80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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The diff oil didn't have water in it but it was a little thicker than I expected (TWSS) so I suspect the inner axle seals are blown. The knuckles are just barely weeping grease though. I'm going to go ahead and do a knuckle job. The wheel bearings feel good as far as the wiggle the wheel test goes, but the brake caliper may be holding them.

Any theories on the rattling noise that occurs when coasting at 60+? Maybe the wheel bearings?

Diving in this afternoon. @wct49 I'll see you today or tomorrow for one of those kits. Its really cool to me that you have those kinds of parts on the shelf now.
 
Rattling could be worn slip yoke as someone mentioned. Maybe try and find a loaner shaft or lock cdl and drop the front and go for spin to see if it goes away ?
 
The diff oil didn't have water in it but it was a little thicker than I expected (TWSS) so I suspect the inner axle seals are blown. The knuckles are just barely weeping grease though. I'm going to go ahead and do a knuckle job. The wheel bearings feel good as far as the wiggle the wheel test goes, but the brake caliper may be holding them.

Any theories on the rattling noise that occurs when coasting at 60+? Maybe the wheel bearings?

Diving in this afternoon. @wct49 I'll see you today or tomorrow for one of those kits. Its really cool to me that you have those kinds of parts on the shelf now.
Greg, I don't know how often yours makes the noise, but mine has the same sort of noise, just not all the time. Rob tells me there's some sort of "hybrid" lift on mine, so I can't say for sure how high mine is lifted. Prolly similar to yours. Definitely have some sort of strange noise from time to time, and like with yours, it's almost exclusively on coasting in the 50+ mph range. Rob told me once that it's just a noise a lifted 80's gonna make.

Rattling could be worn slip yoke as someone mentioned. Maybe try and find a loaner shaft or lock cdl and drop the front and go for spin to see if it goes away ?
Jason has the right idea on how to tell for sure, especially if yours is making the noise frequently.
 
Any theories on the rattling noise that occurs when coasting at 60+? Maybe the wheel bearings?

My old 80 did something similar for a while... Turned out to be heat shield on the cats. It was a brief rattle/vibration when I let off the gas at highway speeds.
 
@jfz80 had a good quick diagnosis tip in dropping the shaft and seeing if the noise goes or stays.

@euclid if your gonna be there anyway, if you're in the 80, maybe see if Rob has a minute to ride to sonic and see if you can duplicate the noise for his keen ears.
 
Inner seals were both leaking so I'm glad I'm doing the knuckles. Thoughts on the heat marks on the birf? See pic. Anyone seen this? Chance that's the vibration?

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Diving in this afternoon. @wct49 I'll see you today or tomorrow for one of those kits. Its really cool to me that you have those kinds of parts on the shelf now.

Thanks, @euclid. We are adding to out inventory every month. @offr0adlim0 and I are working with @beno right now on adding several more thousand dollars in inventory.
 
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For those of you considering the LS swap with a 4L80e in your later 80 series, there is a difference between what you buy from Marks direct versus what you buy through Advanced Adapters: Rob ordered his direct, I ordered mine from AA
We both got different adapters even though we ordered the same part number
Rob's has no slot milled in the side for a speed sensor, mine from AA does have this option, but I already rebuilt my transmission and added a tone ring and speed sensor in the tranny, if you have a good transmission, you wouldn't have to do this with the adapter from AA,
The slot milled in the side of the large adapter housing is the only difference between the two offerings according to Marks, it's the ring part of the adapter that is the part that makes either one fit the 4L80e
 
Man while you have the shafts out go ahead and drop the diff and give it a good looking over.

Working with a bad shoulder at the moment, really don't want to pull the diff. If my gut was saying it's messed up then I probably would. Now that we've discussed it and I plan to skip that step I'm certain it's fxxxed.

Dang I really don't want to. So much more heavy work and I'm working with a sore shoulder.
Might be worth your time to swap birfs side to side too if you plan a bunch more street miles.

Will do. What's the theory here?
 
Working with a bad shoulder at the moment, really don't want to pull the diff. If my gut was saying it's messed up then I probably would. Now that we've discussed it and I plan to skip that step I'm certain it's ****ed.

Dang I really don't want to. So much more heavy work and I'm working with a sore shoulder.


Will do. What's the theory here?
Changes the wear points slightly if I had to guess....
 
Jeff is right. When birfs start to click you can often swap sides to get a bit more useable life out of them. I don't think yours are clicking yet but might be a good idea to swap them before they get there.
 
That front diff isn't as heavy as your 62's were. The steering link is a little in the way but I find it is a good resting spot to reposition once you get it out of the housing. No way I would want to pull those inner axles again when I was already this far apart.
 
Euclid,

I am pretty sure that the axle on your truck was rebuilt ~4 years ago or so and I know the birfs were swapped from one side to the other at that time. So I would probably not swap them now.

I also agree that you should probably pull the front driveshaft and lock the CDL to see if the rattle goes away.
 
I also agree that you should probably pull the front driveshaft and lock the CDL to see if the rattle goes away.


There is some value in doing this but with the drive flanges everything in the front end is still going to turn, just not under load. If you put some locking hubs on it you could get a lot more out of the process. I think pulling the third is easier at this point.
 
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