79' FJ40 Continuous Cranking...

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Joined
Apr 28, 2005
Threads
17
Messages
183
got an issue with the 40 continuously cranking, even when i switch back to off and remove the key. i don't have it choked and no gas so it won't fire. i have to pull the battery terminal to stop it. i'll leave it sit for a minute, connect battery and try again, does the same thing.
the switch assembly looks great, cleaned connections and cleaned as best i could the inner plastic assembly of the switch... looks like the attached pic.

could it be a stuck starter solenoid or this ignition switch assembly??

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Could be either. Take them apart and clean them. Solenoid can have crap/dried grease in it. Big copper disk contacts will likely need dressed. I have had to "rebuild" my ignition switch several times over the last 40+ years.
 
To help isolate the problem, you could unplug your ignition switch pigtail, either before you reconnect your battery or while it's cranking.

If the problem is not the switch pigtail, have a very close look at the starter terminal connections. Maybe a stray wire strand is contacting the starter solenoid.

Also, the 79 has a cold start circuit that provides a full 12v to the coil during cranking (bypasses the in-harness resistor wire), with power supplied by the starter when engaged. Maybe that circuit is on the wrong starter lug?
 
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not sure what the next step is here but seem to have induced another issue while the original issue is fixed(I think). I had the solenoid replaced and tested good. I have good voltage and now when I crank it fires almost immediately and then dies. I’ve never had this issue before so this part is new. I’m wondering if all the cranking and testing has damaged something else. It almost seemed like it was starving for fuel but I disconnected the inlet to the carb and cranked it. Lots of fuel. I’ve noticed too I have way more smoke from the exhaust then I’ve ever seen before. Could the timing be completely out or damage in the cap?
 
when my 74’ does that … basically goes vrum then dies right out when I release the key from cranking… it’s the ignition fuse

I can’t recall if your engine fuse would do the same … haven’t looked into it’s wiring diagram

Worth a quick look though
 
Are the contact points inside the cap aluminum? Yes - look closely at them, is there a fat band of corrosion yes that's aluminum oxide an insulator - I use the small blade of a Swiss Army knife to scrape it off. I like caps with brass terminals.

Maybe you fouled the plugs - clean and gap them, make sure the center electrode is square to rod. Clean the outside cap contacts under the spark plug wire boot - then lightly lube the contact with dielectric grease applied with a q-tip.

Does it have breaker points - clean and adjust

Check and adjust valve lash and timing.

Use a can of WD-40 with a pee tube to quickly and lightly spray the intake gaskets on carb and manifold to check for vac leaks on a cold idling engine. Put a hemostat on the brake booster hose. #5 spark plug will run lean/hot with a vac booster leak.

Go out on the moon less night. Open the hood, start engine - look for dancing fire on spark plug wires - if you see/feel any sparks buy a set of new good wires. Inspect the inside of cap for arcing (thin black line that looks like a hairline crack - new cap
 
not sure what the next step is here but seem to have induced another issue while the original issue is fixed(I think). I had the solenoid replaced and tested good. I have good voltage and now when I crank it fires almost immediately and then dies. I’ve never had this issue before so this part is new. I’m wondering if all the cranking and testing has damaged something else. It almost seemed like it was starving for fuel but I disconnected the inlet to the carb and cranked it. Lots of fuel. I’ve noticed too I have way more smoke from the exhaust then I’ve ever seen before. Could the timing be completely out or damage in the cap?
Ditto, to verify that you have 12v at your coil+ with your ignition switch in the "on" position, but not cranking. If not, check your ignition fuse, or chase down any unconnected wires/connectors in that circuit.

As mentioned previously, if your 79 has stock wiring, 12v is delivered through an alternate resistor bypass circuit (from your starter when cranking). So, that circuit may be working and the primary ignition is not?
 
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checking in again ... ignition fuse and all other fuses for that matter look and test good. i'm not so sure about the ignition coil though. these are External Resistor required type coils. mine is showing a Select 1003 Part... obviously not original but the Resistor is. Would anyone know what type of internal resistance this Coil would show if it was still good? 1.5ohms is what it could be for the very limited info online. i just don't see the Select 1003 part listed anywhere. i'm seeing 1.1ohms on mine. this is after subtracting my meter resistance of .9ohms

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Don't get lost in the weeds. If the coil is good while the key is in the start position, it should be okay in the run position.

Did you verify that there is voltage at your coil+ with your ignition switch in the "on" position, but not cranking?

Another quick test of the coil/distributor/spark plugs is to run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal, and start the engine. This mimics the key in the "on" position, and bypasses the ignition path from the battery through the fuse and the ignition switch and all the wiring between them. Don't leave the jumper hooked up for long, the coil will overheat.
 
I don’t have 12v there at the coil but looking at the wiring I’m not sure if I ever did. It would only get 12v when ignition triggers the starter and closing that solenoid and supplying the other wire 12v back to the coil. I need to get a schematic and see if this is really the case on this year.
I like your suggestion of bypass. I will give it a try.
 
It may help if you better describe your current system, ie. what's oem and what's not. And when you suggested you may never have had 12v at coil+, what does that mean? Have you ever had your 79 running? Details would help here.

However, if...your 79 is still oem wrt ignition and bypass wiring, then yes, you should get 12v from the starter at the coil+ when cranking. The 79 schematic will confirm that. However, it should not continue to crank without the switch on (or with the switch unplugged).

If you also...don't get battery voltage at the coil+ with the ignition switch on, then that's another problem. Kinda strange you have both problems at the same time, maybe related?

You may want to think back to when everything worked as it should, to isolate what was done to the system to make things not work as it should. If something was changed, and then it stopped working properly, that's probably the source of your problems.

It seems like wires or connectors may have been swapped somewhere. Have a close look at your starter connections to make sure they are correct. One of those wires (heavier BW - black with white stripe) from the ignition switch, should have 12v on it only when the switch is in the "start" position. The other wire (also BW, but smaller gauge) goes to the to the coil+ ( bypass circuit).

On the coil+ you should also have a BY (black with yellow) wire from your ignition switch via your in-harness resistor wire. That should have 12v on it when the switch is "on".

If any of those voltages aren't there, then you'll have to trace those circuits back to where you do have the proper voltages.

You might also have a close look at your fuse block wiring, following the schematic and color coding. Maybe two of those terminals got swapped?

Look for simple things first, and as was mentioned previously, try to stick to the problem at hand, rather than chase red herrings and risk complicating things further.

Good luck!

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Didn’t read everyone’s posts in entirety…

Sounds like a bad ballast resistor or connection. That is if it’s not the ignition fuse. Could be either or both.
 
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