adjusting valves
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I have always used these directions and done all the intake then the exhaust. http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/valves.html
i do it runing ands i think that its the best way to do it. I do two at a time. Meaning i unlock two and start her up after i adj. i turn her off and tighten the lockes back down. it takes around 1/2 hr do do the whole thing and she runs like a top.
I take exception with Morgan's article. It is true, you don't necessarily adjust the valves with the engine running, but the engine manual is explicit saying you CHECK the gaps with the engine running. You will get better results that way, and you don't have to worry about the cycle stage, while checking. (Obviously, you do have to have it correct while making the adjustment.)
Yes, they are numbered from front to back. The pattern is EIIE EIIE EIIE where exhaust is E and intake is I.
Yes, they are numbered from front to back. The pattern is EIIE EIIE EIIE where exhaust is E and intake is I.
Valve adjustment isn't rocket science and there are several ways to do it that are all good. Pick the one you like best. I prefer to check them running, since it is fast and accurate and it is the way that Toyota says to do it.
Note that each valve spends nearly 3/4 of its time seated and you can check it any time its lifter is off the cam. There is nothing magic about checking them at TDC.
Note that each valve spends nearly 3/4 of its time seated and you can check it any time its lifter is off the cam. There is nothing magic about checking them at TDC.
Here's the method I use:
Valve Adjustment – F/2F/3F-E
By Scott Critchfield
Valve adjustment is a critical part of Toyota 1F, 2F, and 3F-E engine maintenance that is commonly overlooked. This procedure is very simple, requires only the most basic of tools, and will greatly enhance the performance and longevity of your Land Cruiser.
There are many schools of thought on how to perform a valve adjustment on an F-series engine. Some prefer to adjust six valves with the camshaft at TDC, and the other six with the camshaft at BDC. Some prefer to perform valve adjustment with the engine running.
Outlined below is the method of adjusting the valves one at a time. While a bit more time consuming, I have found this method to be the most accurate and effective method of being absolutely positive that the valves are properly adjusted.
Tools Required
* Wrenches – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
* Ratchet, Sockets – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
* Feeler Gauges - .008”, .014”
* Medium length slotted screwdriver
* Remote starter switch, or 4’ length of wire w/ standard female blade connector on one end
Instructions
1.) Thoroughly warm up the engine; idling for ten minutes won’t do it. Drive your Land Cruiser at moderate to high speeds for approx. 3-5 miles, then allow it to idle for another five minutes before proceeding to step #2.
2.) Remove air cleaner housing (1F &2F - FJ40 & FJ60) or intake air snorkel (1F & 2F FJ55 - 3F-E FJ62 & early FJ80); remove valve cover.
3.) Disconnect main lead from starter, and connect remote starter lead or female lead from length of wire to the male pin on the starter solenoid. If an engine tune-up is being performed at the same time, you also have the option of removing all spark plugs and leaving them out, so that the engine may be turned by hand.
4.) Begin adjusting the valves by turning the engine over until the valve opposite the valve being adjusted is open (down). i.e. – draw an imaginary line in the middle of the cylinder head, separating the valves into two groups of six; each valve is the mirror image of the other.
5.) Using the appropriate feeler gauges, screwdriver, and appropriate metric wrench, adjust intake valves to .008”, and exhaust valves to .014”.
6.) When procedure is complete, re-install valve cover with a new gasket and grommets if necessary, taking special care that new gasket does not become dislodged and pinched, as this will cause a severe oil leak, which may lead to engine failure.
Diagram and Example
With the imaginary line in place, turn engine until the valve which is opposite the valve to be adjusted is open (down).
Example: When valve #12 is open (down), adjust valve #1. When valve #1 is open, adjust valve #12. When valve #3 is open, adjust valve #10, and so on.
To perform actual adjustment of a valve, insert the correct feeler gauge between setscrew adjuster and valve stem, and check the actual clearance. Then gently loosen jam nut until the setscrew can be turned. Adjust the setscrew until desired clearance is met, and then gently tighten jam nut while holding setscrew until jam nut is secure.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the setscrew or jam nut. The feeler gauge should move freely between adjuster and valve stem. It is also not uncommon for a valve to be excessively tight, and require loosening in order to achieve the proper clearance.
Valve Clearance, hot
Intake - .008”
Exhaust - .014”
Valve Adjustment – F/2F/3F-E
By Scott Critchfield
Valve adjustment is a critical part of Toyota 1F, 2F, and 3F-E engine maintenance that is commonly overlooked. This procedure is very simple, requires only the most basic of tools, and will greatly enhance the performance and longevity of your Land Cruiser.
There are many schools of thought on how to perform a valve adjustment on an F-series engine. Some prefer to adjust six valves with the camshaft at TDC, and the other six with the camshaft at BDC. Some prefer to perform valve adjustment with the engine running.
Outlined below is the method of adjusting the valves one at a time. While a bit more time consuming, I have found this method to be the most accurate and effective method of being absolutely positive that the valves are properly adjusted.
Tools Required
* Wrenches – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
* Ratchet, Sockets – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
* Feeler Gauges - .008”, .014”
* Medium length slotted screwdriver
* Remote starter switch, or 4’ length of wire w/ standard female blade connector on one end
Instructions
1.) Thoroughly warm up the engine; idling for ten minutes won’t do it. Drive your Land Cruiser at moderate to high speeds for approx. 3-5 miles, then allow it to idle for another five minutes before proceeding to step #2.
2.) Remove air cleaner housing (1F &2F - FJ40 & FJ60) or intake air snorkel (1F & 2F FJ55 - 3F-E FJ62 & early FJ80); remove valve cover.
3.) Disconnect main lead from starter, and connect remote starter lead or female lead from length of wire to the male pin on the starter solenoid. If an engine tune-up is being performed at the same time, you also have the option of removing all spark plugs and leaving them out, so that the engine may be turned by hand.
4.) Begin adjusting the valves by turning the engine over until the valve opposite the valve being adjusted is open (down). i.e. – draw an imaginary line in the middle of the cylinder head, separating the valves into two groups of six; each valve is the mirror image of the other.
5.) Using the appropriate feeler gauges, screwdriver, and appropriate metric wrench, adjust intake valves to .008”, and exhaust valves to .014”.
6.) When procedure is complete, re-install valve cover with a new gasket and grommets if necessary, taking special care that new gasket does not become dislodged and pinched, as this will cause a severe oil leak, which may lead to engine failure.
Diagram and Example
With the imaginary line in place, turn engine until the valve which is opposite the valve to be adjusted is open (down).
Example: When valve #12 is open (down), adjust valve #1. When valve #1 is open, adjust valve #12. When valve #3 is open, adjust valve #10, and so on.
To perform actual adjustment of a valve, insert the correct feeler gauge between setscrew adjuster and valve stem, and check the actual clearance. Then gently loosen jam nut until the setscrew can be turned. Adjust the setscrew until desired clearance is met, and then gently tighten jam nut while holding setscrew until jam nut is secure.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the setscrew or jam nut. The feeler gauge should move freely between adjuster and valve stem. It is also not uncommon for a valve to be excessively tight, and require loosening in order to achieve the proper clearance.
Valve Clearance, hot
Intake - .008”
Exhaust - .014”
I do the runnig check on F/2Fs and on 3FEs I do more or less what e rock listed. I bump the motor with the remote starter then watch as ecah intake opens then as each exhaust opens. Once both are closed I check the gap on both. Pin Head wrote years ago and said it again here, most of the time the valves are closed so just get in the ballpark and you are fine. It takes me more time to get the valve cover off than it does to adj the valves.
I take exception to Morgans' article also...I'm pretty sure it's a 17mm wrench I use on the adjusters. And I use the hand crank to turn the crankshaft, not rocking the vehicle back and forth
Pighead is correct. It is a 17 mm nut on both F135 and F155 engines that you use for the valve lash adjustment (just did this on my 135 the other night). I also like the hand crank for lining up the valve, but you can't use it with the PTO winch on board. 
I consider that the most major design flaw the Toyota engineers came up with for 30 years.
I consider that the most major design flaw the Toyota engineers came up with for 30 years.
1980 and older trucks have 17mm nuts; 1981 and newer have 14, so Pighead and Morgan are both right.
I do mine static, one cylinder at a time, and don't necessarily worry about TDC.
I do mine static, one cylinder at a time, and don't necessarily worry about TDC.
TDC is a reference only. The cam turns on lobes. As long as you are on the downside of the lobe the valve is closed and you can adj it. Just watch the valves and adj them as needed. It is a way simple issue made very hard.
JohnL said:
They should have left the Land Cruiser stamp on it....
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I have done it the way that e rock is suggesting and have been very pleased with the results. Be sure, however, that the engine is warm as Toyota suggests.
Why remove the air cleaner?
gater75 said:
This is the way I started doing it on all the engines I tune. It seems to me the best and most accurate. You know when the opposite valve on the same cylinder is just completly
down(open), then you will absolutely be on the cams base circle for the one your adjusting.
The #1TDC 1i 2e 3i 4e 5i 6e, #6TDC 1e 2i 3e 4i 5e 6i method is one I used for years before because is how Cummins(former employer) said to do it. It works, fast and simple.