Adding a second fuel filter - Diesel

[DrSlug]

Hi guys, I have recently bought one of those Delphi water seperator filters with the glass bowl on the bottom. I've gone to hook it up today and my nosey neighbour came across and asked what I was doing. I was telling him and he said I was doing it all wrong.

Where the fuel line comes from the tank into the engine bay was where I was going to deviate the line to go to the filter, then the output line would be fed into the normal socket that the line would normally go onto - just before the hand priming pump. His 'expert' opinion was that I have to have the filter installed in the circuit after the hand priming pump and before the stock fuel filter.

Is he talking crap? Is there anything wrong with the way I am planning on doing it?

I reckon the guy is a knob, he is always walking over and sticking his beak in where its not wanted.

 

[Kynot62]

Yeah he's a knob. The second filter with water separator actually becomes a prefilter.

I use a Racor with a 30 micron filter as the prefilter and a Wix spin on in the stock location on my 3B, which is a 10 micron filter.

I ran the lines just like you mention, fuel line comes into the engine bay directly into my Racor then feeds the injection pump. No need to mess with the lines once they leave the injection pump.

Tony

 

[DrSlug]

Thanks Tony for that, thought I was on the ball. I'll head back outside when the rain stops and finish the job off, hopefully he comes over again so I can tell him to rack off.

Cheers

 

[bj40green]

Yeah he's a knob. The second filter with water separator actually becomes a prefilter.

I use a Racor with a 30 micron filter as the prefilter and a Wix spin on in the stock location on my 3B, which is a 10 micron filter.

I ran the lines just like you mention, fuel line comes into the engine bay directly into my Racor then feeds the injection pump. No need to mess with the lines once they leave the injection pump.

Tony

X2
I have the same set up (different brand) on my B engine and change the pre filter every year, due to the bad quality of diesel here.

Rudi

 

[Kynot62]

Just mount it to the firewall where it's easy to see. Here's a pic of mine in my 60. It's just above the vacuum tank. Probably have to put yours somewhere else as I do believe your steering column or brake booster is where I put mine. Sorry my steering wheel is on the wrong side....

Tony

 

[DrSlug]

Well I installed it over the weekend, made up a little bracket and it sits well-

Too bad when I was bleeding the system though I busted off the bleeding screw, so I had to do a half arsed "repair" to get the car back on the road so I could get it home from a mates place- found a similar size bolt and jammed it in. Waiting for replacement parts from Toyota Australia now

 

[gerg]

Nice job. Diesel is awsome. Safe enough to run a grounding cable off your fuel filter. I love it!
g

 

[doug720]

Here's another option I used mine. It's a Racor filter/water seperator with priming pump built in. I used the Racor as the primary and the stock Isuzu as the secondary.

You can't keep your diesel fuel too clean and dry IMHO.

Doug

 

[9180ltd]

I have seen fuel filters plumbed as your neighbor mentioned. Hitachi used to do it like that on there EX200-3 excavators. Problem i found was if you had a real bad load of fuel, the primer pump got it first before filtration..... and as some of us know the inlet banjo bolt has a screen in it that can plug up. This leaves most ppl scratching there heads as to why they can not get fuel thru there system even with new filters.

 

[Tapage]

related question .. ( looking for ideas ) I have one of those ..

and in my case it's leaking diesel in the low plastic screw .. I've replaced the lower " o-ring " with other options but no one seems to stop the leak .. I appreciate the advice here ..

 

[VTCDN]

Gents , the fittings with the yellow plastic rings are special that they have a very sharp barb and do NOT require a hose clamp, they sometimes leak from them cutting in. The new filter install has a outlet barb to hose that looks like it's just barely on , looking for hard starts ? and dying while driving later ??

Not trying to be a A$$ , just helping / saying .

VT

 

[Kynot62]

Gents , the fittings with the yellow plastic rings are special that they have a very sharp barb and do NOT require a hose clamp, they sometimes leak from them cutting in. The new filter install has a outlet barb to hose that looks like it's just barely on , looking for hard starts ? and dying while driving later ??

Not trying to be a A$$ , just helping / saying .

VT

Hose clamps on the barbs with the yellow rings is a habit from work. While the clamps are not required elsewhere, on boats they are. In fact most of the time fuel fittings require two hose clamps in a marine application.

Overkill, yes but as long as you don't crank the heck out of them they are just fine. Holds true for most hose clamps, most people get carried away while tightening them.

Tony

 

[Kynot62]

Nice job. Diesel is awsome. Safe enough to run a grounding cable off your fuel filter. I love it!
g

Don't know if you are joking but I would move that ground cable if that was my rig....

Tony

 

[BeratE]

Doug,
Did you choose the 10 or the 30 micron? Is there a disadvantage to using the Racor 10 micron as a primary and then the factory filter (10 micron) as the secondary, or is it just a waste and the primary should be 30 microns?

Here's another option I used mine. It's a Racor filter/water seperator with priming pump built in. I used the Racor as the primary and the stock Isuzu as the secondary.

You can't keep your diesel fuel too clean and dry IMHO.

Doug

 

[VTCDN]

Hose clamps on the barbs with the yellow rings is a habit from work. While the clamps are not required elsewhere, on boats they are. In fact most of the time fuel fittings require two hose clamps in a marine application.

Overkill, yes but as long as you don't crank the heck out of them they are just fine. Holds true for most hose clamps, most people get carried away while tightening them.

Tony

Tony , I knew that you would reply , and exactly as i thought.

I'm 100 % with you.
Many take the clamps to the point of striping -2 , so the clamp is cutting the outer .


Fuel line clamps are more $ but well worth the money.
I buy my clamps Fuel line style from euro / Wurth .


VT

 

[gerg]

Don't know if you are joking but I would move that ground cable if that was my rig....

Tony

My rigs grounds have been covered in oil for the last 25 years and no problems. Not to mention there are multiple grounds off the engine. I also have yet to even hear rumors of engine fires or the like related to ground cables arcing or causing problems that way. But still, it does look unsightly.
g

 

[doug720]

Doug,
Did you choose the 10 or the 30 micron? Is there a disadvantage to using the Racor 10 micron as a primary and then the factory filter (10 micron) as the secondary, or is it just a waste and the primary should be 30 microns?

My filter is a Racor R20T and I'm running a 10 micron element. I think the 10 micron is a good size as a primary element when combined the 2 micron secondary element.

IMHO, a 30 micron allows a lot of material through, material that the secondary must trap and hold. The amount of material getting past a 30 will load the secondary filter much quicker as it is, a least in my case, a much smaller filter element.

In addition to filtering and watching where I buy my fuel, I sample my tanks every few months. I have 2 tanks in my 60, both have drains in low areas that allow me to draw a few gallons off the bottoms into a clean bucket. This makes it easy to see any water or debris in the tanks. I try to do this with low tank levels.

If I find it's dirty or has water, I keep draining until it's clear. I then just filter the debris out and then let the fuel settle to separate any water. The clean fuel just goes back in the tanks. This is very rare to have much of anything in my tanks, but it has happened.

Doug

 

[Privy]

Hey guys....this post still active?

Just a thought/ questions if possible?

Im bit shattered as my new 80 series HDT (replacement from hz) needs a partial rebuild due to faulty injectors or bad fuel...ggrrrr. spewing.

It's being assessed....hopefully covered by warranty. Um, just thinking of ways to safeguard this from happening again & definitely thinking of doing a post or pre filter? Im a littel confused by which way to go?

I see Berrima diesel/ other diesel specailists recommend a pre filter due to (a) post filter wont allow factory restriction sensors to work and (b) in most newer diesels...factory filters are already filtering to 2 micron (common rail etc)

see info here:
https://www.berrimadiesel.com/products-serv…/pre-filter-kits

BUT in our 80's.....we dont have a restriction sensor (only water) correct (?) & our original filter is roughly 30 micron Ive been told....Hence is it better for our 80's to keep factory filter (~30 micron) & then have a 2 or 5 micron post filter secndary? or wont a 30 micron let thru too much crap....so can we get a replacement 10 micron factory filter & add 2 micron filter secondary?

another idea (?) is to add the post filter is that when the main filter fills with water - any overflow water is caught in post filter whereas if it was pre filter (with no sensor)......that is already full...??

Thoughts? brands? fuel manager? rayco parker?

thanks for any thoughts!

ro

 

[John Galt]

The standard Toyota fuel filter system for the 13B-T BJ-74 has the following filters/screens
◙ a screen on the fuel inlet in the tank
◙ a water separator/sediment trap in the engine bay
◙ a screen in the banjo bolt on the fuel feed pump inlet
◙ a cartridge fuel filter between the fuel feed pump and the injection pump

I removed the screen on the fuel inlet in the tank and added an inline filter wix/napa 33972 after the water separator/sediment trap in the engine bay just before the the fuel feed pump inlet. The stock Toyota screens are difficult to access without dropping the tank or removing the fuel feed pump. The inexpensive inline filters allow me to visually inspect the fuel quality and check for crud at a glance.

 

[NLXTACY]

What I recently did on a customer’s HJ61 with a 12H-T. He didn’t want anything too crazy so didn’t spend too much time making it pretty. Replaced the primer pump and filter as well.

Used Parker 5/16” fuel line and routed lines between the boosters.