Good Work!
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Just saw this thread... keep a posting...
Did I see @Nay in one of those pics? He is a wealth of knowledge with 80 series.
Have you considered a 1" body lift to clear the 37s?
With the 851/860 +30mm front spacer you have I would say try a 1” body lift first. Unless you have an extra $1500+ to go to a 4” lift. Not only will springs and longer shocks be needed, more CC, but everything will have to be extended, dropped, and at least a front DC driveshaft. It adds up quickly. Also, how are your front radius arm bushings? I had a lot of play in mine at the frame mount that was allowing the front axle to be pushed backwards and the tire to contact the body.
Just saw this thread... keep a posting...
Did I see @Nay in one of those pics? He is a wealth of knowledge with 80 series.
Have you considered a 1" body lift to clear the 37s?
Just coming across this build thread now. Very nice work man, keep it up!
Have you hit up Eagle Rock trail yet since it's 'local' to ya? I've been wanting to make the trek down for a while now and give it a shot in the 80, curious how it is. (I've attempted it a few times in my old Tacoma but had to throw in the towel since I was solo.)
That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.
Oh, another thought with fitting 37s is bump stops.
What do you have front & rear?
How long are your shocks?
That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.
His rubbing issues are weird. Less rubbing by removing 1” wheel spacers (stock backspace rims, same as I run, 8.5” wide) and very little in the inside rear wheel well, about like I had with 35’s.
Plus some rear inner fender rubbing on the front that should clear easily - that could be frame end radius arm bushings that were suggested earlier (those are still original) as I clear pretty easily with or without wheel spacers with, again, same rims and pretty much identical tire specs and it’s not really a lift clearance issue vs. a turning clearance issue. I don’t have enough extra lift to explain the difference.
His Fox shocks have more up travel than I’d like to see in total up/down balance (I think they are more or less same specs as the OME non-L), but 37’s with no wheel spacers or bumpstop extensions should be all over the rear inner wheel well and it’s not.
Soooooooo...it feels like a let sleeping dogs lie thing to me except those front radius arm frame bushings, because it’s not tearing up the truck and retuning will not be cheap as more down travel is likely to create a lot of rear wheel well contact as the wheel angles in more.
That’s about the opposite of what I always say, but the grass is neither greener nor growing right now...
That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.
I did it once upon a time with 40s and no sliders....that was pretty stressful.That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.
Thanks for the heads up guys. My 80 is still stock and so was my Tacoma on a lesser tire that did well in snow and dry. I know the 80 is 10x as capable but the width and damage worries me with line selection. I may try it one of these days if I can get another rig to come with.
How’s the snow situation down there presently?
Thanks for the heads up guys. My 80 is still stock and so was my Tacoma on a lesser tire that did well in snow and dry. I know the 80 is 10x as capable but the width and damage worries me with line selection. I may try it one of these days if I can get another rig to come with.
How’s the snow situation down there presently?