I hear what you are saying about the idle when you jump the terminal while setting timing, but maybe the fact that your idle drops a lot is due to the underlying issue... that, and don’t gauge rpm by sound of idle...; check the tach... if you were supposed to adjust the idle speed yourself when checking time the fsm would say so...
Default to not doing things not directed by fsm. With the idle xception of a few omissions, they are spot on...
If you must I would shim the throttle open to get there. At least the air is metered this way. Adjusting the golden screw or something else will confuse the confuser.
Is it the wiring? What is your THA-E2 at the AFM connector? Also curious what the THA-E22 resistance reads and the E2-E22 reads at the ECU.Makes sense to me, thanks!
Also, I conducted the resistance tests on FI-79 with some strange results.
Basically, everything checked out according to the FSM with the exception of the intake air temperature (THA-E2). With the intake at 68°F, I was supposed to get 2,000-3000 ohms and I got 7750 ohms.
I tried several AFMs and got the same resistance reading on all three AFMs so I don't think this is a problem related to the AFM. I also put a hair dryer in front of the temp probe to see if the fact that it was about 55°-60°F in the garage made a difference. No joy.
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Seems like the resistance check on that page should be from THA-E22. That wire leaves the AFM as E2 but comes into the ECU at E22. If we are checking the wiring from the AFM to ECU, wouldn’t that make sense or am I screwed up?
It just says: Warm up engine. Connect timing light. Jump terminals TE1 - E1. Check idle speed at 650 rpm. Set timing to 7° BTDC w/ TE1-E1 connected.
This engine idles at 650rpm when warm but when I jump TE1 -E1, it drops the idle another 100-150rpm. So, what should I do? Time it at ~500rpm even though it says 650rpm or increase the throttle to keep it at 650rpm while I set the timing?
The wiring diagram shows it as E22 at the ECU as well.I know, it’s confusing, right? The resistance test specifies THA-E2 at the ECU terminals, but the digram on FI-36 shows THA - E22 between the ECU and airflow meter. Do you think there’s a reason the resistance test specifies THA –E2 as opposed to E22 or could it be a typo?
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I am using Denso 234-4056 with no issues - not factory exhaust but if I remember right I put them the same distance downstream and the wires reached fine.Anyone know the part number for the Denso O2 with the long pigtail/harness? I've got the new bungs/blanking plates on order, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to need new O2s with longer wiring to reach further downstream.
There is an O ring inside the idle speed control that's probably old and dried up. Just have to undo the three phillips screws that hold the black plastic cylinder to the housing.
The size is 2mm x 36mm - I used a V75 Viton O ring
Dont give up - this thread will be incredibly helpful for many!