When I started building my "no compromises" landcruiser, I wanted to have some decent music. Here is the build I landed on and have nearly finished the install on.
I started by trying to make the 40 a little more quiet. I've when the engine and interior were out, I started by plugging all of the extra holes. I went so crazy that I ended up plugging the roll cage mounting holes. I remember thinking, wow, there are a lot of holes in at the bottom of the A-pillar. Then it occurred to me, that I drilled them for the roll cage.
After hole filling, I sprayed the firewall and entire interior tub with 4 coat of lizard skin, 2 for heat and 2 for sound. This really made wrapping on the floor more solid.
Next, I added sound deader from an online FJ40 supplier, I can't remember the name. Unfortunately, that material did not stick to lizard skin so I peeled it all off and laid down dynamat. More expensive but really sticks much better. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full effect of dynamat installing over the lizard skin.
Moving on to the head unit, I really wanted wireless android auto and android mirroring. Many head units are wired android auto, like the Alpine Halo (last years model) so I settled on the Kenwood DMX1057xr. This is a double din unit with nearly an 11 inch screen. This is totally overkill but I like the quality of the screen and the option for 4 cameras. Getting it installed with the Vintage Air air conditioning was no easy task. In my first attempt, I cut the hole in dash too low and could not slide the double din all the way in the dash as it was hitting one of the servos on the air conditioning. I plugged half the hole and cut a din higher in the dash. Now the double din just clears the AC, but hits the defrost duct. Had to do some bending to make room, and I'm noticing that the defrost tube is not staying in place. I'll need to address this later. Here is the head unit mounted:
I next looked for options on mounting the amp. I went with the JL Audio VX800/8i amp. I've always be a fan of JL Audio and this amp is awesome. 8 channels at 75 watts each and after you plug in a laptop, completely customizable. I hoped to install the amp just below the AC but there was no way it would fit. I ended up cutting a couple pieces of bar stock and made a mounting home under the drivers seat. It is somewhat of a shame to hide this amp away, but maybe I'll keep prying eyes off it. Here it is mounted with a custom green glow to match my 40:
I love being able to adjust volume and base easily so I added a DRC that can adjust both and click between amplifier profiles. This is good for top on versus off, or time correcting the sound to focus on the driver when alone, or share with a passenger when I'm not. I wanted the knob easily reachable, yet out of the way. I mounted in the center console next to the switch pro and seat heaters:
I have 8 channels from the amp to play with so I'm still deciding configuration and how to make the best use of the amp. This may change as I experience this set up. I started by wanting tweeter up by the windshield. I really didn't want to cut holes in dash so I purchased UTV antenna whip mounts from Axis Alloys. These are custom sized for my roll cage and they allow me to point these tweeter any direction. I've settled on reflecting off the windshield but I might change in time. Here are the mounts:
This tweeter are from the component set of JL Audio C600s. Once summer comes and I can remove the top, I'll route the speaker wire under the windshield frame. For now, they are routed along side the dash with Mag Daddies. I love these and used quite a few in this build.
Next, I wanted more mids that were fairly close so I added Infinity Kappa 2 inch speaker in the dash. This was pretty blasphemous cutting holes in the dash, but at the end of the day, it's my cruiser. These add quite a bit to fill in the sound. I'm currently running 2 channels for the tweeters and 2 channels to the 2 in Kappas. The gain is way down so I might put both on shared channels with a passive crossover, but I'll lose the ability to time shift the signal. Here they are mounted:
Finally, the based comes from the 6.5 inch JL Audio C600s mounted in the door. I'm completely unhappy with this as the door cards are cheap ABS plastic. Hopefully this summer I'll refinish the doors, dynamat and build custom door cards. The doors will be sealed and will likely produce much better results.
I got a second pair of JL Audio 6.5 components but went with the C650 because I'd have more mounting depth for the rear. I built MDF speaker boxes and mounted the drivers, tweeters and crossover inside. The boxes have rubber feet that are spaced since two feet sit on the roll cage plate and two do not. I then bolted the boxes through the body on two of the roll cage bolts with spacers between the boxes and the body....they aren't going anywhere:
So what's left? I really want to install a sub as well. I now have the amp for it:
I plan to purchase a JL Audio 12W7 and build a ported box. Since the interior of my 40 is largely mat black from the lizard skin, I plan to automotive finish the sub box and paint if rustic green 621 along with my 6.5 boxes. I'd like to round the back corners of the sub box to match the back of the 40 and then add the "4 Wheel Drive" emblem. The sub will have the amp installed on it and will be quick disconnect. I'm planning to add aircraft rails that seats attach to hold the sub box in, yet can be easily removed. I plan to build drawers and a ridge that can replace the sub box for longer expedition trips.
Let me know what you think.
I started by trying to make the 40 a little more quiet. I've when the engine and interior were out, I started by plugging all of the extra holes. I went so crazy that I ended up plugging the roll cage mounting holes. I remember thinking, wow, there are a lot of holes in at the bottom of the A-pillar. Then it occurred to me, that I drilled them for the roll cage.
After hole filling, I sprayed the firewall and entire interior tub with 4 coat of lizard skin, 2 for heat and 2 for sound. This really made wrapping on the floor more solid.
Next, I added sound deader from an online FJ40 supplier, I can't remember the name. Unfortunately, that material did not stick to lizard skin so I peeled it all off and laid down dynamat. More expensive but really sticks much better. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full effect of dynamat installing over the lizard skin.
Moving on to the head unit, I really wanted wireless android auto and android mirroring. Many head units are wired android auto, like the Alpine Halo (last years model) so I settled on the Kenwood DMX1057xr. This is a double din unit with nearly an 11 inch screen. This is totally overkill but I like the quality of the screen and the option for 4 cameras. Getting it installed with the Vintage Air air conditioning was no easy task. In my first attempt, I cut the hole in dash too low and could not slide the double din all the way in the dash as it was hitting one of the servos on the air conditioning. I plugged half the hole and cut a din higher in the dash. Now the double din just clears the AC, but hits the defrost duct. Had to do some bending to make room, and I'm noticing that the defrost tube is not staying in place. I'll need to address this later. Here is the head unit mounted:
I next looked for options on mounting the amp. I went with the JL Audio VX800/8i amp. I've always be a fan of JL Audio and this amp is awesome. 8 channels at 75 watts each and after you plug in a laptop, completely customizable. I hoped to install the amp just below the AC but there was no way it would fit. I ended up cutting a couple pieces of bar stock and made a mounting home under the drivers seat. It is somewhat of a shame to hide this amp away, but maybe I'll keep prying eyes off it. Here it is mounted with a custom green glow to match my 40:
I love being able to adjust volume and base easily so I added a DRC that can adjust both and click between amplifier profiles. This is good for top on versus off, or time correcting the sound to focus on the driver when alone, or share with a passenger when I'm not. I wanted the knob easily reachable, yet out of the way. I mounted in the center console next to the switch pro and seat heaters:
I have 8 channels from the amp to play with so I'm still deciding configuration and how to make the best use of the amp. This may change as I experience this set up. I started by wanting tweeter up by the windshield. I really didn't want to cut holes in dash so I purchased UTV antenna whip mounts from Axis Alloys. These are custom sized for my roll cage and they allow me to point these tweeter any direction. I've settled on reflecting off the windshield but I might change in time. Here are the mounts:
Next, I wanted more mids that were fairly close so I added Infinity Kappa 2 inch speaker in the dash. This was pretty blasphemous cutting holes in the dash, but at the end of the day, it's my cruiser. These add quite a bit to fill in the sound. I'm currently running 2 channels for the tweeters and 2 channels to the 2 in Kappas. The gain is way down so I might put both on shared channels with a passive crossover, but I'll lose the ability to time shift the signal. Here they are mounted:
Finally, the based comes from the 6.5 inch JL Audio C600s mounted in the door. I'm completely unhappy with this as the door cards are cheap ABS plastic. Hopefully this summer I'll refinish the doors, dynamat and build custom door cards. The doors will be sealed and will likely produce much better results.
I got a second pair of JL Audio 6.5 components but went with the C650 because I'd have more mounting depth for the rear. I built MDF speaker boxes and mounted the drivers, tweeters and crossover inside. The boxes have rubber feet that are spaced since two feet sit on the roll cage plate and two do not. I then bolted the boxes through the body on two of the roll cage bolts with spacers between the boxes and the body....they aren't going anywhere:
So what's left? I really want to install a sub as well. I now have the amp for it:
Let me know what you think.
