A couple of questions about part #43503-69035 aka Front Axle Hub Sub-Assembly

[dealmaker]

Looking at a front end refresh for my '06 LX w/163k miles.
I have a good idea what parts I need as I worked on one side afer a mechanic I used to use did a not-so-great front bearings re-pak and new front rotors job 5 yrs ago.

Part # in question is in these two diagrams:

https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-hub-assembly-4350369035

43503-69035 Genuine Toyota Front Axle Hub Sub-Assembly

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 43503-69035 (4350369035) Front Axle Hub Sub-Assembly for $362.03. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

It appears to be the inboard and outboard bearings in one of the links. I assume it comes from the OEM manufacturer with both bearings, wheel studs and washer pins along with the hub. Does it come with the races, too? Does it arrive in pieces, or is it shipped assembled and with the races already pressed in? It looks like the races are already pressed in, in the first link and maybe a hub oil seal (#9031170011), too??...just tryin' to figure it out so I can get all the parts in one order.

TIA

 

[leveeguy]

Whatever you order, don't order from those guys

Thread 'Toyotapartsdeal.com strikes again'

Apr 2, 2026

Ordered a new driver’s seatbelt in Oak off of Toyota Parts Deal PN 73220-60260-E0 BELT ASSY, FR SEAT for my 80 series. What I received was an obviously repackaged, and locked up, seatbelt in dark gray. I reached out to them and they responded with:

Their first response was dismissive:

[td]

“Part number 73220-60270-B0 is the superseding part number and is a direct replacement to part number 73220-60260-E0 within Toyota's catalog. They are interchangeable and will work on all of the same applications.

Although the website may not reflect the...​

​

• Ib8mud
• Replies: 30
• Forum: Bad Sellers - Buyer Beware

• 

 

[2001LC]

Yes. Races are always paired with wheel bearings. Whether buying just the bearings or new wheel hub. Note: Races, should always be keep with their bearings.

You'll also need the rear oil seal, Hub flange studs and hub flange gasket. May need claw washer and or 54mm nuts.

As always, replace wheel bearing adjusting & lock nuts': lock washer, snap ring (proper thickness for less than 0.2mm gap) and grease cap.

In over 100 wheel bearing services. I've only found a few wheel hubs, so damaged by improper rotor removal. I couldn't restore.
Why are you replacing wheel hub?

 

[TexLexican]

Make sure you have a bunch of grease for the bearings and a copper punch for the cone washers. Also, How are you upper and lower ball joints and CVs? This would be a good opportunity to address them.

 

[2001LC]

I restore wheel hubs and steering knuckles. Over the years I've end up with extras. I've actual 3 set of restore bare wheel hubs sitting in boxes and 2 set steering knuckles plus two odd left knuckles.

 

[dealmaker]

Yes. Races are always paired with wheel bearings. Whether buying just the bearings or new wheel hub. Note: Races, should always be keep with their bearings.

You'll also need the rear oil seal, Hub flange studs and hub flange gasket. May need claw washer and or 54mm nuts.

As always, replace wheel bearing adjusting & lock nuts': lock washer, snap ring (proper thickness for less than 0.2mm gap) and grease cap.

In over 100 wheel bearing services. I've only found a few wheel hubs, so damaged by improper rotor removal. I couldn't restore.
Why are you replacing wheel hub?

View attachment 4199210View attachment 4199211View attachment 4199213View attachment 4199212View attachment 4199214

Five or so yrs ago my indy Lexus mechanic at that time replaced front discs and repacked bearings and stripped the threads in one bolt hole in the hub and popped in a helicoil. That lead directly to this: Front end mystery noise after new front brake job w/stripped rotor bolt hole in hub - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-end-mystery-noise-after-new-front-brake-job-w-stripped-rotor-bolt-hole-in-hub.1264855/#post-14151495

I perused many of your threads and videos regarding same and even exchanged some PM's or post convo's with you. I feel like I did a solid job on that one side when I refreshed everything but that hub 5 yrs ago. Even grinded down the gouges on the hub where past mechanic(s) probably hammered a chisel between the hub and flange to get them separated. But I didn't do the other side, so I'm thinking do 'em both now.

Anyways, I've had the little "noise" or "wha-wha" from front left, that becomes noticable around 30+mph. Currently have 163,xxx rust-free SoCal miles on it. The sound has lessened considerably the past 5 yrs, and maybe it is tire-related, although I've rotated a few times since then and it's still slightly present. 5 yrs and ~25k miles later I figured maybe I should just refresh both sides. But then TexLexican had to grease my OCD with his "How are you upper and lower ball joints and CVs? This would be a good opportunity to address them" comment above. 13 yrs ago one of the CV boots was replaced. Ball joints, control arms all original....slippery slope! This LX has been a Soccer Mom Pavement Car until the past few months when I just started going on a few short forest service trails up in Eastern Sierra. Zero issues driving it, including 2,000 mile Oregon road trip. About to put new Toyo AT3's on it...I guess that'll determine if the noise was tire-related.

I have not found any 100 mechanics down here in LA that I have much confidence in. The last guy charges rates by the book-hours yet obviously takes shortcuts, doesn't use scale for breakaway, etc. I'm at the point where I'd rather drive it OOS if that's what it takes to get a qualified 100 person to diagnose and get the repairs done right, and with OEM parts.