Do you have a link to the parts you used?
No links.
Everything was bought on
ebay (before it became TemuBay) or
Amazon, some stuff bought online direct from suppliers.
Stuff I used for my scenario-
3 & 4" 90⁰ mandrel bends.
(Or whatever size you need)
Cut to suit the angle you need.
A combination of long radius and short radius elbows gives you some flexibility with your layout. Long radius is better for gas flow, short radius uses less space to get around a corner.
Use a jig so the cut is angled from the center point of the radius so your cut is still a true circle that mates correctly to the pipe.
Some 45⁰ elbows might save some cutting.
If you can find them, use elbows with extended legs. This will save in the number of welds required, and means in a lot of places, you can weld elbow to elbow without adding short pipe in between. I don't think stainless steel elbows are available with an extended leg, but I may be wrong.
Pipe
3 & 4" pipe. Or whatever size system you're building.
You actually don't need a lot of pipe. I think I ordered 3 x 3' lengths and had 2' left over.
V-band joints.
You want enough of these to make installation easy. So, at the manifold/ down pipe, near the transfer case crossmember, at the rear diff where you have to cross over the frame, under the body, over the diff etc.
V bands for through a much smaller gap than bolted flanges. And they look cleaner, and they are a bit more forgiving if you need to slightly rotate a piece of the system.
Use the flat vbands, not the ones with a secondary lip. The ones with a lip are a bear to get together if you have any heat distortion at all)
Flexible braided joint
Mine was diesel. The diesel engines shudder a lot when they are shut down.
I solid mounted my exhaust at the bell housing and at the transfer case, then installed a 3" flexible joint. The pipe hit against the frame on shut down, so i swapped in a longer flexible joint
Mufflers,
My front muffler was a flowmaster, 6x9x18 full flow
Inlet was offset to one side, outlet was centered.
If the outlet was fully offset,I would have had a better transition to get over he rear diff, and possibly could have fitted a longer muffler.
Rear muffler, I think was 6" round x 14" long.
The first system i built for my 80 series, I didn't put a rear muffler in and it droned a bit. The one pictured was for my 105 series, and there was no drone.
Rear muffler size was dictated by clearance needed for my oversized rear fuel tank. Without a sub tank, a bigger rear muffler would be an option
Hangers
I used some 3x25mm 1/8×1" flat bar to make hangers utilizing the original mounts.
I bent a J on the end so they wrapped under the pipe, and stitched them in a few places. A single attachment point in the pipe will treat out, wrapping under it stopped that. I think I used round bar for hangers too.
My goal was to use nothing greater than a 45⁰ bend anywhere except the turbo dump pipe and to minimize the total number of bends. 90⁰ bends disrupt gas flow, 45⁰ long radius bends have minimal impact on gas flow.
As with anything like this, somethings could have been done different, but trying to figure stuff out in my head and order parts meant compromises were made ( such as front muffler length, and in/out offsets)
I spent about $1000AUD 10 years ago (~$600USD.) A beaudesert exhaust system ( the ducks nuts at the time) was about $1400 at the time.
IMHO my system improved on the best of the shelf system in a lot of ways. To have someone build this would have cost me double what I spent on materials.
