Hopeing to do the same in 2-3 weeks
Build 97 F2UZJ80
- Thread starter thepinktaco
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Hopeing to do the same in 2-3 weeks
That wasn’t the answer I was looking for… well that’s one more thing to look for. Sounds like NWFab makes an ecobox to go behind the sequoia trans. $$$$
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- #43
Took a few trips to different parts stores and browsing online but found hoses to fit. The factory upper would be kinked due to the angle of the radiator and engine connections. The lower has the right angles but a couple inches too long. Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538.
Looking good!
That lower hose number crosses to an LS 400 if anyone is wondering for a Toyota OE number.
The gates 100 series lower hose I have fits well but not as good as I would like. Thanks for tracking that number down !!!!
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- #46
I sized it up on a friends LS430 after finding it online and it was perfect. The dayco one looks more universal and straight, the gates one has an extra little bend in it.
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- #47
Finally got back to it. Couple feet of snow and near 0 degree temps are not ideal to be working outside.
The VVT 2UZ only uses 1 coolant temp sensor and signal for the gauge comes from the ECM. Non VVT versions used 2 separate sensors. Found Toyota used a combined 3 wire sensor on early 00 corollas and other models. This allows me to run the analog gauge and feed the ECM from one sensor. Also had to use the 1FZ oil pressure sender to control the gauge since the 2uz one did not work.
Now that its running the only issue I'm running into is once at operating temp and in closed loop the idle starts to get low, then surges a little trying to stay running, then will stall. It will fire right back up with no issue though. I don’t have the breather tube hooked up to the intake tube yet so maybe that’s an issue,
It is setting a code for the air injection driver but I had it deleted in the ECM so dont know what the issue is there.
The VVT 2UZ only uses 1 coolant temp sensor and signal for the gauge comes from the ECM. Non VVT versions used 2 separate sensors. Found Toyota used a combined 3 wire sensor on early 00 corollas and other models. This allows me to run the analog gauge and feed the ECM from one sensor. Also had to use the 1FZ oil pressure sender to control the gauge since the 2uz one did not work.
Now that its running the only issue I'm running into is once at operating temp and in closed loop the idle starts to get low, then surges a little trying to stay running, then will stall. It will fire right back up with no issue though. I don’t have the breather tube hooked up to the intake tube yet so maybe that’s an issue,
It is setting a code for the air injection driver but I had it deleted in the ECM so dont know what the issue is there.
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- Thread starter
- #48
Had some time to look at it today. Found I was one pin off of the air injection driver wiring. Fixed that and the code is gone. Also hooked up the intake tube to the air box. Had it running for over an hour without issue. I think with the tube being open near the MAF before hooking it up to the air box it was throwing off the reading. Still runs a bit lean. Around 20% at idle and 25% around 3000 rpm.
- Thread starter
- #49
Been getting a bunch of little things squared away. Finished the ABS and LSPV delete. Temporarily mounted the gas pedal. Wired in the transfer case stuff.
Got driveshafts built from tom woods. 7 days from ordering to installed. Double cardan for the front, 1350 u-joint .120 wall for the rear. Ended up being 26.5” for the front, and 43” for the rear.
Took the 2uz booster hose barb and straightened the bracket. Drilled a hole though the firewall to mount it. Engine side hose is the one to the booster from the 2uz mated to the original FJ80 hose.
Starting to look like it belongs in there.
Got driveshafts built from tom woods. 7 days from ordering to installed. Double cardan for the front, 1350 u-joint .120 wall for the rear. Ended up being 26.5” for the front, and 43” for the rear.
Took the 2uz booster hose barb and straightened the bracket. Drilled a hole though the firewall to mount it. Engine side hose is the one to the booster from the 2uz mated to the original FJ80 hose.
Starting to look like it belongs in there.
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- #50
Temporary pedal bracket. Section of frame rail from my Tacoma happened to be the right size I needed. Once I drive it and make sure pedal position feels good Ill make a better bracket.
CDL wasn't working when testing. Jumping power to the motor wasn't working either. Took the actuator out and found the magnets unglued from the housing. Reattached them and got the motor working. Then found the 4low and CDL lock switch in the transfer case had high resistance. Replaced both of those, then found the CDL relay was bad. After all those parts replaced the motor now moves but CDL is stuck locked in. Have to pull everything apart again to figure out why.
Had to test out driveshaft to exhaust clearance. Think I'm going to run without the tail pipe because I'm not certain the muffler wont hit the frame or driveshaft when flexed. There's less than 1/2" clearance between the muffler and lower control arm bracket, and to the driveshaft.
CDL wasn't working when testing. Jumping power to the motor wasn't working either. Took the actuator out and found the magnets unglued from the housing. Reattached them and got the motor working. Then found the 4low and CDL lock switch in the transfer case had high resistance. Replaced both of those, then found the CDL relay was bad. After all those parts replaced the motor now moves but CDL is stuck locked in. Have to pull everything apart again to figure out why.
Had to test out driveshaft to exhaust clearance. Think I'm going to run without the tail pipe because I'm not certain the muffler wont hit the frame or driveshaft when flexed. There's less than 1/2" clearance between the muffler and lower control arm bracket, and to the driveshaft.
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- #51
Got the charcoal canister mounted and wired up. Didn't know how using the 1/4" purge line going to the 3/4" inlet line to the LDP was going to go, but passed the EVAP test within the time limits. Plastic welded a threaded hose barb into the factory line to adapt the sizes. The fitting was tight enough that I had to thread it in.
The reason for the emission tests?
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- #53
Just ran the test to see if it would pass without codes. Wasn’t sure if the leak detection pump would struggle to pull enough vacuum in the allotted time using the factory 1/4” purge line. I’m guessing it uses the larger hose more for vapor recovery when refilling.
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- #54
A little over a year later its finally driving again. Put just over 100 miles on. Running around 21% on long term but hasn't set a lean code yet. Smoke tested looking for vacuum leaks, found two small leaks, but didn't make a difference. Going to look at fuel issues next.
Ended up using a smaller muffler due to clearances. Went from a Magnaflow 12580 to 12258. Used the factory tail pipe with resonator for now. It will have to be modified when building a rear bumper. Has a nice sound when getting on the throttle but almost silent at idle.
Next up is getting a fan shroud built and get the a/c lines figured out along with compressor wiring
Ended up using a smaller muffler due to clearances. Went from a Magnaflow 12580 to 12258. Used the factory tail pipe with resonator for now. It will have to be modified when building a rear bumper. Has a nice sound when getting on the throttle but almost silent at idle.
Next up is getting a fan shroud built and get the a/c lines figured out along with compressor wiring
- Thread starter
- #55
So I have a 2v drop on the fuel pump circuit, Ran power directly to the pump and didn’t make a difference. It might at full throttle but not idling. Then I went on to checking the MAF since it’s reading a little low. When running off the sensor in the 2uz box fuel trims dropped to 0. In this same configuration using the other MAF in the tub, trims raise to 10%. So I’m guessing the MAF is too close to the throttle body with how I have it, first 10%, as well as turbulence in the factory 80 box, other 10% to equal the 20 it was at before. It’s not a restriction through the fender since lifting the factory lid did not change anything.
I recall my FTs did not change between the 2uz oem airbox and 80 airbox setups I have. When I get it buttoned again and driving I intend to reinstall the 80 series airbox to see if there is a difference now with the reworked harness.