80 Won't Start...complicated?

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jamba256

jamba256

10 Year
Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Threads
8
Messages
142
Location
VA
Website
www.nashvillesdead.com
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Hey all,

I have been on the site for a while , mostly in the 40s section and mostly reading. My wife and i got the bug to start doing long trips and maybe even intercontinental travel, so we bought an 80. I've always wanted one so, it made sense. A local guy was selling for $4500 and after an excellent multi-day test drive, i was sold. It needs some minor cosmetic stuff, and i don't think the head gasket or PHH has been done yet, but it seemed like a good deal with no rust and 175k on the clock.

Immediately following my purchase, I had to go on orders for the Reserves for a month, and i asked my wife to take it out and drive for the day or so about two weeks in. She told me "it won't start...but all the lights are on." I immediately thought it was the battery, and i ended up getting a new one just for reliability sake.

She was right, upon trying to turn over the motor, there isn't any cranking from the starter or anything.Some accessory lights on the dash illuminate when I am trying to start but to no avail(in photos). I took apart the dash and saw that there is a Viper remote start and security system installed (771vx if anyone has familiarity with these), there is a clicking, which i find is in a relay under the dash but not in the kick panel, it is clicking but i don't know what it does or if it is good or not.

I'm guessing it is either the starter contacts, starter solenoid, or starter relay. Or, it has something to do with the remote start or security system installed. I haven't checked the starter or solenoid yet, but it could be those. As i said, no sound of trying to turn over and just a clicking of the relay i included a photo of.

I have the 1996 FZJ80 EWD and FSM, but I'm still very new at electrical stuff.

Also, would it be prudent to try and remove the Viper system? I want the electrics to be as reliable as possible for the long haul.

Thanks in advance, everyone. Yes, I used the search function for about a month before posting :-)

If the photos are jacked up, its because I'm using an ipad for this for the first time.
 
Make sure the shifter is all the way in 'park'. Or trip the neutral safety switch under the little plastic cap and try cranking it.

Might help.
 
It could be the following things:
1) Starter solenoid not engaging and being "stuck". Sometimes a swirft smack with a hammer on the side of the starter can make it work.
2) Fusible Link blown. There are fusible links on the positive batttery post with 3 leads. About $15, replace to confirm. Only available from Toyota.
3) Viper Alarm system. Find the Valet Button to see if it will start after activating that. Remove the alarm system if it cannot be identified in order to remove the possibility.
4) Battery Cable to the starter. Sometimes they lose their conductivity on the ends. Replace to fix.

Good luck!
 
jamba256 said:
All, thank you for the help, so much.

@BILT4ME thanks for the logical approach to troubleshooting. What exactly does valet mode do?
Click to expand...


Usually there is a valet button under the dash to allow the valet to drive the vehicle to and from the parking area while the owner retains the alarm fob. It is so a valet can drive it.....essentially a system defeat.

Look under the left side of the dash for a small button that is unmarked or "hidden", press it, then try to start it. Or maybe press and hold while trying to start it.

Others with Viper alarms can chime in on this.

I ripped out my alarm system because of all the problems it caused.
 
I started using the T/S procedures outlined in @Irish Reiver's post/link.

FWIW, I took the relay (ND 056700-8570/12V) which is clicking after trying to turn the engine over, and there is no more click, and the dash does not illuminate the extra lights which it did with the relay in place. I'm assuming it works as expected, and something downstream of the relay is the issue.

according to the post previously spoken of, it is the "starter cut relay."

i expect to check the starter this afternoon, depending on whether I can get it moved to a hard surface or not.
 
Also, @BILT4ME, I was wondering how difficult it is to remove the Viper system altogether--it seems like the electrical system will be altogether more reliable for the long run that way. Since I didn't install it, I'm not sure how tough it is to take off.
 
jamba256 said:
Also, @BILT4ME, I was wondering how difficult it is to remove the Viper system altogether--it seems like the electrical system will be altogether more reliable for the long run that way. Since I didn't install it, I'm not sure how tough it is to take off.
Click to expand...

Depending on the installer, it could be unplug and play.

I had the factory alarm on mine, so I started at the alarm module under the driver's seat, then pulled the wiring harness and unplugged the alarm from both sides, then replugged the two halves of the harness back together, and just kept going down the harness until I found the end of the last wire.

You can also find a local Viper installer and ask them to remove it and MAYBE sell it back to them for a few $$.

It took me about 2-1/2 hours because I took my time and I thought one wire was going to the neutral safety switch (NSS) under the center console, but it went through and across to the glove box and it turned out to be an antennae wire only.

It was easy to remove the 4 bolts for the driver's seat. I also removed the panels below the steering column so I could see what I was doing. So.....while I was in there, I did the Pin 7 mod, added a CDL switch, and changed the steering column rag joint and firewall seal. That added another 1-1/2 hours to what was listed above.
 
Still doing t/s right now.

A few questions:

1) does the 95 FZJ80 have a starter relay? I can't see evidence of it in the electrical wiring diagram or fsm but part numbers for one exist.

2) I'm used to clip in and clip out fusible links from the 40. How are these fusible links connected?

3) is soldering bad for car electronics? I've read that the vibration makes other connection methods better.

Thanks again!
 
If you're not getting the engine light on key position RUN, don't overlook that it could be the EFI relay under the hood. This is a silver barrel relay about an inch in diameter inside the fuse block that controls the Electronic Fuel Injection. When it sticks (open), it prevents the engine from cranking. Try tapping the relay lightly with a screwdriver handle, first. That may free it up.

I had a similar no start issue prior to a club run years ago, and luckily someone in the club had a few extras in their glovebox. Popped in a new one and it started right up. Hope it's that simple for you,
 
Slow down here a second. When you turn the key to start do you get the check engine light? If you don't, the fusible links need replacing. The fusible links are the three wires coming off the positive battery terminal. It takes five minutes to replace and these are a known issue if original after 20+ years. Buy two, keep one in your glove box.
 
LongDuck said:
If you're not getting the engine light on key position RUN, don't overlook that it could be the EFI relay under the hood. This is a silver barrel relay about an inch in diameter inside the fuse block that controls the Electronic Fuel Injection. When it sticks (open), it prevents the engine from cranking.
Click to expand...
Incorrect. The EFI circuit is completely separate from the starter circuit. You could take the the entire EFI system along with the ECU and put it in the back seat and the starter will still crank.
 
One simple thing to check, make sure the battery power lead to the starter connection is tight, this was a simple fix for my intermittent starting issue right after I bought my 80 - LX450.
 
jamba256 said:
Still doing t/s right now.

A few questions:

1) does the 95 FZJ80 have a starter relay? I can't see evidence of it in the electrical wiring diagram or fsm but part numbers for one exist.

2) I'm used to clip in and clip out fusible links from the 40. How are these fusible links connected?

3) is soldering bad for car electronics? I've read that the vibration makes other connection methods better.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
In a stock configuration, no 80 Series ever had a starter relay.
The 80 Series fusible links are a group of 3 wires connected to the positive battery terminal with a single lug. 2 of the wires go to the small junction box about 6" off the battery and the 3rd goes to a grey connector.
It all can be seen and purchased here from Joey:
Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
Fuseable Link Junction Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser
 
Relay is marked on my 96 underhood fusebox as "EFI MAIN". Must be covered under the Main part of that circuit, becuse swapping in a known good relay fixed it.
 
RGR thanks gents. I have been busy with work and a sick family, I'll try all relays and check the FLs with a multimeter this afternoon.

Thanks again everyone, I'll let you know what happens.

I wish I hadn't started tearing out the Viper system before hopping to other parts for troubleshooting...:poop:
 
jamba256 said:
RGR thanks gents. I have been busy with work and a sick family, I'll try all relays and check the FLs with a multimeter this afternoon.

Thanks again everyone, I'll let you know what happens.

I wish I hadn't started tearing out the Viper system before hopping to other parts for troubleshooting...:poop:
Click to expand...
What was the final verdict on this?
 
I lost track in these threads. I'm having the one click problem. Sometimes it starts right up an once, just a click. Heading up to the Sierras with the family so not a problem to having.
What's the preferred starter ? I've got a 93 FZ.-- Thanks Dan
 
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