The goal of this build is to prove that something which is probably considered way too far gone is actually able to be brought back to reasonable condition with enough time, money and effort
As it sits as of 2/2
This picture basically sums how this is going to go: Rust and PB blaster
TLDR;
There is a lot of rust, will be lots of work just to get it back running and driving. I wanted a land cruiser project and I got one...
This will be a slow process but my goal is to document each sub-project as the whole thing inches towards being more complete.
My to do list/notes broken down into different categories in no particular order. This is by no means a comprehensive list just items I though of and wrote down. if there is anything critical or obvious let me know...
Get running
Mount rebuilt carb
Fire/idle with aux gas tank
Check gas tank inside for gunk
Get carb rebuild kit
Check fuel pump
Replace fuel filter
Check compression
Check spark plugs
Drop gas tank and clean/seal
Get driving
Diagnose clutch master/slave cylinders
Order full replacement master/slave/line kit
Install/bleed clutch system
Diagnose/bleed brake system
Trans case front output shaft: buy parts needed to fix transfer case
Verify parts that are there and what is needed
E brake adjustment
Wiring/lights
Headlights/brake lights/ blinkers
*Pass* smog
Stock air cleaner
Replace rubber lines hoses (fuel feed/return)
Proper desmog with as much visual eq. there as possible.
the accelerator pump was gone, when I first tried to gravity feed gas into the carb it just pour out from the accel pump shaft, which was when I realized it could probably use a rebuild.
It runs pretty rough and doesnt idle. I didnt connect any vacuum lines so that will be the next step. I was also just gravity feeding gas into the carb so that could have been why it wasnt running right. I want to check the plugs as well as compression to isolate any potential issues. Didn't check the timing either which could have been contributing?
when I bought the cruiser the PO said the main problem was that 'the clutch didnt work' that plus about 10 other things...The pedal would just go to the floor so I figured it just needed to be bled. While I was trying to bleed it the MC didn't look like it was moving any fluid or producing any bubbles. The system obviously needed to be rebuilt but after pricing out everything I needed I decided to go with a new kit from JTO.
UPDATE:
Made progress on the Tcase/front out put shaft issues. The truck came with a handful of spare parts and luckily there was a drive shaft with the flange and output shaft still bolted together. From the looks of it the main output bearing let go and was stuck on the shaft. Pressed what was left of the bearing off the and the shaft appeared to be okay. Did a fine media blast to get rid of the nasty rust and everything cleaned up well. I will have to check the shaft fit to the mating spines in the Tcase to make sure there isn't any other issues. After that get all the bearing and seals needed then reassemble and the drive line *should* be good enough to roll around on under its own power.
Nice build! I had a '79 FJ40 back in the early 90's and really enjoyed it. I sold it for the 10/77 I own now. I was wondering what type of media you are using in your blast cabinet? It leaves a really nice finish on the parts you pictured above. Good luck with the build.
Nice build! I had a '79 FJ40 back in the early 90's and really enjoyed it. I sold it for the 10/77 I own now. I was wondering what type of media you are using in your blast cabinet? It leaves a really nice finish on the parts you pictured above. Good luck with the build.
Future project prep: I got a set of disc knuckles which I will use when I go through the front axle/brakes/steering.
Next major activity rebuild the knuckles and swap over to front discs. In the process I think I am going to upgrade all of the steering to a high steer setup because I will be going to the larger studs/pattern on the 60 knuckles anyway.
I am not sure if what I have is the original axle because it should have come with discs stock correct?
All new bearings and seals for the output assembly. After I remount everything itll be one step closer to be able to drive. I just wish I could make the rest of the truck look as good as this!
One more picture of the old housing compared to the one I used from @kevos37. Thanks again, no way I was going to salvage the the messed up bearing bores and seal surface. Quick bead blasting treatment to get the surface looking like new.
I have not done much but recently I've been able to spend a bit more time putting everything back together. I have been slowly acquiring all the parts I need to do the front disc swap, here are the hubs before during after cleanup.
Now I need a rebuild kit, spindles, lockouts, birfs, lower knuckle caps, steering arms, discs/pads/rotors. The hunt continues...
Here is what the new output looks like installed. Filled the case up with oil and now I've got a leak coming from the rear dripping from the parking drum.
Anyone have a seal back there let go? I am guessing this leak was the root cause to why the front output spun a bearing, PO probably ran it dry? at any rate does anyone know what the assembly looks like behind the parking drum?
Update: Its been a while since I have posted anything here. I was stuggling for a while to get spark after doing a few minor unlated fixes to the truck. long story short the 79 igniter module was bad and I was able to replace it with a slightly newer version out of an fj60.
Thins ive done to get it in a test driveable state. Installed new clutch MC and slave, bled system. Replaced rear output seal on the Tcase and adjusted the parking brake. Cleaned up misc. wiring and smog lines. I was able to finally drive it down the steet, first time it has moved under its own power in a long time I am sure and first time I have ever driven a 40!
After the long battle of not getting spark I was too excited to take it for a spin it went down the street with screaming belts and massive exhast leak!
My to do list on it is still very long but at least I know it will move again!
Fuel System rebuild
One of the main items to tackle on this project is getting the fuel system working. I knew initially when I got it that there was no way the fuel system would be good enough to just dump in gas and run. I welded up a small .5 gal fuel cell and mounted it on the fire wall. The idea was to be able to be able to have gas to start it run it and check over various things going up and down the street.
First off I pulled the filler neck and all of the old crusty hoses off to be able to drop the tank. I started by cleaning up the filler neck to see if it woulf be salvagable.
started off wire wheeling the rust off to get it clean enough to put into the basting cabinet. It lookded good going in but looked like swiss cheese coming out. I ended up tigging all of the pin holes and did a leak check and seems to hold fine. I think it came out okay all things considered. The plan is to get it re-plated and then raptor liner the exterior for added protection.
I dropped the tank and pressure washed the inside as best I could, the outside cleaned up decently well. I got it to this point and dropped it off at a local radiator shop to boil and coat the inside. It started off looking pretty bad but the guy that runs the shop said hes seen way worse come out okay. The plan is to also raptor line the exterior of the tank when its done at the shop. The fuel pick up tube was completly shot and fell apart while trying to get the hoses off of it. I ordered a new sending unit and and all new gaskets from SOR. I could not find a new pick up/return assembly so I think I am going to fab up a stainless version of what was in there. Also I will be doing all new stainless hard lines which run from the tank to the pump.
Tank before pressure washing/ dipping and coating.
Seemed like the bottom rust wasnt too much rot/pitting coating will seal it up atfer being boiled
that plus about 10 other things...The pedal would just go to the floor so I figured it just needed to be bled. While I was trying to bleed it the MC didn't look like it was moving any fluid or producing any bubbles. The system obviously needed to be rebuilt but after pricing out everything I needed I decided to go with a new kit from JTO.
