A/C Vendor (1 Viewer)

[ModisetteJ]

So last summer I found someone who sold the air conditioner parts for the 60's, and now I can't find it anywhere. I'm doing this thread so future bozo's like me that aren't as good at navigating the search bar will be able to find it easier.

Does anyone know who the people are that sell that equipment?
Thanks and Cheers!

 

[ModisetteJ]

Well, I proved myself wrong. I found it.
Coolstream Auto Airconditioning
http://nebula.wsimg.com/f8f04af4115...D11DBE96C4AC9FA7E&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

 

[1972FJ55]

FWIW: Amazon 471-0204 $235.47
478-0101 $21.06

 

[elsie]

I am a complete virgin on these forums or any social media, so bear with me. I had 20 years of life "out there" in the public eye and am jaded by the experience, so now really enjoy my privacy. It took me forever just to figure out where to type a comment and have no idea yet how to get to the right "thread" as I think it is called to gather the information I need. If anyone is so inclined to respond or direct me to the best place to find an answer to my query it would be appreciated.

I have a 1988 FJ62. I looked for four years for this exact model after going on an off road trip in one fifteen years ago, and 11 years ago found a one owner 70k mile truck that had sat in a garage on a ranch for 7 years after the first owner passed away. I went through her every system with care and gave her new life and she has had a blast on my ranch going anywhere I could keep three wheels on the ground and point her towards. While never a professional, I am a very good mechanic. Just have the knack with mechanical things and can fix anything if I have anything close to the proper tools. Which is my problem now in that I don't have an AC machine. Elsie, my 62, never had an AC problem until this summer when the compressor just wouldn't switch on. I checked the power from source to destination and all connections and all is good. Upon further investigation figured out I just have a leak that brought the internal pressure too low for the compressor to switch on as it is designed to do for self preservation. Got my hands on some R12 and the proper oil and put in two cans of refrigerant and 2.5 oz. of oil to get the low and high side gauges up to factory specified full and all was well; cold air blew just like before. Then two weeks later it wasn't blowing as coldly and then the compressor wasn't coming on again.

I have no desire to switch from the R12 system since it works fine if I can fix the leak. But, I need someone who has an R12 machine, knows what they are doing (as I have found out most are clueless and will lie and mix coolants and oils that aren't compatible and ruin the system), and can put in dye and bring the pressure up so I can find the leaks, repair them, then put back in the roughly 750 grams of coolant again. So all of the above is the problem. What I need to know is:

1. Who in the Fort Worth area has an R12 machine that can put the die in and bring the pressure up so I can find the leaks?
And, not screw-up my system while they are doing it when I'm not able to watch and keep them from doing something stupid.
2. When the leak is found, can I simply pull out the Shraeder valves to purge the system and then replace the o-rings, compression fittings, hoses, seals, or whatever is leaking? Or is there a different proper procedure to follow when repairing the leaks and opening the system (which is essentially opened anyway with the leak, right?)?
3. Once the leaks are repaired, I need the same mechanic with the R12 machine to run another pressure test to be sure all is well and then pull a vacuum so I, or he since he's there, can put the R12 and oil back in. Or, is there something else that needs to be done once the sealed system has been opened for repairs?
4. Some oil has been lost through the leaks and certainly when the system is opened, but there is still a good portion that will stay pooled and coated throughout the system in the drier, compressor, condenser, hoses etc., so how much should I put back in to have enough but not too much?

On number 4, my previous research said (when I put in the two cans of R12 and oil through the low side valve) to add 2-3 oz. of oil if the system has remained closed but simply lost pressure, since the lion share of the required 6 oz. total volume is retained.

My guess would be to do my best in measuring what comes out during the leak repairs and add that plus 2-3 oz. back into the system. Or, should I have the still to be discovered competent mechanic with the R12 machine go ahead and flush/evacuate the entire system once the post repairs pressure test shows a leak free system and then put in 5 oz. figuring at least an oz. is still coating the system and in the compressor reservoir.

I have been from stem to stern refurbishing, upgrading, and updating everything meticulously on Elsie and this one is really annoying me in that I can't find a mechanic with the proper equipment I trust and I want to make sure I don't put back too little oil and burn up the compressor or too much and hamper the cooling.

Now I just hope I didn't type this whole book of info in the wrong place and get no response or have made some netiquette faux-pas and am ignored because I'm not with it in the information age. Any response is appreciated. Lastly, I am looking for a rear bumper drivers side rubber end cap (parking lot flake hit and run), a power antenna (dumb me left it up while climbing out of a creek bed under limbs), and the drivers side bottom seat cover in gray (the notorious tear) if anyone knows where I can find that stuff; preferrably used so it matches (Elsie's been used the way she was intended so she has her wear).

 

[elsie]

Sorry about the "book" I just sent. It was a lot to cover. I type faster than I can talk. I'll be brief in the future.

 

[bram]

great post elsie. I understand you are new to this and I think its great that you are here. However, what you just did is known as a "hijack". If you want answers to your questions you should start your own thread with the above as the first post. This thread belongs to the original poster (OP in forum parlance) and your post does not add anything relevant to his or her topic.

 

[Elbert]

you are not suppose to vent R-12 or other freon to the atmosphere, most a/c shops will and do have R-12 setups but the freon is gonna be expensive.

There are procedures dealing with A/C repair...one of which is that when you empty the system of freon, you must run a vacum on the system for a certain period of time to validate the integrity of the system and to remove moisture before adding freon back.

Seems like if you are going to a shop.....you let them do all the repairs because otherwise its going to be very time consuming and aggrivating.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I am a complete virgin on these forums or any social media, so bear with me. I had 20 years of life "out there" in the public eye and am jaded by the experience, so now really enjoy my privacy. It took me forever just to figure out where to type a comment and have no idea yet how to get to the right "thread" as I think it is called to gather the information I need. If anyone is so inclined to respond or direct me to the best place to find an answer to my query it would be appreciated.

I have a 1988 FJ62. I looked for four years for this exact model after going on an off road trip in one fifteen years ago, and 11 years ago found a one owner 70k mile truck that had sat in a garage on a ranch for 7 years after the first owner passed away. I went through her every system with care and gave her new life and she has had a blast on my ranch going anywhere I could keep three wheels on the ground and point her towards. While never a professional, I am a very good mechanic. Just have the knack with mechanical things and can fix anything if I have anything close to the proper tools. Which is my problem now in that I don't have an AC machine. Elsie, my 62, never had an AC problem until this summer when the compressor just wouldn't switch on. I checked the power from source to destination and all connections and all is good. Upon further investigation figured out I just have a leak that brought the internal pressure too low for the compressor to switch on as it is designed to do for self preservation. Got my hands on some R12 and the proper oil and put in two cans of refrigerant and 2.5 oz. of oil to get the low and high side gauges up to factory specified full and all was well; cold air blew just like before. Then two weeks later it wasn't blowing as coldly and then the compressor wasn't coming on again.

I have no desire to switch from the R12 system since it works fine if I can fix the leak. But, I need someone who has an R12 machine, knows what they are doing (as I have found out most are clueless and will lie and mix coolants and oils that aren't compatible and ruin the system), and can put in dye and bring the pressure up so I can find the leaks, repair them, then put back in the roughly 750 grams of coolant again. So all of the above is the problem. What I need to know is:

1. Who in the Fort Worth area has an R12 machine that can put the die in and bring the pressure up so I can find the leaks?
And, not screw-up my system while they are doing it when I'm not able to watch and keep them from doing something stupid.
2. When the leak is found, can I simply pull out the Shraeder valves to purge the system and then replace the o-rings, compression fittings, hoses, seals, or whatever is leaking? Or is there a different proper procedure to follow when repairing the leaks and opening the system (which is essentially opened anyway with the leak, right?)?
3. Once the leaks are repaired, I need the same mechanic with the R12 machine to run another pressure test to be sure all is well and then pull a vacuum so I, or he since he's there, can put the R12 and oil back in. Or, is there something else that needs to be done once the sealed system has been opened for repairs?
4. Some oil has been lost through the leaks and certainly when the system is opened, but there is still a good portion that will stay pooled and coated throughout the system in the drier, compressor, condenser, hoses etc., so how much should I put back in to have enough but not too much?

On number 4, my previous research said (when I put in the two cans of R12 and oil through the low side valve) to add 2-3 oz. of oil if the system has remained closed but simply lost pressure, since the lion share of the required 6 oz. total volume is retained.

My guess would be to do my best in measuring what comes out during the leak repairs and add that plus 2-3 oz. back into the system. Or, should I have the still to be discovered competent mechanic with the R12 machine go ahead and flush/evacuate the entire system once the post repairs pressure test shows a leak free system and then put in 5 oz. figuring at least an oz. is still coating the system and in the compressor reservoir.

I have been from stem to stern refurbishing, upgrading, and updating everything meticulously on Elsie and this one is really annoying me in that I can't find a mechanic with the proper equipment I trust and I want to make sure I don't put back too little oil and burn up the compressor or too much and hamper the cooling.

Now I just hope I didn't type this whole book of info in the wrong place and get no response or have made some netiquette faux-pas and am ignored because I'm not with it in the information age. Any response is appreciated. Lastly, I am looking for a rear bumper drivers side rubber end cap (parking lot flake hit and run), a power antenna (dumb me left it up while climbing out of a creek bed under limbs), and the drivers side bottom seat cover in gray (the notorious tear) if anyone knows where I can find that stuff; preferrably used so it matches (Elsie's been used the way she was intended so she has her wear).

You have some great guys with vast knowledge and skills in your area. Lone Star Land Cruisers is one of your local clubs.

TX- Lone Star Land Cruisers

Start a conversation with any of them. I'm sure they will help out or point you in the right direction.

@jebber @Texican @Michael Hanson @40's rock

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Coolstream and and R12==ice cubesss. THANKS @cruiserfj45 !!!

 

[cruiserfj45]

@elsie Check out your local club, you may find someone there with the right tools to help you do it yourself. I have all the right stuff however I live in CA so I cant help you. If you have a set of gauges then all you need is a good vacuum pump. I recommend robinair a/c tools. Follow all the lines and look for a connection that looks oily, that is most likely where you are loosing refrigerant as the refrigerant will escape and take some oil with it. If you don't find it outside it may be inside the cabin where the evaporator lives. It can be removed without removing the entire dash and then cleaned of 30 years of dirt and animal hair. If you have anymore questions you can ask here or PM me (start a conversation) by clicking on my name to the left and then clicking on the start a conversation button that appears in the small window that pops up. As far as hijack goes if its along the same line its not too much fowl play but in this case the op (Original Poster) had his question answered. Welcome to MUD...

 

[elsie]

Thanks for all of your responses, and please forgive the "hijacking". I knew I would probably do this wrong the first time ever participating. I'll do my best to figure out how to start a new thread and get up to speed with the etiquette. I did find a competent LC mechanic to inject dye into the AC system and it seems the main front and rear seals on my compressor are leaking. I have the specs to rebuild it and luckily a case of R12. I'll add more along with a question on a stripped transmission drain plug when I figure out how to start my own thread and not annoy others by hijacking. Thx