So I recently got my '91 3FE FJ80 back in my possession after loaning it to my brother who needed it. He said he had no issues with hard shifting and it was running great while he used it. Since then, it's sat at his place for about a year.
Prior to loaning it to him, (when it was my daily driver) I had some hard shifting issues and had an incident where it was in gear but would not drive. My old mechanic did some things to make it operable again (see TRANSMISSION CONTEXT).
Within the past month, I proceeded to do a mad-dash overhaul on this thing (see OVERHAUL CONTEXT) since I was told it was pressing to get it removed from the driveway.
ISSUES ARISE--TEST DRIVE after sitting 1 yr:
(A-440F) TRANSMISSION CONTEXT:
My old mechanic had previously addressed this hard shifting and not moving when in gear with:
Prior to loaning it to him, (when it was my daily driver) I had some hard shifting issues and had an incident where it was in gear but would not drive. My old mechanic did some things to make it operable again (see TRANSMISSION CONTEXT).
Within the past month, I proceeded to do a mad-dash overhaul on this thing (see OVERHAUL CONTEXT) since I was told it was pressing to get it removed from the driveway.
ISSUES ARISE--TEST DRIVE after sitting 1 yr:
- Short Test-Drive around the block:
- It was driving perfectly fine but after operating a little while the hard shifting became more and more noticeable.
- Started to slow down to almost lurching forward. Praise God I made it to the driveway before this happened.
- I tried adjusting through the gears (P,R,N,D,3,2). It started to idle high 2000 RPM in PARK and NEUTRAL and 1100 RPM in DRIVE and REVERSE... In Drive in would not move forward regardless of how I pressed on the gas.
- Gray sweetish light smoke coming from engine bay: Could this just be burning off from the coolant flush we'd just done (see "OVERHAUL/CONTEXT" below)? We checked the transmission dip stick and the fluid did not appear burnt.. it still looked red.
- I let it sit, was able to get in neutral, and roll it forward back to the shop area. I adjusted the throttle cable and transmission cable to where they only had a "slight give".
- 2nd Short Test-Drive: it ran fine again (and it actually idled better 600-800rpm) until it started to shift hard and would push to higher rpms before ever shifting gears. It came to a point to where it slowed down on its own again. It was once again in gear but would not move forward. I readjusted the transmission cable and was able to limp it home as short distance. Again but less severe, Gray sweetish light smoke started coming from engine bay. Checked fluid and it was the same story. It's not a vibrant red but its red--it did not appear burnt/blackened.
(A-440F) TRANSMISSION CONTEXT:
My old mechanic had previously addressed this hard shifting and not moving when in gear with:
1) topped off fluids
2) an aftermarket transmission fluid cooler added to front of the radiator
3) also he disconnected the 4WD actuator (which sits on top of the transmission, accessible by the underside of the car, under the center console area)--this kept the vehicle drivable.
Since his adjustments, it was drivable, but it just seemed to be shifting hard.
OVERHAUL/CONTEXT:- drained fuel tank via fuel tank drain plug and replaced rubber crush washer with nylon and high temp thread sealant
- updated in-line fuel filter with WIX
- replaced with new fuel and royal purple Max Atomizer to clean the system
- addressed a heat soak issue with a DEI thermal blanket and a new 4 Gauge cable from the wiring harness
- attempted to run a 100A continuous external solenoid to further combat the heat soak issue but ultimately abandoned the idea when the first few attempts were unsuccessful (maybe I'll reattempt one day)
- did coolant flush (radiator drain plug and out bleeder on driver side of engine near firewall) with 14 Gallons of Distilled water and 2 Cans of Prestone Cooling System Cleaner (replaced with Zerex red Asian concentrate and diluted to 50|50 and ensured to burp the system)
- checked for old hoses (no bulges or leaks)
- bled the brakes since my brother replaced the brake booster ("A-Premium Power Brake Booster 4461060620")... That was a FUN process. The LSPV is such a delight... let me tell y'all. I watched a video saying go in order of PR, LSPV, DR, PF, DF--but when that was unsuccessful for me (air in lines, lspv seemed to choke off flow to the back, old fluid had degraded and I was thinking there blocks in the flow of things, and I was getting by some fluid bypass on the threads of my bleeder screw for the PR) I came up with my own plan to basically flood the back brakes --> 3 bleeder contraptions (LSPV, PR, and DR) with all 3 bleeder screws slightly open at once, permatex high temp thread sealant on the bleeder screw for PR, and I adjusted the 2 nuts on the LSPV to sit higher on the bolt so that the system would allow more hydraulic pressure on the back drums when braking. I successfully purged the system of air with all 3 slightly open and closed off all 3 while rolling around on creeper in the area where the spare tire would be. The "flood front" method I came up with seemed to work.
- I checked the engine oil and it appeared fine (color and level) and I figured since it had way less than 3k miles driven since I last changed it it would be fine (not to mention an extended life Mobil filter)
- I checked the transmission dipstick and it was fine (color and level).