80 series steering box porting for hydro assist

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Oct 7, 2004
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first remove the tre from pitman

next remove pitman from sector shaftialready has factory match marks so dont worry

next remove the most distal bolt from ujoint going to input shaft. you must remove the bolt not just loosen. put matcmarks prior to pulling the ujoint off the input shaft

remove the 2 oil lines from the box

now unbolt the box and put it on the bench in a vice

now remove the 4 bolts holding down the scector shaft cover and remove the shaft

now take a 10 mm allen head and remove this thing in pic

now go to the input shaft and turn it clockwise till it bottoms out. remove the 4 bolts holting on its cover and pull the input shaft assembly out. the o-ring at the cover is tight so you may need a screw driver to get it started
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Oct 7, 2004
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you should have a pile of parts that look like this

now take a 7/16 bit and drill through the "a" in toyoda on the box

tap that hole with a 1/4 npt

now do the same thing to the box in this other place. go slow as you don't want to screw this second hole up. you can go too deep and trash the box
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you can see the second hole better here. dont be afraid to drill. take the hole (7/16) a little deeper than I did in the pic. if you dont your 1/4npt tap wont go in deep enough to get a good bite on the fitting and you will need to use one of those shallow taps or cut the bottom off your tap like I did

now waste 2 bottles of brake cleaner on your box to clean out all the shavings (fill the housing with papertowels as you drill to minimize the mess)

now just put it together. put the input shaft assembly in first and torque to 45 lbs. now put the scector shaft back in. note that the scector shaft has 3 teeth and the middle toth should mesh with the middle tooth of the input shaft assembly
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put the allen head thing back in with 15 ft/lbs and torque the pitman back on with 130 ft lbs. (line up the match marks)

I am waiting on the ram so the rest is pending
 
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Dusty is running a Dana 60 on the front which uses an 8" ram so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. You'll need a 10" ram to work with the stock steering parts.
 
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Dusty is running a Dana 60 on the front which uses an 8" ram so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. You'll need a 10" ram to work with the stock steering parts.

Is that 10" rear mounted? I thought I remembered someone saying that 8" would be needed if mounted on the front.
 
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Is that 10" rear mounted? I thought I remembered someone saying that 8" would be needed if mounted on the front.

That's a good one however unintended.

At any rate I know you'll need at least a 10" cylinder if mounted to the tie rod behind the axle. So as not to hammer the piston it may be necessary to use a 12" ram and shim it to the required length. If you're using the stock steering arms w/o Slee's high-steer I know of no way to mount a cylinder to the front side of the axle. I most certainly would not mount anything to the drag link or in place of the steering damper. That would be a recipe for major breakage.

That's bound to end up in somebody's sig line

I may be an ass but I'm not that mean to immortalize it in a signature.
 

Mace

rock scientist..
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Is there something in the way of the 80 series setup that prevents the mounting of the line to the physical end of the box??

Basicaly like this instead of the way you have it set up.

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im not sure if that way works or not. i know that plumbing it like that would make it difficult to run in an 80 without changing the oe brakeline position.

anyone else know?

i would not use larger than 1.5" ram as the 1.5 is almost too limiting for quick turning such as desert running. my ram still has no leaks and works great-and i didnt change a single seal. do it.
 

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