Advice, I want a PIG!

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Jun 12, 2009
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Location
Durango, CO
So, I spent the last 18 months getting hooked on restoring a 75 FJ40 and I've grown fond of the 55.

Give me some advice based on these pictures. I can MIG weld and have replaced many panels sections on my 40 so I'm not afraid of cutting things into pieces.

The fender sections don't bother me on this once but I'm really concerned about the roof. Given the scarcity of donors and replacement panels what's involved in roof repair and what would be your main worries?

Is my assumption okay that I can cut out sections and replace them with new sheet metal fairly easily?



Any thoughts on a price you'd pay? It supposedly runs well and has new brakes, plug wires and associated stuff.
DS Rear Roof.webp
DS Rocker.webp
Rear Roof Close.webp
 
roof rot yuk.

if I was to do it again( and i probably will:rolleyes:) i would look for the most rust free 55 i could find. I wouldnt care if it runs steers or stops. that s*** is easy to fix.

ive said it before and ill say it again... rust will consume your life and eat your soul

Dan:cool:
 
<I can MIG weld>

I'd trim the whole base of the body up a few inches to where it's level & most of the rust is eliminated. Then, you can add sliders & wrap around bumpers which takes care of finishing off that part. Seal off & paint the underside as needed. As for the roof, if your headliner is in good shape, I'd wire wheel the pin holes, fiber fill & paint. If you need a new headliner, then cut & reweld patches. On the value, if it's all stock, the frame is really good, straight body & everything works, I'd guestimate around $1,500 - $2K.
 
You can fix that roof line with no problems if you know what your doing. Just take your time only cut out what you replace. just replace the rocker with some two by four square tubing.
 
run away, not worth the time, yes you could fix what you see, but my guess is there is alot more hiding, just waiting to make an appearance. find a better candidate.
 
That roof doesn't look too bad, and rockers are easy to fix.
 
Whats your skill level? You know what it is. If your not ready for this kind of project leave it alone. If your getting a great deal on it pick it up for parts.

Skills, I'm not worried about after doing a frame-off resto-mod of my 40. I've done backyard body work and welding for years.

I'm mainly worried about what to expect under this all. I'm guessing to really make sure this thing lasts for a while and doesn't continue to rust, I'd have to remove the top skin and attack the pillars and associated framing since they'll likely be rusted as well. I guess anything can be fixed with enough time and effort.

As for a good deal, I'm not sure. I'm looking for insights. $1300-1600 with factory A/C. It's a 76 so it's got the more desired disc brakes and 4-speed.
 
There a gap between the outer edge of the roof support and the top itself. once you remove the headliner it will be exposed. I pumped rust converter into that gap in copious amounts and only removed the rusted tru portions of the top. It stoped the rust dead in its tracks. Pay close attn to the drip lip. It ofter gets small cracks in the seen sealer and allows water in between the two layer that join together in the channel. It is best to just grind out all the old seem sealer and replace it with a bead of new fresh seem sealer to keep water out all together. That should keep it from being a reoccuring problem.

I also welded in much ticker metal and joined it to the inner supports this allowed me to fix it to the sliders on the roof line. Check out mu album
18068_1198986588985_1658131137_576997_3869720_n.webp
18068_1198989909068_1658131137_577006_4597424_n.webp
 
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