Build 87 Wagon build “The Hashbox”

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 25, 2026
Threads
1
Messages
22
Location
Alaska
Been using the website for quite some time getting answers for most any Land Cruiser questions I had as I’ve been assembling parts for my dream fj60 build. The plan has changed and evolved a couple times but is now past the point of making major changes and well into fabrication. This won’t be your normal fj60 restoration as my friend and I that are working on this project are a little more into off-roading and adventuring but I definitely think it will be a one of a kind FJ60 by the time it’s done.

for a little back story, my buddy and I bought this 87 Land Cruiser in maybe summer of 2020 with the intention of using for hunting in Alaska so we spring it over, put a lunch box locker in the rear and went on an Alaskans moose hunt some 80 miles off-road each way. By the time we returned the back portion of the frame was wrecked form some poorly added bump stops last minute and it was established that while the original motor was a fun motor to run, it wasn’t up to the task. When we returned front the hunt we started collecting parts.

For axles we elected to go with fusion 4x4 custom fabricated axles using a gearworks high pinion 10” diff in the front and gearworks low pinion diff in the rear. 5.43 gear ratio, chromo 35 spline axle shafts inner and outer, Reid kingpin knuckles, northwestfab hydro steer arms, warn hubs, arb air lockers. Differential offset to match original FJ60 output on each, 69” WMS (was planning to keep fj60 t case in the fold so we matched the diff offset front and back, but plans change and my rear driveline just has a extra bit of angle)

Motor we decided on is a 5.3 L LS motor, sub15,000 miles, th400 trans with reverse pattern, manual shift valve body with engine braking and for a transfer case, instead of using the stock Land Cruiser tcase and the black box from northwestfab, we decided to get an atlas 4spd t case.

For the rear suspension we are putting in 63” Chevy leafs, 2.5” king triple bypass shocks, and 2.5” x 2.5” king bump stops. Leaf springs will be outboarded as will the shocks (extensive reworking of wheel wells and tub)

The front will be a 3-link with a panhard, 2.5” x 14” king coilovers, psc full hydro steering

For wheels we are running 17” method bead locks, with 43” Mickey Thompson Baja Pro XS tire.

We are upgrading to hydro boost brakes as well.

Shout out to Cruiser Matt’s off road, his engine mounts worked out great

At this point we are sitting at engine, trans, t-case mounted, 3 links and the pan hard are fabricated, and working on the shocks and bump stops. Will post some pictures below to get everything up to current. We’ve been saving and collecting for this project for a long time and it’s great to actually get it going. Neither of us is rich by any means, we are both construction workers, we’ve been collecting this pile of parts for what seems like a lifetime and it’s exciting to finally be making visual progress.
 
Pre sprung over with 35’s on it this is what it looked like.
Resized_20200628_195411_274508977023197.webp
Resized_20200711_073919_274508717275125.webp


before our first hunting that we took it on we sprung it over, built a roof rack and installed a locker and high steering kit.

Resized_20200829_132913_274508377833146.webp
Resized_20200826_195007.webp


At this stage, it was really pretty impressive how capable of a vehicle this was, we put I through the ringer on our trip and while it was in major need of an overhaul it out on a brutal 160 mile off-roading trip and did really well considering it was very underpowered, didn’t like long sustained steep grades and was basically stock.

the following Christmas we had some time off and decided to tear into the rebuild. Motor and transmission went into the trash and cut the back half of the frame off to rebuild

Resized_20200826_195007.webp
 
Pre sprung over with 35’s on it this is what it looked like. View attachment 4110276View attachment 4110277

before our first hunting that we took it on we sprung it over, built a roof rack and installed a locker and high steering kit.

View attachment 4110284View attachment 4110285

At this stage, it was really pretty impressive how capable of a vehicle this was, we put I through the ringer on our trip and while it was in major need of an overhaul it out on a brutal 160 mile off-roading trip and did really well considering it was very underpowered, didn’t like long sustained steep grades and was basically stock.

the following Christmas we had some time off and decided to tear into the rebuild. Motor and transmission went into the trash and cut the back half of the frame off to rebuild

View attachment 4110286
 
Smashed up frame from last minute bad planning
Resized_20220107_182013.webp
Resized_20220107_182007.webp

Cut location for the rebuild
Resized_20220107_181233.webp


Frame going back together
Resized_20220108_102638.webp
Resized_20220108_102645.webp
 
Pics of the frame fully plated
Resized_20220108_153729.webp
Resized_20220108_153701.webp
Resized_20220108_184601.webp
Resized_20220108_184544.webp


At this point we got all the welding finished up and got the body resting back on it and connected the mounts that weren’t cut off and put the project on standby while we collected parts. Sometime between then and now, circumstances changed, we didn’t quite have the same access to the shop as we used to due to change of employer and had to start out$ourcing the fabrication work as we don’t have a shop and fabricating tools and working outside in Alaska doing metal fab just isn’t much fun 9 months of the year, either cold, rainy, or cold and rainy. You could definitely do it, I’m just not into that any more.

Gotta run for now, will post pics later this evening showing the current progress and powertrain and suspension. Hope you enjoy so far
 
Ambitous fother muckers you are. Of course we enjoy, we're living our fabricating lives thru your endevors. Welcome to mud :flipoff2:
Pics of the frame fully plated
View attachment 4110305View attachment 4110306View attachment 4110307View attachment 4110308

At this point we got all the welding finished up and got the body resting back on it and connected the mounts that weren’t cut off and put the project on standby while we collected parts. Sometime between then and now, circumstances changed, we didn’t quite have the same access to the shop as we used to due to change of employer and had to start out$ourcing the fabrication work as we don’t have a shop and fabricating tools and working outside in Alaska doing metal fab just isn’t much fun 9 months of the year, either cold, rainy, or cold and rainy. You could definitely do it, I’m just not into that any more.

Gotta run for now, will post pics later this evening showing the current progress and powertrain and suspension. Hope you enjoy so far
Ambitous fother muckers you are. Of course we enjoy, we're living our fabricating lives thru your endevors. Welcome to
 
So frame is repaired, body is kind of back on, and 5 agonizing years of researching, saving, collecting and endless hours of day dreaming later we basically had the pile of things listed above in hand and were ready to get going on the fun part of the process.

So with the help of some motor mounts I likely found on this site we took the Land Cruiser over to another friend of mine to get the motor hanging


Resized_20260113_191332.webp


My friend mounting the motor is more of a hot rod guy and he’s not used to thinking about front driveshafts and 14” travel coil overs so the giant cross member doesn’t make the cut long term. It’s pretty wild how much smaller the V8 is than the original straight 6. The 4.2 was long and heavy.
Resized_20260114_192201.webp


Th400 and Atlas 4spd required a bit of modification to the tunnel, we machined down the front and rear axle atlas shifters to get them to sit a little further from the dash when engaged as they would not get a full throw as they were too close to the dash to engage when in low.
Resized_20260119_180801.webp


tunnel going back together
Resized_20260121_154213.webp

Resized_20260121_154627.webp


In the above picture we left that whole in the center and will make a removable hatch so that when we need to drop the t case it’s really easy, we can run a cherry picker through the door and run a strap around it so that we don’t have to get it to the ground with our backs.
 
A FJ60 is an interesting choice for going out hunting and potentially dragging home large animals
Yeah, a pickup has the advantage of the bed being easy access, an SUV has the advantage of everything inside of it being dry. Where we hunt there’s at least 80 river crossings, countless swamps and it likes to rain in Alaska. Pickups are awesome as they are lighter and the bed is very versatile, I just decided I like dry gear more. Bigger tires and more horsepower can offset a little weight disadvantage
 
Tunnel fully put back together, all the handles clear and sit well for the tcase and it looks like the shifter will fit nicely on that strip of real-estate next to the drivers seat

Resized_20260122_163501.webp

Shifter spots welded up, trans cover is back on
Resized_20260122_161646.webp

Art Carrs winters shifter. This one is for a 4L80e, wide open design shipped the wrong one by accident. Shipped the new one as soon as we were able to get ahold of them but we are holding off on installing this until after the driveline and upper link are in place. If you’ve never used wide open design I would recommend them, always been good to order stuff from, responsive when you have issues.
Resized_20260123_120811.webp


Camero radiator fit very nicely. Custom mounts had to be made be wasn’t much trouble and we used all readily available parts from autozone
Resized_20260122_190255.webp


Electric radiator fan. Will eventually be on a switch that allows us to shut it off during water crossings but the work automatically when the switch isn’t active. Fans and deep water crossings don’t work well.
Resized_20260123_165833.webp
 
Trans cooler and hydro steer cooler both mounted in front of the radiation and fans

Resized_20260126_195319.webp


Wide open design hydro boos brake pump. The kit came with a foot pedal and was meant for more of a tube buggy but it was pretty easy to adapt it directly into the fj60 fire wall and make it work with the stock brake pedal. Kind of nice cuz it’s less work but automatic probably have a bigger brake pedal cuz that’s kinda nice to. But, sometimes you compromise

Resized_20260119_161820.webp
Resized_20260119_161805.webp


PSC hydro steer reservoir and hydro boost brakes Plummed together
Resized_20260126_195330.webp
 
For the most part at this point it was as far as we could take it before we did work on the suspension so we got it ready to go to the fab shop by giving it a little front and rear fender trim to accommodate the new shoes and shocks. In an effort to save some money and to make sure the fab guys understands we are serious about keeping the same ride height on 43’s as we had on 35’s we took quite a bit of fender out of the front and rear. Front axle will be about 5 inches further forward, rear axle about 8 inches back of stock, roughly 120” wheel base when all done. Rear wheel well is gonna look a little different but form follows function so that stuff had do go. Rear quarter panel had some rust as did the front, we got most of it cut out

IMG_0957.webp
IMG_0961.webp
IMG_0960.webp


A little fuel for the imagination for what it might look like when it’s done
IMG_0958.webp
IMG_0962.webp
 
So we got it loaded on a trailer and hauled over to the fab guys shop and he got started on cutting the axles off

79479363524__4483963A-EBD0-4A54-9650-B6B927BBB22A.webp


New axles hanging underneath of it to get an idea of how everything is going to sit
79496632030__BA6F70DD-E534-4D36-A74A-629E4F58B437.webp


Caster is going to be somewhere close to 6, maybe 7 if it needs to be but 6 would put the pinion output level
79514004431__9E5C78F9-463F-4DCF-9181-6C73536ED030.webp


Hydro steer clearance is going to be an issue no doubt. Probably will not be able to mount the ram to the hydro arm and will instead have to mount to the double shear bolt. Not what I wanted but we should have rebuilt the front part of the frame as well and made the hoop where the axles goes 2 to 3 inches higher. Would have gained us probably 1 inch lower ride height and made the front axle clearances much simpler. But hey, this is our first time and nothings perfect.
79488403844__CC32619F-CB43-4A3B-AA80-5D15DCAD63B1.webp


T case output sitting mostly level. Close enough. For tolerances any ways
IMG_2482.webp
 
Mock up links are going in. Looking like about 40” length on the lower link, ~10 degree rise from axle at ride, upper link is right about 30” length, 10” separation at the axle, 6” at the frame
IMG_2485.webp
IMG_2494.webp



IMG_2495.webp


IMG_1280.webp
IMG_1283.webp


If we are aloud to post videos and someone can explain to me how to do it I have a couple walk around videos of the front end as it progresses but I couldn’t figure out a way to post them so I moved on
 
Pan hard gettin figured out pretty tight clearances when you stuff the passenger side. Will have to set the bumps so it stops just shy of the passenger side frame rail.

IMG_2550.webp


Pan hard length is also right at 40”, sitting at about 7 degrees at ride height. 2”x .250 DOM for all then links and pan hard. All of the links are now set in steel. Not fully welded but good enough we can cycle and clearance. Seems that to this point my buddy at KM Fab is doing a pretty nice job. We asked for a geometry that leaned toward stability and durability and to this point it t seems like we are on track. So far the geometry calculators have been giving us numbers we are pleased with. Can’t say for sure yet as there are still a few things to figure out that we have been estimating but so far it seems like the front suspension is on track
IMG_2555.webp
IMG_2549.webp


Exhaust guy has his work cut out for him though. Upper link is deadly close to the exhaust manifold at full stuff and about 1/4 from eating the power steering pump
IMG_1216.webp
IMG_1215.webp
 
Starting to cycle things. Front stuffed passenger dropped
IMG_1287.webp


Diff foil cap is gonna have to be turned down a bit to get max clearance. Either that or we put a bit of a bend into the pan hard but I think we are just gonna turn it down. It’s gonna be pretty guarded by the hydro ram mount.
IMG_1288.webp


Full droop passenger side.
IMG_1290.webp


IMG_1289.webp


Earlier I posted a picture showing how tight the driveline was. Ordered a driveline last week from Tom Woods, 44.5”, 2.5” DOM, 1350 unjoints on each end, holy smokes, it showed up freaky fast for a driveline that was completely custom and man does it just clear the transmission pan. At full stuff it’s about 1/2” from the pan. Closer than I would like but it is what it is. If the driveline blows up it could be ugly. The original plan was to run the Land Cruiser tcase and buying the atlas was really kind of a last minute impulse decision that worked out by half an inch.
 
Full stuff passenger, full droop driver
IMG_1286.webp
IMG_1285.webp


So close where the pan hard comes under the frame at full stuff. May have to sleeve it out potentially for a bit of a factor of safety but we will see
IMG_1284.webp


Well for now that basically it, we are all caught up. Bump stop cans arrive tomorrow, fab guy should be working on the shock towers and getting the coils mounted, should hopefully have a bit of another update for you guys some time early next week. Hoping by end of next week that the front end is totally done and burnt into place. But for you, hope you enjoyed checking it out and enjoy the wait with me.
 
Back
Top Bottom