$870 for front brake job?

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bhicks

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So I ordered some front brembo rotors and the wagner premium ceramic pads from rockauto. Then pulled the tires off the 100 and found the rotors to not be free floating. Apparently I had to take apart the outer hub to get the rotor off. That sucks. I had to do that on my 80 and was keeping my fingers crossed that this would not be the case on the 100. I then go onto youtube and watched a "how to" video and realized I needed a few tools and a LOT more time put aside for this job. I don't have that time right now so I got on the phone with my local Toyota dealership and they quoted me $870 for the front brakes. That seems insane. Is that accurate and I'm just clueless to how expensive a brake job is on a 100, or are they ripping me off?
 
The dealer price is why we do the work ourselves (when we can)
 
That's a hefty price for just labor...

I had my front pads/rotors replaced at a Toyota dealership (on an LX), and paid a tad bit less than what you were quoted with parts included. If you want a nice laugh, ask a Lexus dealer what their quote is on a front pad/rotor replacement is :)

Granted, it really is a PITA to replace the front rotors, those cone washer things are nearly impossible to get out without the proper tools.
 
$870 only for labor? How do they get away with that?

If you can, make the time to do these yourself, if you have the banana capability and save yourself some money for new parts.
 
$870 only for labor? How do they get away with that?

If you can, make the time to do these yourself, if you have the banana capability and save yourself some money for new parts.

Not just labor. They would not allow me to provide my own rotors and pads. I would have to return those or use them on the next brake job. The $870 was for two front rotors and pads installed.
 
So at that cost I WILL be doing my own brakes. So I have a couple questions. What size socket is needed to remove the outer and inner hub nut. Looks like it's around 54mm which is huge. Also, do I have to replace any of the washers, snap ring, etc. or just reuse the factory parts? I don't want to get into this job and then realize I don't have all the parts. Finally was is the factory torque spec for the hub nuts when reassembling?
 
54mm hub socket, pages SA11-17 of the FSM, duck bill snap ring pliers, bearing grease such as M1, degreaser, rags, torque wrench, BFH with 3/8 drift or brass hammer, 2x flange gaskets, 2x inner oil seals and a couple of hours if it's your first time on a 100. The FSM pages I quoted identifies the other bits and pieces Toyota states are "single use only" and you can replace those if so inclined.
 
Cone washer dealt with yesterday.
Penetrating oil night before.
Easy bang around the flanges.
I don't hit the studs, had to replace some before.
Propane torch each to heat up.
Soak again with penetrating oil.
Take a plier to grab the cones and wiggle them loose. Heating up allowed the oil to really losen them it seems. Good luck and don't forget to remember how all anti rattles fit and two retaining springs. Polish the pins and lube as well.
 
54mm hub socket, pages SA11-17 of the FSM, duck bill snap ring pliers, bearing grease such as M1, degreaser, rags, torque wrench, BFH with 3/8 drift or brass hammer, 2x flange gaskets, 2x inner oil seals and a couple of hours if it's your first time on a 100. The FSM pages I quoted identifies the other bits and pieces Toyota states are "single use only" and you can replace those if so inclined.

That's a lot more parts then I was thinking. I better give Beno or CDan a call and get that stuff ordered. Those parts aren't showing up on rockauto or the other parts supplier I normally use.
 
You can replace everything Toyota recommends or most likely just get away with 2x 43422-60070 gaskets at $1.50 ea or so and 2x 710456 seals (moog/federal mogul/national oil seal) from autozone at $12 ea. Up to you if you want to go all in or bare minimum. I'll do a full parts replacement next time round.
 
54mm hub socket, pages SA11-17 of the FSM, duck bill snap ring pliers, bearing grease such as M1, degreaser, rags, torque wrench, BFH with 3/8 drift or brass hammer, 2x flange gaskets, 2x inner oil seals and a couple of hours if it's your first time on a 100. The FSM pages I quoted identifies the other bits and pieces Toyota states are "single use only" and you can replace those if so inclined.

That's a lot more parts then I was thinking. I better give Beno or CDan a call and get that stuff ordered. Those parts aren't showing up on rockauto or the other parts supplier I normally use.
For OEM, my independent mechanic charges around $400 for parts and labor.

At $400, that is a lot easier to handle. I will call my local mechanic that I have used in the past and see what he quotes. I will also call yota masters in corona and see what they will charge.
 
FWIW: Ask your indy mechanic how they intend to bleed the ABS circuit...
 
Buying quality parts, having a reliable repair manual and studying the information on this site, will allow you to do it yourself and literally save thousands on labor. "If you want to do it yourself." Some don't and that's ok.
 
So at that cost I WILL be doing my own brakes. So I have a couple questions. What size socket is needed to remove the outer and inner hub nut. Looks like it's around 54mm which is huge. Also, do I have to replace any of the washers, snap ring, etc. or just reuse the factory parts? I don't want to get into this job and then realize I don't have all the parts. Finally was is the factory torque spec for the hub nuts when reassembling?
54mm. depending on condition of the bearing and age of them you might want to get those done too. you can reuse the snaping and stuff like thats
 
I'd tell that dealership to kiss my a**. Lexus did mine and repacked the front bearings all for $525 out the door (I provided parts).
 
Buying quality parts, having a reliable repair manual and studying the information on this site, will allow you to do it yourself and literally save thousands on labor. "If you want to do it yourself." Some don't and that's ok.
^this

I did my first brake job ever on this truck front and rear, rotors and pads.

Their are a lot of posts on this, it's in the FAQ, and FSM, has all the torque specs.

After this you will be ready for a wheel bearing repack.
 
I'd tell that dealership to kiss my a**. Lexus did mine and repacked the front bearings all for $525 out the door (I provided parts).

870 included parts and labor. To be honest its not a bad deal. Then again I am usually the one on the receiving end. We have bills to pay too. lol

And you would want to repack the bearing while you're in there too...
 
870 included parts and labor. To be honest its not a bad deal. Then again I am usually the one on the receiving end. We have bills to pay too. lol

And you would want to repack the bearing while you're in there too...

Oops, didn't see that! I take it that was for brakes ONLY, no bearing repack.
 
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