About to replace all the battery cables on my 97 FZJ80, I have a few questions before I start

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Apr 25, 2026
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california
Hey guys,

First post here, so if this is in the wrong section please forgive me. I just got the JeepCables now Big7kits 1/0 gauge wiring upgrade for my 97 FZJ80 and have a few questions before I start. All the cables are labeled on both ends which is nice but I still have some things I can't figure out. I ordered the kit so i have a solid foundation in place for when I add a winch, lights, and possibly upgrade to a 150amp alternator down the road.

Here's what came in the kit label wise:
PDC - bat pos
inline fuse - bat pos
eng block - body frame
eng block - bat neg
bat neg - fender
inline fuse - alt
bat pos - startr

Questions I'm Hoping you can answer:
1. At the alternator B post there's the stock ring terminal with two white wires on it. Does that stay on the B post with my new ALT cable or does it move to the input side of the ANL fuse holder?
2. I spoke with Big7Kits and they told me I can get rid of the fusible link entirely. Has anyone done this and run into any issues down the road? I have an ANL fuse holder with a 150amp fuse (not currently installed, will install with the upgraded wires), I'm assuming everything would be protected if I were to remove the fusible link and run just the fuse block. I thought about running both but that doesn't seem like the right way to do it. Is it safe to just run the ANL fuse holder with the 150amp fuse and ditch the fusible link completely?
3. For the ANL fuse holder I think the input side gets the ALT cable and the stock ring terminal with the two white factory wires, and the output side gets the BAT POS - INLINE FUSE cable. Does that sound right or am I way off?
4. There's a BAT POS - PDC cable in the kit, does that replace the factory cable from battery to the under hood fuse box or does it go somewhere else?
 
So I just installed mine today so I haven't checked if it works or not as I'm finishing up a few other things but the new alternator wire goes to the new fusible link sent with the kit then the fusible link goes to the battery. With that you just either take out the old alternator wiring or just tape it up and leave it in the engine bay which is what I ended up doing encase I need to ever go back for some reason.

For the fusible link you shouldn't have to keep it as that gets replaced by the new one however I think you need to do the bypass that's in the instructions that CrabCake sent if you don't end up replacing the wire that goes from the battery to the fusebox (Labeled PDC) as when I was tracing wires on of the wires coming off of the factory fusible link had the same black w/ blue stripe that the fuse box wire had.
 
Thank you for both for replying. Sorry it took so long to get back to both of you. One last question. Since my kit includes a PDC cable that goes from battery positive to the fuse box, does that mean I don't need to do the Delta VS bypass at all since the PDC cable is replacing that wire entirely? Or do I still need to do the bypass regardless?
 
Thank you for both for replying. Sorry it took so long to get back to both of you. One last question. Since my kit includes a PDC cable that goes from battery positive to the fuse box, does that mean I don't need to do the Delta VS bypass at all since the PDC cable is replacing that wire entirely? Or do I still need to do the bypass regardless?
I completely forgot when I got everything finalized to come back here and give my final report!

You DO have to keep some of the fusible link or else headlights and most of efi stuff doesn’t get power. The wires you have to keep connected are the red one and the blue one.
 
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