76 FJ40 build/Saga (1 Viewer)

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Salem Oregon
It is time to start telling the story of the other LC in my life. Two years ago my brother In-law had decided it was time he should sell his "project" since his wife would not allow any time or money to be put into it. I told him I had a buyer if the price was right. My best friend was in the market for a 4wheel project and after telling him a little about the Fj we headed over to my brothers with some jumper cables and some cash and drove it back to the shop.
Once at the shop we gave it a full once over fluids filters etc etc. We even rebuilt the front axle (pretty good leak) for the most part we just played around with it for the last few weeks of summer. The plan was not concrete, but that over winter we would tackle the build head on. A long list of upgrades and changes were decided upon and I got to ordering. For the most part the build blueprint was given to us my the fine folks @ Man-A-Fre. we spoke with them at length during the last SEMA show and loved what they had done with their Show Rig.
So we had done a fair amount of disassemble at the garage, I mean we were down to a frame and one axle if I remember correctly, with tons of new/used parts showing up daily. Then the flood hit..... one of the worst in our area in over 100 years, needless to say some stuff was not where it used to be anymore, to be honest half the stuff was gone... pretty bad deal.
So here we are, its been about 4-5months and we have gotten a bunch of the stuff back or just got replacements to continue the project.
I have some of the old pictures of it when it was my brothers for you all, and in the coming weeks I will continue to add to the story and post progress pictures too. Tomorrow is going to be a good day we have a ton of stuff coming in and I will take pictures of what we have to date.

Thanks for reading mud :beer:
Front.JPG
Back seats fold up (2).JPG
back seats fold up.JPG
 
Joined
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Messages
638
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Salem Oregon
Just got back from the shop and got some work done on the rig

1st thing was making sure the e-brake braket was going to work and keep the frame intact and out of the way of the drive line

2nd was get the rear brake conversion done

still a long way from being done but getting there. Tomorrow it will be on its way to have some custom drive shafts built.
rear disk brk.jpg
brake.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
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Salem Oregon
the rear axle is out of a fj60 re geared and ready to run thanks to the help of the guys up at LANDCRUISER SPECIALTIES

which means we have the old rear axle complete with new brakes on it for sale if anyone may need, I will put up in the classifieds too.
rear axle.jpg
old 40 axle.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
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Salem Oregon
I could use a little help in this department. I have just ordered the Marks offroad version for my 76 FJ as a replacement for the stock one. My question is, since Mark no longer sells sending units (sucks) I need to locate one that works in my application. It seems there are multiple choices and I dont know much about it, just that I need one... HELP

Thanks
 

spotcruiser

Geezer
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Jan 30, 2003
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Western WA
Tank? You can't make a stock sender work?

I could use a little help in this department. I have just ordered the Marks offroad version for my 76 FJ as a replacement for the stock one. My question is, since Mark no longer sells sending units (sucks) I need to locate one that works in my application. It seems there are multiple choices and I dont know much about it, just that I need one... HELP

Thanks
 

bj40green

Tssss, tssss
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
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Location
Atenas, Costa Rica
Hi Orygun,

So you have a "76 FJ40 with a 3rd generation gauge cluster. Correct?
Have a look at my thread: -► All about clusters-gauges-senders-odo-speedo meters.html for more info.

The OEM sender for your year ('72-'78) is #83320-60050 or #83320-60051 but this one is for '79 and later. Both will work with your gauge cluster.
The 1st difference is the way of grounding. The first one is grounded by a ring terminal under one of the screws. The latter is grounded by a spade terminal.
The values for both senders are:
Empty = 120 ohm, Full = 17 ohm.
The 2nd difference is the lenght of the float arm. The second one is longer.
The senders look like this
#83320-60050
83320-60050.jpg

#83320-60051
83320-60051.jpg

The swing (full / empty) of the float is approx. 8", so your tank should be around 9 or 10" deep for a more-or-less good reading.
Here is a pic from Mud member FJ718. The float is not in the top position in this pic but it is to give you an idea about the sizes. This is the short #83320-60050 sender.
mud_fj718_fuel_sender_full.jpg

Hope this helps to get you started.

Rudi
83320-60050.jpg
83320-60051.jpg
mud_fj718_fuel_sender_full.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 6, 2009
Messages
638
Location
Salem Oregon
Hi Orygun,

So you have a "76 FJ40 with a 3rd generation gauge cluster. Correct?
Have a look at my thread: -► All about clusters-gauges-senders-odo-speedo meters.html for more info.

The OEM sender for your year ('72-'78) is #83320-60050 or #83320-60051 but this one is for '79 and later. Both will work with your gauge cluster.
The 1st difference is the way of grounding. The first one is grounded by a ring terminal under one of the screws. The latter is grounded by a spade terminal.
The values for both senders are:
Empty = 120 ohm, Full = 17 ohm.
The 2nd difference is the lenght of the float arm. The second one is longer.
The senders look like this
#83320-60050
View attachment 785341

#83320-60051
View attachment 785342

The swing (full / empty) of the float is approx. 8", so your tank should be around 9 or 10" deep for a more-or-less good reading.
Here is a pic from Mud member FJ718. The float is not in the top position in this pic but it is to give you an idea about the sizes. This is the short #83320-60050 sender.
View attachment 785346

Hope this helps to get you started.

Rudi

Wow Rudi!! Thanks so much, once we get to it (Soon) I will be in touch :)
 
Joined
May 6, 2009
Messages
638
Location
Salem Oregon
Rudy question for you: Will the CCOT part(s) work on the aux tank I have in the picture? If yes awesome, if not does that mean that I need to cut a new hole in the tank to mate them, considering the different shapes in the gaskets. Thanks for the help
 

bj40green

Tssss, tssss
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
3,458
Location
Atenas, Costa Rica
Rudy question for you: Will the CCOT part(s) work on the aux tank I have in the picture? If yes awesome, if not does that mean that I need to cut a new hole in the tank to mate them, considering the different shapes in the gaskets. Thanks for the help

As I can see it, the hole in your tank is oval.
The OEM sender is 3" round. Maybe you can modify that lid to adapt the OEM sender.
The other option is to find a sender that fits that lid and is in the range 17 - 120 ohm.
Sender_text.JPG
CCOT is just one of the sellers. I only used that picture because its a good picture to show what I mean.

Rudi
Sender_text.JPG
 
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