn't even need to remove running board brackets to get the new ones in. I did notice that after bleeding, the reservoir level hadn't changed much.

I topped up the reservoir to the top well beyond the max (with the plastic AHC bottles - I now realize that I should have inspected the fluid for gel) and started her up. All seemed to go well, went up to neutral and then went up to high, admittedly I thought because the reservoir was full it wouldn't risk going dry, stupid assumption! To my horror after it had gone to high it looked like the reservoir was empty. I promptly filled it up and dropped it down to Neutral.

Since then the car struggled to change height and the AHC pump started making a higher pitched noise so I turned it off (not wanting to stress the pump) and went ahead and did some more bleeding starting at the 5th accumulator and then the globes. Got 500mL or so out of clear fluid no air and the car is pretty much down to the bump stops. I did notice that throughout this the level in the reservoir did not change - is it supposed to or only when the car runs?

The AHC is now in low and the OFF light has come on. It seems to me there's air in the system higher up but when opening the bleed valves nothing comes out.

I've looked over the countless threads on AHC here and have gotten some good ideas but before I start tearing in to it any more would love to hear the thoughts of the AHC gods @PADDO @suprarx7nut and others? Could a vacuum bleeder be useful or perhaps some positive pressure from the reservoir? This is exactly what I wanted to avoid but live and learn I guess!

Cheers.
I think the vacuum bleeder is no good here. The valves need to allow fluid flow and that doesn't happen unless the system is running the active test or it's raising.

If you have tech stream, then running the active test would be great. If not, I'd try some height cycles with a normal car jack. If you can forcibly move fluid around I think you might shakes that air slug past the pump.

You shouldn't be able to overheat the pump too easily. It goes into self-preservation mode real fast if it's not building pressure.
 
Thanks for these responses guys. I have gotten the pump to run a few more times (long pressing the OFF button) but no movement, no fluid level change in the reservoir and a higher pitched noise from the pump. I did try jacking up the front up and down a few times but no luck, might try a bit more or possibly driving around. I also tried cracking the 5th accumulator bleed valve while it was whining but nothing is coming out. I've attached a short video of the pump in action....
 
Man, sounds like you might want to pull your pump and check for blockage.
Yeah definitely feels like a blockage or air lock or something. If I remove the pump assy are there any o rings or other parts I should have on hand in case? A bit concerned about cracking the seal on the pressure line, is it just a flare fitting in to the pump? Any ideas on things to try before I remove the pump and I'm game. Just ordered a laptop for techstream (can't get it working on my M1 MacBook)..
 
Yeah definitely feels like a blockage or air lock or something. If I remove the pump assy are there any o rings or other parts I should have on hand in case? A bit concerned about cracking the seal on the pressure line, is it just a flare fitting in to the pump? Any ideas on things to try before I remove the pump and I'm game. Just ordered a laptop for techstream (can't get it working on my M1 MacBook)..

Yes -- you do need Techstream if working on the AHC system -- or other scanner which can read the Suspension ECU.

Meanwhile here are some preliminaries which may give you some insights:

1. Look inside AHC Tank – does AHC Fluid appear ‘frothy’? If “YES”, this would indicate that aerated fluid has been returned to the tank from the AHC system,

2. Use the “manual Active Test” method offered long ago by @PADDO, as described as “Height Control Operation Test (Active Test)” at Section 6 on Page 5 of the attachment -- Special Service Tool SST 09843-18020 is just a bridging wire -- an unbent paperclip is just as good, works for me. (It can be instructive to run through all of the “Pre-checks” in this attachment -- they originate from the FSM but use DLC1, marked “DIAGNOSTIC” in the engine bay above RHS front wheel arch for easy convenience rather than DLC3 under the dash),

3. Does this “manual Active Test” enable the AHC Pump to operate and raise the vehicle? If “YES”, proceed with normal bleeding using guidance from @suprarx7nut -- and be aware that this may (almost certainly will) require persistent, repetitive bleeding efforts (not a once-off) if air is now disseminated throughout the AHC system,

4. If “NO”, use a good 10 millimetre wrench and without rounding the nut, release the line from the AHC Pump (visible in your video),

5. Beforehand, place a suitable plastic cup and rags in this position (to stop too much mess being made),

6. Ask an assistant to briefly run AHC Pump while you observe discharge -- looking for a strong stream, not a dribble -- the purposes are (i) to ensure that the gear pump itself is ‘primed’ meaning full of fluid, and, (ii) to understand whether it seems likely that there is a partial blockage within the actual pump itself, meaning the tiny strainers, particularly the inlet strainer, within the AHC Pump sub-assembly 48901-60010,

7. If flow is a good clear stream, then persist with bleeding efforts as already described above,

8. If AHC Fluid in the tank is clear but the pump discharge is ‘frothy’, then suspect air entrainment caused by partial blockage in the strainers in the pump resulting in air being ‘sucked’ past the seals in the pump, and/or,

9. If the flow is poor, consider investigating possible full or partial blockage of the strainers in the pump,

10. Pump removal and dis-assembly is described well enough at Post #25 in this thread: AHC Time LO to N, N to HI, LO to HI - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ahc-time-lo-to-n-n-to-hi-lo-to-hi.1303123/page-2#post-14849640 and in the links and attachments within this post.

Personally, after becoming convinced that bleeding had been done well enough, the next suspicion would be possible air entrainment at the AHC Pump -- either at the seals between (1) the AHC Tank and the AHC Pump, or, (2) at the seal on the tiny "driveshaft" which connects the motor and the pump, or, (3) other seals within the pump, or less likely, (4) the large O-ring which seals the outer pumpcase external to the actual pump sub-assembly itself.

The likelihood of air entrainment may increase with the age of the AHC Pump and increasing likelihood as time passes of partial blockage of the tiny Inlet strainer or the bypass strainer inside the actual AHC Pump sub-assembly. In turn, this may mean that the AHC Pump creates enough negative pressure (suction) to induce air ingress. Cavitation also may occur -- this is different to aeration -- but the niceties are unhelpful, both effects are unwanted. Both effects are noisy -- so unusual pump noise is a clue.

Again a personal view -- 15 years is a long enough life expectation for an AHC Pump and if the pump is in doubt I would replace the following as part of basic upkeep of the system if original equipment is still in place.

48901-60010 – AHC Pump sub-assembly (and maybe the whole works 48910-60012 -- but this is expensive!!)
90311-10001 - oil seal between AHC Pump and Motor
90301-70003 – large O-ring for AHC Pump,
90301-06012 – small O-ring for AHC Pump,
47255-60010 – grommet between AHC Tank and AHC Pump,
49189-60010 – replacement bleeder valves (5 required),
49177-60010 – replacement bleeder caps (5 required),

I would avoid used replacements of AHC Pump sub-assembly 48901-60010 of unknown provenance and condition, given the IMPEX new pump price is about USD140 delivered to USA -- why do the work and still take the risk on another "old" and almost certainly worn AHC Pump -- especially if it has been opened and reassembled incorrectly, as is so easily done?

It is possible to remove the AHC Pump sub-assembly, extract the strainers and and clean everything -- but does it make sense to re-install a 15 to 23 years old AHC Pump?
 

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Thanks AHC god @IndroCruise , this is awesome info! I'm guessing it's highly unlikely there's a blockage downstream of the pump assembly? I had just ordered a new pump assembly and will add those other parts you recommend, like you say - if I'm going in there I may as well change it out on a 2006 195k mile rig.

One question - in normal operation, when you bleed the accumulator should you notice a corresponding decrease in the reservoir level or are the two decoupled and what you bleed comes from the pressure on the system side (and hence the car drops).

Finally - when installing the new dry pump with loaded reservoir, is there anything that needs to be done to "prime" the pump or is that not required with a new one?
 
Thanks AHC god @IndroCruise , this is awesome info! I'm guessing it's highly unlikely there's a blockage downstream of the pump assembly? I had just ordered a new pump assembly and will add those other parts you recommend, like you say - if I'm going in there I may as well change it out on a 2006 195k mile rig.

One question - in normal operation, when you bleed the accumulator should you notice a corresponding decrease in the reservoir level or are the two decoupled and what you bleed comes from the pressure on the system side (and hence the car drops).

Finally - when installing the new dry pump with loaded reservoir, is there anything that needs to be done to "prime" the pump or is that not required with a new one?

Good questions -- here are some long detailed answers -- but nothing god-like here, just a few technicalities and opinions ....

1. Is it likely that there can be a blockage downstream of the pump assembly?

This is possible -- but make your own judgement about likelihood.

For example, it is easy to imagine this problem occurring
  • if the AHC system has been infected by the batch AHC Fluid containing ‘gel’ (seems mainly to have been related to batches of the 08886-81221 AHC Fluid in one-litre plastic bottles in the US market in 2021/2022), and,
  • somehow, albeit unlikely, this gel-infected fluid has found its way through the two strainers inside the AHC Pump sub-assembly, and also,
  • after that, this gel-infected fluid has passed through the single strainer inside the Return Valve.
If this could happen, it would cause all kinds of downstream grief at the various orifices, valves and tiny pathways within the components of the AHC system. This downstream passage of 'gel' seems unlikely. However, 'gel' causing blockage of the strainers inside the AHC Pump, particularly the intake strainer, is highly likely -- and such blockages will cause other serious problems as discussed in Post #7.

Poor hydraulic hygiene has a more likely effect --
  • where AHC Fluid has not been changed at least as often as set out the Owner’s Manual (every 6 years or 60,000 miles -- and preferably twice as frequently if system longevity is important), and,
  • old AHC Fluid is carrying an ever-increasing build-up of oxidation, detritus and sludge throughout the AHC system.
However, an even more common issue is air trapped in the downstream pipework and/or in the body of the ‘shock absorbers’ (which can never be fully flushed while in place on the vehicle -- piston does not and must not travel full length).

Suggest review the hydraulic circuits under various conditions -- see last few pages of the attachment -- also suggest review the descriptions of how the individual components and the whole system is designed to operate.

One of the main points is that the Levelling Valves (in the Control Valve Assembly) are “normally closed” -- this means that
  • for most of the time in normal operation, the fluid downstream of these valves cannot move far, unless and until the ECU causes the Levelling Valves to open to allow the AHC Pump (not the Height Control Accumulator) make a small height auto-levelling adjustment, or,
  • the driver operates the height switch on the centre console,
  • there can be some side-to-side movement of fluid (but not front-to-rear and nor rear-to-front movement) because the Gate Valves (also in the Control Valve Assembly) are “normally open”, except during turns at speed when the ECU causes the Gate Valves to close.
The result of all of those details is that when the AHC system has been disrupted for change-out of major parts, there will be a lot of air to evacuate -- and it may be widely distributed around the AHC system.

It also happens that when aerated AHC Fluid collects in the AHC Tank and the AHC system is in operation
  • the AHC Pump then sends this air-polluted AHC Fluid directly to the Height Control Accumulator,
  • in turn the Height Control Accumulators sends this fluid all around the system at the next raise, “LO” to “N”, or, “N” to “HI”, and,
  • the AHC Pump also sends AHC Fluid all around the system when it is called on to complete a raise or auto-level the vehicle.
Suggest think of this air not as a huge “bubble” along a pipe but as hydraulic fluid (which actually is a light mineral oil with a few added modifiers) and in which air (oxygen and nitrogen) are entrained or dissolved under high pressure and which emerges as fine bubbles when the containing pressure is released -- visible in the receptacle used when bleeding -- and also may be visible in the AHC Tank when the AHC Fluid returns there. This air will release to atmosphere – but very s-l-o-w-l-y!!

The consequence is that bleeding air from an air-polluted AHC system can require multple efforts and repetitive persistence.

The moral of this part of the story is that in AHC diagnosis, before considering more complex problems and solutions ….
  • be sure that air is cleared out of the AHC system with persistent multiple bleeding efforts if necessary, and,
  • be aware that if old and failing ‘globe’ membrane(s) are slowly but perceptibly leaking nitrogen, then no amount of bleeding will solve the problem until the defective ‘globe’ or ‘globes’ are replaced, or have completely emptied their nitrogen charge into the AHC Fluid,
  • at this time it will appear that AHC Fluid has been ‘lost’ because the fluid has now taken over the volume in the ‘globe’ formerly occupied by nitrogen,
  • then there will be a very rough springy ride with minimal damping and the “HI/LO Test” of graduation differences at the AHC Tank will give a very poor result).

2. In normal operation, when you bleed the Height Control Accumulator should you notice a corresponding decrease in the reservoir level or are the two decoupled and what you bleed comes from the pressure on the system side (and hence the car drops)?

The Height Control Accumulator has only one function -- to speed up the raise of the vehicle when the driver uses the console switch to move from “LO” to “N”, or, “N” to “HI”.

The Height Control Accumulator is otherwise inactive. It has no role in the “normal running operation” of the vehicle suspension:

When bleeding the Height Control Accumulator correctly with the engine “OFF”, @PADDO advised long ago that around 300 millilitres (~0.6 pints) of AHC Fluid should be released. In this case
  • the fluid is forced out by nitrogen pressure behind the piston in the Height Control Accumulator,
  • the vehicle does not drop because the Levelling Valves are not opened with the engine and AHC system “OFF”,
  • If nothing come out, then it means that nothing was in there.
So that tests the assumptions that

(i) the Height Control Accumulator is in healthy condition and its solenoid valve and harness are healthy all the way back to the ECU via the BI1 connector in the LHS Rear quarter panel, and,

(ii) that the Height Control Accumulator as been re-charged correctly in sequence by the AHC Pump, as directed by the ECU, after a prior raise.

If bleeding the Height Control Accumulator incorrectly with the engine “ON”, then
  • the ECU may determine that it should be causing the AHC Pump to attempt to re-charge the Height Control Accumulator and/or,
  • attempt to raise the vehicle,
  • if so, the ECU then would open the solenoid valve at the front of the Height Control Accumulator,
  • AHC Fluid from the AHC Pump would then flow through the solenoid valve and immediately out through the bleeder valve,
  • a hydraulic ‘short circuit’ to atmosphere is created!

If the ECU does cause the Levelling Valves to open, then the vehicle could drop.

One or other fault condition (DTC) is likely, and a ‘fail safe function’ would act to protect the system and the vehicle by stopping the action. The Height Control Accumulator would not be re-charged.

If it works, this approach may be an indirect way of testing the flow from the AHC Pump!!

3. When installing the new dry pump with loaded reservoir, is there anything that needs to be done to "prime" the pump or is that not required with a new one?

When replacing or disrupting the AHC Pump in any way that causes it to lose ‘prime’, the pressure sensor and the ECU will
  • detect and act on low pressure and related fault conditions,
  • at least one or both of DTC C1751 and DTC C1762 and possibly other DTC's,
  • the AHC Pump will stop.
The acknowledged method to re-start the AHC Pump is a brief and careful operation of the “Active Test” -- either via Techstream or using the “manual Active Test” method described in my previous post #7 in this thread.

Some prefer to “inch” the Pump repeatedly against the fault condition, causing it to start, then be stopped by the fault, then repeat the start/stop until the AHC Pump continues to run.

Sometimes, it may be suffiicient just to let the AHC Fluid in the AHC Tank take its time to percolate down and fill the AHC Pump.

Meanwhile, suggest that it is worthwhile to read up on AHC Diagnostics in an LX470 Factory Service Manual. If that is not available, the relevant information is the same as for LC100 and will be found at:

LC100 Workshop Manual - https://lc100e.github.io/
Scroll down the index panel on the LHS of the opening screen:
+ Repair Manual
+ DIAGNOSTICS
+ ACTIVE HEIGHT CONTROL SUSPENSION & SKYHOOK TEMS

Suggest read from the start of this section. The different faults are described, including the precisely specified fault conditions, any ‘fail safe function’ arising from the fault and what that looks like in terms of symptoms, as well as relevant test methods and diagnosis decision trees.

Techstream is vital -- and so is equally attentive observation of the physical symptoms and vehicle behaviour-- both are combined for good diagnosis.
 

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Thanks @IndroCruise, this is turning in to another treasure trove thread! I managed to get Techstream up and running this evening and saw two codes on my AHC - C1751 (Continuous Current to Compressor Motor) and C1762 (Abnormal Oil Pressure for Pump) with Data List screen attached. I have a feeling there is something plugging up my pump so I think I'm going to wait to replace it before trying the system again in case I push something through that causes more problems.

I did have perhaps one last question that I couldn't find a good answer to. I have two front actuators arriving from McGeorge this week, figured it was almost the same amount of money to order new ones versus replacing the bushings (plus all the effort). What is the recommended procedure for replacing these actuators? I've heard people mention compressing them and then sucking up AHC fluid by opening them up before installing on the car. As you mentioned earlier, it seems like air might have a hard time finding its way out otherwise...

Will report back on how I get on when the new pump arrives!

Screenshot 2023-02-27 at 8.33.54 PM.webp
 
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Thanks @IndroCruise, this is turning in to another treasure trove thread! I managed to get Techstream up and running this evening and saw two codes on my AHC - C1751 (Continuous Current to Compressor Motor) and C1762 (Abnormal Oil Pressure for Pump) with Data List screen attached. I have a feeling there is something plugging up my pump so I think I'm going to wait to replace it before trying the system again in case I push something through that causes more problems.

I did have perhaps one last question that I couldn't find a good answer to. I have two front actuators arriving from McGeorge this week, figured it was almost the same amount of money to order new ones versus replacing the bushings (plus all the effort). What is the recommended procedure for replacing these actuators? I've heard people mention compressing them and then sucking up AHC fluid by opening them up before installing on the car. As you mentioned earlier, it seems like air might have a hard time finding its way out otherwise...

Will report back on how I get on when the new pump arrives!

View attachment 3260376
Note: Late edit added far below giving more details on AHC Pump removal and AHC Pump internals:

So, DTC C1751 and DTC C1762 have emerged. Not surprising, predicted in Post #9.

Suggest that it is always important to read ALL of the full, longhand description of the fault condition in the AHC Diagnostics section of the FSM, and not rely only on the summary produced by Techstream – therefore suggest go to the Diagnostics section at the on-line reference given near the end of Post #9 this thread and scroll down to C1751 and separately to C1762.

The first pages of each item show the following detail:

AHC - C1762 Highlighted.jpg


AHC - C1751 highlighted.jpg


DTC C1751 is arising because the vehicle has not been raised within the prescribed time. The FSM offers some suggested causes. Note also the ‘fail safe function’ enforced by the ECU in this case.

DTC C1762 is arising because of low delivery pressure (less than 0.5 Mpa) as detected by the Pressure Sensor which reads the pressure on the Discharge side of the AHC Pump. In this situation, the ECU protects the AHC Pump by shutting it down very quickly -- after only 0.6 seconds. Note again the ‘fail safe function’ enforced by the ECU in this case.

When these two DTC’s occur together, it is telling you that
  • insufficient AHC Fluid is entering the Intake side of AHC Pump, and so,
  • there is insufficient delivery volume and pressure on the Discharge side of the AHC Pump (DTC 1762), and so,
  • the vehicle does not raise (DTC C1751), and,
  • the ECU has enforced the 'fail safe function' prohibiting AHC and TEMS operation.
There are two possible causes of this situation:

Alternative 1: AHC Fluid IS NOT feeding through from the AHC Tank to the AHC Pump. The procedure for re-starting the AHC Pump also is described in the DTC 1762 article -- extracted below. This is basically the “Active Test” procedure mentioned in the attachment at Post #7 this thread, except that the method below uses DLC3 under the dash rather than DLC1 in the engine bay as described in the Post #7 attachment. Either method will do, but in both cases the procedure must be followed exactly. This a common problem after disrupting the AHC system to install new parts, or after a bleeding error which accidentally has allowed air to enter the AHC Pump. The ‘fix’ is simple and obvious -- and so this is always the first thing to do when C1751 and C1762 are encountered. The point is that there is no satisfaction in installing a new AHC Pump sub-assembly and then find that this was the simple cause of the problem. It is also worthwhile confirming or eliminating this cause before moving on to other possible issues.

C1762 Bleed Procedure.jpg


Some IH8MUD Members are sceptical about using an unbent paperclip (!) in this procedure instead of Toyota/Lexus Special Service Tool SST 09843-18040. The alternative is to purchase the Real Deal from a Dealer, or as shown here from Partsouq. (I will be staying with the paperclip costing a fraction of a cent -- or something other basic connector which deals with about 4.5 volts DC. This is all that is required):

SST 09843-18040.jpg


Alternative 2: AHC Fluid IS feeding through from the AHC Tank to the AHC Pump. However, the Inlet strainer within the actual AHC Pump sub-assembly is wholly or partially blocked. AHC Fluid IS NOT passing through the AHC Pump and there is insufficient volume and pressure delivered by this tiny gear pump. If confident that the pump actually is properly ‘primed’, then a simple preliminary test is to unscrew the delivery line at the pump, operate the pump and inspect the delivery flow, as previously described. The Pump can be dis-assembled and the strainers and can be extracted and cleaned as described in various detailed posts elsewhere on IH8MUD – see for example the explanation and many pictures at the last part of the long Post #16 at this link: RTH needed - seemingly air in AHC, car in Low, stuck in Patagonia - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rth-needed-seemingly-air-in-ahc-car-in-low-stuck-in-patagonia.1300130/#post-14725242. Personally, having done this once, I see little point re-installing a worn 15 to 23 year old AHC Pump except in a breakdown situation, and no point in installing a second-hand AHC Pump unless certain that it is in as-new condition and that it has been correctly assembled as depicted in the above Post.

As mentioned previously, due to the positions of the robust fine internal AHC Fluid strainers, a blockage downstream of the AHC Pump might be possible but is far less likely than causes (1) and (2) above.

Air trapped down stream is a common problem and requires persistent bleeding to clear. Nitrogen leaking through failing membranes into AHC Fluid cannot be overcome by bleeding -- change-out of 'globes' is necessary.

AHC - Strainer Locations.jpg


On the separate question on “front actuators” and bushings -- I think you mean the Front ‘shock absorbers’ and bushings -- and not the Damping Force Control Actuators to which the ‘globes’ are attached????

If so, helpful guidance will be found at the following thread -- and yes, operate the 'shock absorber' like a syringe to fill with as much AHC Fluid as possible before installing. There will be a mess whatever you do, so prepare for it.

Also be aware that unless AHC 'shock absorbers' (which really are only hydraulic struts in the AHC system) have been destroyed by rust or really major AHC Fluid leaks indicating seal failure, they will probably last for the life of the vehicle. They do not wear in the same manner as actual conventional shock absorbers. However, unlike conventional shock absorbers, the so-called AHC 'shock absorbers' always carry part of the weight of the vehicle in addition to whatever damping force is arises during travel. Consequently, the bushings and the upper cushions on AHC 'shock absorbers' are punished more heavily than similar parts on a conventional suspension.

Front AHC shock bushing and cushion replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-ahc-shock-bushing-and-cushion-replacement.1221355/

Late edit added giving more details on AHC Pump removal and AHC Pump internals:

If not seen before, the threads below may be worth a read. The first one starts with a description with pictures by @BullElk, showing the removal of the AHC Pump at Posts #1 and #2 ….

AHC pump removal with pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ahc-pump-removal-with-pics.1227554/#post-14710306

Then within the same thread, a skim through Post #10 through Post #15 will provide more pics and explanations of the actual pump internals -- and in particular, the importance of correctly positioning the pressure-relieving “notch” or “slot” machined into one of the AHC Pump gearcases.

A few more pics by @BullElk at Post #67 and additional pics by me at Posts #69 and #70 in another thread (below) show what the internals of the actual AHC Pump sub-assembly 48901-60010 look like when it is extracted from the overall assembly 48910-60012 ….

AHC pump out? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ahc-pump-out.1226629/page-4#post-13401098
 
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Post #11 has been edited and updated with further information and pictures .....
 
Hi @IndroCruise - thanks again for your help. I managed to get the LX back to normal operating condition today! :)

I changed out my front shocks and used your method of sucking up AHC fluid with them before installation. Surprisingly my old lower bushings weren't too bad, only the upper cushions were shot and the new shocks come with those but not the metal hardware (rings) that I had to separate from the old bushings and reuse.

Replacing the o-rings inside the pressure connector was a bit daunting but ended up being fairly easy. A dental pick I had turned out to be the perfect tool - removed the rubber o-ring furthest in, then the "backup ring" that is some kind of pliable material that isn't actually continuous, allowing it to come out easily. It's a tight fit putting it back in but the o-ring stayed in position allowing the pliable backup ring to slide in.

I replaced my AHC pump for new, the old one didn't look too bad - just a thin black film over everything. I tried to clean the reservoir using tumbling stainless steel bearings and soapy water, it got most of the black residue.

Put it all back together today - initially nothing happened. I put it in to Active Test mode successfully but again, nothing seemed to happen - certainly no car movement but I realized that the pump is now very quiet. After exiting Active Test, the AHC miraculously came back to life and the car lifted. I bled the system three times, and surprisingly minimal air came out and very clean looking fluid.

Took it out for a drive and it rides very smooth, a definite improvement although the previously globes pass the pencil test (8 graduations). The pressures don't look too bad on Techstream, next job - baselining using the @suprarx7nut method. Will have my old shocks and AHC pump up for grabs if anyone is interested.

Thanks again for your help!

PXL_20230307_175851394.webp


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PXL_20230308_041039128.webp


PXL_20230305_050516736.webp


PXL_20230305_051016648.webp
 
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Hi @IndroCruise - thanks again for your help. I managed to get the LX back to normal operating condition today! :)

I changed out my front shocks and used your method of sucking up AHC fluid with them before installation. Surprisingly my old lower bushings weren't too bad, only the upper cushions were shot and the new shocks come with those but not the metal hardware (rings) that I had to separate from the old bushings and reuse.

Replacing the o-rings inside the pressure connector was a bit daunting but ended up being fairly easy. A dental pick I had turned out to be the perfect tool - removed the rubber o-ring furthest in, then the "backup ring" that is some kind of pliable material that isn't actually continuous, allowing it to come out easily. It's a tight fit putting it back in but the o-ring stayed in position allowing the pliable backup ring to slide in.

I replaced my AHC pump for new, the old one didn't look too bad - just a thin black film over everything. I tried to clean the reservoir using tumbling stainless steel bearings and soapy water, it got most of the black residue.

Put it all back together today - initially nothing happened. I put it in to Active Test mode successfully but again, nothing seemed to happen - certainly no car movement but I realized that the pump is now very quiet. After exiting Active Test, the AHC miraculously came back to life and the car lifted. I bled the system three times, and surprisingly minimal air came out and very clean looking fluid.

Took it out for a drive and it rides very smooth, a definite improvement although the previously globes pass the pencil test (8 graduations). The pressures don't look too bad on Techstream, next job - baselining using the @suprarx7nut method. Will have my old shocks and AHC pump up for grabs if anyone is interested.

Thanks again for your help!

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Congratulations on your perseverance, the satisfying result and the excellent pictures provided!!

Suggest before doing anything else, cross-level the Front of the vehicle using torsion bar adjusters with engine OFF to ensure equal loading of Front torsion bars and eliminate Left-Right ‘lean’ (FSM mentions tolerance of +/- 10mm).

Then measure the hub-to-fender distances -- the ‘ride height’ -- after driving, stopped on a level surface, engine still running and suspension settled -- usually recommended as 19.75 inches Front and 20.50 inches Rear on a stock vehicle. However, these can be your choice -- adjustable using Height Control Sensor adjusters. However, be aware that more ‘ride height’ -- the so-called ‘sensor lift’ -- means less spring/torsionbar load, more AHC load, which requires increased AHC pressures. If a ‘sensor lift’ is preferred, then compensate AHC pressures with torsion bar adjustment and revised rear spring choices to transfer weight away from the AHC system back to the torsion bars and springs.

When ‘ride heights’ are settled, then (and only then) it is the correct point in the AHC tuning process to check AHC pressures.

When ‘ride heights’ and AHC pressures are within FSM-specified ranges, then (and only then) it is the correct point in the AHC tuning process to check overall ‘globe’ condition (by measuring AHC Fluid displacement at the AHC Tank between “HI” and “LO” heights). Otherwise this test is not comparable with FSM numbers.

If 8 graduations have been observed under standard conditions, then there is some -- but not much -- life left in the ‘globes’. Ride quality will be starting to deteriorate. This may be a good time to buy a set of ‘globes’ in readiness for change-out when ride quality becomes unacceptable -- suggest check IMPEX and Partsouq pricing.

Note that correct AHC pressures by themselves tell nothing about the condition of the ‘globes’.

Here are some notes on some of the background issues encountered:

Back-up rings -- these usually are a hard material which the designer has placed next to the o-ring to prevent extrusion under pressure of the soft o-ring into the small gap between mating surfaces. The concern is that extrusion may lead to premature failure of the o-ring seal. The back-up ring is a brittle material and has an angled split to make it easier (theoretically!!) to instal and remove. When in place under pressure, the angled split closes on itself. The function of the back-up ring in supporting the o-ring is important -- best that back-up rings be in good condition. The pic below shows an example of a back-up ring on a ‘globe’.

Sludge in the outer case of the AHC Pump -- the fluid is this void space is connected directly to the AHC Tank and is at atmospheric pressure (like the fluid in the AHC Tank) except when the vehicle is being lowered and AHC Fluid flows quickly and directly back to the AHC Tank. Returning fluid does not flow through the actual AHC Pump sub-assembly 48901-60010. This means that the pump outer case is a fairly quiet spot for AHC Fluid to settle and for sludge to build up, especially when the AHC Fluid is changed infrequently and/or the vehicle is not raised and lowered very often. Your pump outer case seems to have been remarkably clean!!

The AHC Pump -- if you are feeling inquisitive about how things work, suggest remove the remaining two Allen head bolts on the old Pump sub-assembly and disassemble the pump. This provides an opportunity to view the internal strainers, particularly the often problematic Inlet strainer which is a common blockage point.

Meanwhile, hope all goes well!!

AHC - Pump Arrangement and Fluid Flow.jpg


AHC - Pump Internal Operation.jpg


AHC - Pump Inlet Strainer 2.jpg


AHC Pump - Strainers by Zel.jpg


AHC - Globe with O-ring and Backup Ring.jpg
 
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Hi @IndroCruise - thanks again for your help. I managed to get the LX back to normal operating condition today! :)

I changed out my front shocks and used your method of sucking up AHC fluid with them before installation. Surprisingly my old lower bushings weren't too bad, only the upper cushions were shot and the new shocks come with those but not the metal hardware (rings) that I had to separate from the old bushings and reuse.

Replacing the o-rings inside the pressure connector was a bit daunting but ended up being fairly easy. A dental pick I had turned out to be the perfect tool - removed the rubber o-ring furthest in, then the "backup ring" that is some kind of pliable material that isn't actually continuous, allowing it to come out easily. It's a tight fit putting it back in but the o-ring stayed in position allowing the pliable backup ring to slide in.

I replaced my AHC pump for new, the old one didn't look too bad - just a thin black film over everything. I tried to clean the reservoir using tumbling stainless steel bearings and soapy water, it got most of the black residue.

Put it all back together today - initially nothing happened. I put it in to Active Test mode successfully but again, nothing seemed to happen - certainly no car movement but I realized that the pump is now very quiet. After exiting Active Test, the AHC miraculously came back to life and the car lifted. I bled the system three times, and surprisingly minimal air came out and very clean looking fluid.

Took it out for a drive and it rides very smooth, a definite improvement although the previously globes pass the pencil test (8 graduations). The pressures don't look too bad on Techstream, next job - baselining using the @suprarx7nut method. Will have my old shocks and AHC pump up for grabs if anyone is interested.

Thanks again for your help!

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Nice!

As Indro mentions, the globes are toast at 8 grads. You'll notice an improvement (perhaps small) by changing those out. New ones should be ~14 grads and the system moves roughly 4 just to get teh car up and down. So new globes "absorb" ~10 grads of fluid (14-4). Yours are doing 4 (8-4). You've got only 40% of the intended damping effect available. That's all super "napkin math", but hopefully provides some numeric info to help you visualize the wear.

The measured pressures tell you how much weight the hydraulics are attempting to carry. They tell you nothing about the globes (which is confusing to many because the globes are pressurized as well).
 
Thanks guys! Actually I did replace them already (Impex, $500 all in, 2wks), that's actually what led to my pump stopping working - I replaced them and bled the system a bit too dry! Was already planning on replacing the shocks later but was waiting on them from McGeorge.

Next up - cross leveling and going through your AHC sheet @suprarx7nut ... the ride quality is already significantly improved :) I also got some Toyota LC100 AHC rear springs from McGeorge - it seems these might actually be different to the LX springs but I'll give them a try... I'm planning on keeping the rig stock for now!
 
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