Build 97 F2UZJ80

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You need to use a transmission from a Land cruiser/LX470 to be able to use the FJ80 transfer case.
That wasn’t the answer I was looking for… well that’s one more thing to look for. Sounds like NWFab makes an ecobox to go behind the sequoia trans. $$$$
 
Took a few trips to different parts stores and browsing online but found hoses to fit. The factory upper would be kinked due to the angle of the radiator and engine connections. The lower has the right angles but a couple inches too long. Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538.
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Looking good!
 
Took a few trips to different parts stores and browsing online but found hoses to fit. The factory upper would be kinked due to the angle of the radiator and engine connections. The lower has the right angles but a couple inches too long. Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538. View attachment 4065381
That lower hose number crosses to an LS 400 if anyone is wondering for a Toyota OE number.

The gates 100 series lower hose I have fits well but not as good as I would like. Thanks for tracking that number down !!!!
 
That lower hose number crosses to an LS 400 if anyone is wondering for a Toyota OE number.

The gates 100 series lower hose I have fits well but not as good as I would like. Thanks for tracking that number down !!!!
I sized it up on a friends LS430 after finding it online and it was perfect. The dayco one looks more universal and straight, the gates one has an extra little bend in it.
 
Finally got back to it. Couple feet of snow and near 0 degree temps are not ideal to be working outside.

The VVT 2UZ only uses 1 coolant temp sensor and signal for the gauge comes from the ECM. Non VVT versions used 2 separate sensors. Found Toyota used a combined 3 wire sensor on early 00 corollas and other models. This allows me to run the analog gauge and feed the ECM from one sensor. Also had to use the 1FZ oil pressure sender to control the gauge since the 2uz one did not work.

Now that its running the only issue I'm running into is once at operating temp and in closed loop the idle starts to get low, then surges a little trying to stay running, then will stall. It will fire right back up with no issue though. I don’t have the breather tube hooked up to the intake tube yet so maybe that’s an issue,

It is setting a code for the air injection driver but I had it deleted in the ECM so dont know what the issue is there.
 
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Had some time to look at it today. Found I was one pin off of the air injection driver wiring. Fixed that and the code is gone. Also hooked up the intake tube to the air box. Had it running for over an hour without issue. I think with the tube being open near the MAF before hooking it up to the air box it was throwing off the reading. Still runs a bit lean. Around 20% at idle and 25% around 3000 rpm.
 
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