About to replace all the battery cables on my 97 FZJ80, I have a few questions before I start

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Apr 25, 2026
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Location
california
Hey guys,

First post here, so if this is in the wrong section please forgive me. I just got the JeepCables now Big7kits 1/0 gauge wiring upgrade for my 97 FZJ80 and have a few questions before I start. All the cables are labeled on both ends which is nice but I still have some things I can't figure out. I ordered the kit so i have a solid foundation in place for when I add a winch, lights, and possibly upgrade to a 150amp alternator down the road.

Here's what came in the kit label wise:
PDC - bat pos
inline fuse - bat pos
eng block - body frame
eng block - bat neg
bat neg - fender
inline fuse - alt
bat pos - startr

Questions I'm Hoping you can answer:
1. At the alternator B post there's the stock ring terminal with two white wires on it. Does that stay on the B post with my new ALT cable or does it move to the input side of the ANL fuse holder?
2. I spoke with Big7Kits and they told me I can get rid of the fusible link entirely. Has anyone done this and run into any issues down the road? I have an ANL fuse holder with a 150amp fuse (not currently installed, will install with the upgraded wires), I'm assuming everything would be protected if I were to remove the fusible link and run just the fuse block. I thought about running both but that doesn't seem like the right way to do it. Is it safe to just run the ANL fuse holder with the 150amp fuse and ditch the fusible link completely?
3. For the ANL fuse holder I think the input side gets the ALT cable and the stock ring terminal with the two white factory wires, and the output side gets the BAT POS - INLINE FUSE cable. Does that sound right or am I way off?
4. There's a BAT POS - PDC cable in the kit, does that replace the factory cable from battery to the under hood fuse box or does it go somewhere else?
 
So I just installed mine today so I haven't checked if it works or not as I'm finishing up a few other things but the new alternator wire goes to the new fusible link sent with the kit then the fusible link goes to the battery. With that you just either take out the old alternator wiring or just tape it up and leave it in the engine bay which is what I ended up doing encase I need to ever go back for some reason.

For the fusible link you shouldn't have to keep it as that gets replaced by the new one however I think you need to do the bypass that's in the instructions that CrabCake sent if you don't end up replacing the wire that goes from the battery to the fusebox (Labeled PDC) as when I was tracing wires on of the wires coming off of the factory fusible link had the same black w/ blue stripe that the fuse box wire had.
 
Thank you for both for replying. Sorry it took so long to get back to both of you. One last question. Since my kit includes a PDC cable that goes from battery positive to the fuse box, does that mean I don't need to do the Delta VS bypass at all since the PDC cable is replacing that wire entirely? Or do I still need to do the bypass regardless?
 
Thank you for both for replying. Sorry it took so long to get back to both of you. One last question. Since my kit includes a PDC cable that goes from battery positive to the fuse box, does that mean I don't need to do the Delta VS bypass at all since the PDC cable is replacing that wire entirely? Or do I still need to do the bypass regardless?
I completely forgot when I got everything finalized to come back here and give my final report!

You DO have to keep some of the fusible link or else headlights and most of efi stuff doesn’t get power. The wires you have to keep connected are the red one and the blue one.
 
@RoninJedi7 I ended up not installing it in the fuse/relay box because there's no way it would have fit. The PDC cable is like 3 sizes to big.

Here's my write up on this kit for anyone who comes across this thread before purchasing it. The cables are really well made, but it's hard to believe they tested this kit on a stock 80 Series or if they did, they must have set it up to be mounted in a specific way without noting where that is. That said, this could all just come down to how I installed it, so I'm curious how others set theirs up, and whether you ran into the same issue with the cable lengths being too long.

I ordered the 1/0 gauge version, so the cables are thick. I mounted the fuse block on the back of the battery tray. I also have the GM Genuine Parts 215-153 (17113148) vapor canister installed, which takes up quite a bit of space. With the fuse block mounted where I put it, the cable lengths ended up being way longer than needed, and everything gets pretty cramped behind the charcoal canister. On top of that, because the cables are so thick, they're not very flexible, which makes routing them in that tight space even harder. I also had to trim out the openings on the positive and negative holes in the battery tray just to get the cables to fit through.

If anyone has mounted their fuse block somewhere else and had better luck with the cable lengths, I'd genuinely like to hear how you set it up.
 
@FZJFirefly @CrabCake Without your guidance I definitely would have fudged it up.

^ Do what these guys said in the previous posts when you go to install this kit.
 
I was able to install my pdc cable I had to bend the terminal end like 90 degrees after I had it in the box.

I was able to get it in by splitting the fuse box it was a pain that probably wasn’t worth it but if you want to get them all installed that’s what I did!
 
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