'83 FJ60 with Banks Turbo 6.2 GM Diesel

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Joined
Mar 3, 2006
Threads
142
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1,782
Location
Everett, WA
Website
www.torfab.com
Well, I've been working on this project for a month now, and haven't posted anything on MUD about the progress. Since we all feed from the same knowlege, I thought I would start a thread to explain my project and it's kinks (so far).

I'm building a dented up 1983 FJ60 with a somewhat recently rebuilt 6.2 diesel, Banks Sidewinder Turbo, NV4500 Transmission, rebuilt H41 transfer case, and stock axles.

Later down the road I will be retrofitting an FZJ80 suspension system, leather interior kit, arb bull bar with winch, and tow bumper with spare tire mount.

That's it for now, I'll add more later.

Pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/torski/60SeriesBuild#
 
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Someday I would like to add a turbo to mine. So I'll be paying attention to this thread.
Will be interested in seeing how the turbo fits. Also how the crossover pipe that goes between the manifolds fits.
 
Someday I would like to add a turbo to mine. So I'll be paying attention to this thread.
Will be interested in seeing how the turbo fits. Also how the crossover pipe that goes between the manifolds fits.

X2 on the fit .. and how much boost recomeds banks for those engines ?

Supose to go huge exhaust .. something like 4" ?
 
As for the build, I bought the car with the 6.2, nv4500 and a bellhousing. The chevy bellhousing was immediately out, due to the fact that the clutch was on the passenger side which blocked the driveline and would make it undriveable.

I ordered an AA bellhousing from Georg here on Mud for a SBC 350 to NV4500. The starter on the 6.2 is larger, so I had to grind out the opening for fitment.

The other benefit of the AA bellhousing is the external clutch slave cylinder. The chev bell has an internal slave, and would be difficult to adjust etc...

My NV4500 is a 1996+ GM unit, there are other ones, like pre '96 GM, and a slough of Dodge ones. There are benefits to each version of the transmission, so get the one that fits your needs best.

Since mine is post '96, it's fully synchronized and will be smoother - which is nice since it's a daily driver / tow rig.
 
X2 on the fit .. and how much boost recomeds banks for those engines ?

Supose to go huge exhaust .. something like 4" ?

GM does not recommend more than 10psi of boost for the 6.2, as for the exhaust - 4" is a bit overkill unless you're building a dragster. 3" should be perfect, and will leave just enough back pressure to maintain the proper torque necessary for towing and wheeling.
 
GM does not recommend more than 10psi of boost for the 6.2, as for the exhaust - 4" is a bit overkill unless you're building a dragster. 3" should be perfect, and will leave just enough back pressure to maintain the proper torque necessary for towing and wheeling.

I would ask the same question that Wayne askme few years ago ..

Backpresure in a turbo aplication . ?

Anycase I would be happy to follow the banks recomendations .. the experts.
 
I mounted the engine 1" to the drivers side, and spaced the steering box 1" from the frame. Then made a standard single post transmission mount with 1x2" bracket between the frames.

The rear driveshaft will need to be shortened by 2", and front lengthened.

I also had to cut a hole in the floor for the shifter

Then removed all the wiring from the 6.2 and ran all new wiring to remove confusion. While having a wilson switch for the glow plugs, and toggle fast idle, most of that wiring is unnecessary.

The next challenge is my banks Turbo, which I got with missing parts from a buddy in exchange for electrical work on his LJ73
 
Here is a picture of the assembled engine on my garage floor just before installing it.
60 Series 011.webp
 
Make sure you pre-fit your radiator and shroud before you go too much further. I just eyeballed mine and it was off by about an inch so I couldn't use the fan clutch. I ended up going with an electric fan set-up which I might like better anyway but it is $500 I may not have had to spend if I had gone to the trouble of pre-fitting it.
Good luck, it is looking great.
Rusty
 
Make sure you pre-fit your radiator and shroud before you go too much further. I just eyeballed mine and it was off by about an inch so I couldn't use the fan clutch. I ended up going with an electric fan set-up which I might like better anyway but it is $500 I may not have had to spend if I had gone to the trouble of pre-fitting it.
Good luck, it is looking great.
Rusty

Good comment Rusty, I'm a bit nervous about that. I've done the fitment, and it's leaving about 1" of space between the fan and radiator. The only issue I have is that I mounted the engine low due to center of gravity, but the fan is now only 1/4 inch from the lower water hose.

I may move the radiator to the passenger side 1/2 inch to make some extra room. Also, I have an electric fan, ready to go if I decide to use it. It's from a ford Taurus, and costs 15$ at the junk yard. I have the same fan in my fj40, and it runs nice and cool - even on the low speed setting.
 
well, she's running under her own power. here's a vid:

YouTube - 1983 Toyota FJ60 with Banks Turbo 6.2 diesel

the exhaust was excellent for the money, and the engine runs fairly smooth. After getting the fenders bolted on, I had to power bleed the brakes, clearance for a new radiator.

I used a chev diesel silverado radiator, because it's thinner and allows for the use of my mechanical fan. Not to mention the fan would kill the lower hose on the stock radiator.

I also had do do some right side fender clearancing for the turbo and air filter.

Here are some pictures of the project.

http://picasaweb.google.com/torski/60SeriesDieselProject
 
I am consistently getting 20 mpg running 2000 rpm in my 6.2 80 without turbo, what tire size are you running? Seems like you should be able to get into the low 20's from my expience.
Rusty
 
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