Getting started first, is good idea as will help with other inspections. I've yet to find one I could not get running, these are tanks.
Before buying parts, I suggest you look at your end game here.
Will this be for resale, what's a reasonable profit for your time.
Will you repair for a DD.
Will you build as off road beast.
Start by running VIN at mylexus & car fax. Look for maintenance records and accidents. This is normal pre purchase diligence. Millage needs to be determined as it will greatly effect resale value. Come up with market valve as if in good condition. The subtract for cost to get to good condition.
For clean resale or clean DD; I see body damage that will bite you in the wallet big time. If you don't have body & paint tools, you may be wise to find a 98-02 green donor. To have Body shop fix front end and rear hatch, I'd estimate between $4 and $6K depending on what is actually damaged and level of quality you'd like. Then there is the windshield rust issue most all have. Look for paint bubbles around wind shield. At minimum make sure water is not getting in around windshield, this plays havoc with electronics
Second look for rust in floorboard, frame and/or body. This can be deal killer as it would limit resale value.
Interior, does it need cleaning or replacement of leather skins, carpet, console, door panels, dash, steering wheel, button & switch.
Third look at mechanical. These things are tanks and hard to kill. Often $800 to $1,800 can bring to safe, reliable and ready to drive coast to coast with that new car handling feel.
I start by pulling under shielding & supporting hood open, then carefully and thoroughly photographing before cleaning. This can give you a good tool in hunt for issues, like leaks. Don't forget to photo head gasket area from underside and all seal points' end to end. Then power wash, retake pictures and study.
- Proper maintenance calls for greasing lube points every 5K with oil change. Look above propeller shaft & spider joint, you should see lots of old caked on grease slung on.
- Inspect propeller shafts & spider joints.
- Inspect oil.
- Inspect air filer.
- Inspect transmission fluid.
- Inspect drive belt, pulleys, fan bracket and fan clutch.
- PCV and all vacuum hoses.
- Pull time belt #1 cover to inspect belt.
- Inspect spark plugs.
- Compression test.
- Inspect heater & coolant hoses for swelling, which may be indicate over heating.
- Coolant pressure test.
- Inspect radiator.
- Inspect fuse.
- Inspect master of brakes.
- Inspect rotors & pads
- Inspect brake lines.
- Inspect front drive shafts
- Inspect ball joint & TRE.
- Inspect steering rack for leaks. Then watch steering rack for movement as steering wheel is turned left to right slightly.
- Pull grease cap off front wheel hubs. Inspect for rotational play axle to hub flange, spec is zero.
- Inspect weep holes front and rear of engine.
- Oil pan & transmission pan.
- Inspect head gasket.
- Inspect CATs
- Exhaust system
- Inspect both differentials & transfer case gear boxes for leaks & lube for levels.
- Work your way from end to end engine and drive train looking for leaks, discoloration, cracks in sensor housing, missing seals etc...
- Inspect shocks & ACH systems for damage or leaks.
- Inspect all suspension bushing.
- Inspect frame & underbody for unusual bends & rust.
- Inspect, inspect, inspect then inspect some more.
Now run cost, if it looks like a possible worth wild project, then start with the potentially most expensive mechanical repair. Determine what it is for sure that is needed, and how to repair. Often something like brakes system may appear to be $3,000 master, when only a few $$ in seals is all that's needed. Without a donor vehicle, rebuilding components is a must to keeping cost down.
You're going to become a 100 series expert by the time you're done.
Have fun, but don't put in more $ than 90% what a clean 2000 well maintained could be bought for today.
