71FJ40 Chevota

[71FJnick]

Some more, just for reference

Carburetor Tune Up Guide - The Carburetor Doctor

EPISODE 103 Tuning Classic Car with Vacuum Gauge, Plug Reading, Jetting Autorestomod

 

[71FJnick]

Worked on the accelerator pump circuit again.

Changed the pump nozzle from #35 back to the qft stock #28.

That worked really well and I was able to actually drive this thing around the block without it dieing.

Now it's still so far from being "drivable" and even farther from going out in the mountains, but...

Today I drove my 40... And it was awesome

Also reworked the gas pedal so it's at WOT, when fully depressed, but that it can't go any farther causing stress on the shaft.

 

[71FJnick]

Since it was nice out, I was able to set the top out in the sun so it was pliable enough to reinstall. I was actually able to get everything snapped and zipped!

I also adjusted the timing to 14 deg initial and re set the idle mixture screws... Seems better, but I've resigned to a long time of fiddling with the carb.


Items on deck...
Set the toe, I tried to get a photo, but basically when the right tire is straight, the drivers points left.

Also, I'm going to pull the foam from my fuel cell and inspect it. I'm convinced it's going to deteriorate and clog filters... So it's gone.

 

[71FJnick]

Pulled the foam out of my fuel cell today. It was actually in really good shape, but since I don't drive this thing regularly (or at all right now) I don't want foam breaking down and clogging my system.
I pulled the foam, wiped out the tank, and installed my new fuel sender.

I now have a working fuel gage, yay!

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

there is a cup or surround at the pickup that keeps the fuel next to it while you're driving?

 

[71FJnick]

No real shroud near the pickup.
There is a molded in 2" sump at the bottom of the tank and some ridges.
I'm a little concerned about fuel slosh and starving the pump, but since thus tank isn't the final solution (hence it stellar mounting location) I want to get it driving and see how bad the issue is.

I'm no expert on fuel cells, but I figured the pro of having the foam to keep slosh down vs the con of deteriorating foam in the fuel after a year of sitting (likely based on progress) I'd better just get the foam out now, if there's issues I can put it back.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I don't disagree with your removal of the foam - it's why I didn't say anything when you proposed it - but you will need to come up with a solution about sloshing (or keep the tank at least 1/2 full at all times). The solution could be as simple as a baffle that is fastened at the top of the tank (and sealed, of course) and goes within 1/4" of the floor to keep the fuel in the sump. Another solution is, if you're running an electric fuel pump, is a reservoir made from 2" black pipe (it looks just like a pipe bomb when its done). If you do the reservoir, you must have a looped fuel system and a pressure regulator (so the air has somewhere to go).

The other solution, while costly, is pretty cool.... it's this

it's a Holley fuel mat. The thing is new and really cool, it absorbs fuel and holds it at the pickup. They cost between 140 and 400 dollars, so they're not cheap but quite effective and a pretty elegant solution


you size it by the engine size (there will be changes to their website soon to reflect that statement)...

 

[71FJnick]

Wow, the fuel mat looks pretty cool.
I've heard about wiffle balls too.
I'll have to start noodling some options, certainly I could imagine a box mounted from the top that creates a small chamber at the fuel outlet.... Hmmm.

 

[kbahus]

Why not just do a long range tank mounted under the truck? They pop up used time to time and then you get the space back for camping gear and dogs.

 

[71FJnick]

The long range tank is in the plans, but couldn't spare the $700 for one now.
Also my rear springs are flipped so I need to do some checking on clearances before spending time back there.
I've been looking into the s10 tank, but I think it's only 15 gal (need to confirm).
Definitely like the plug n play feature of the long range tank... Or at least as close to it as we can get with these trucks

 

[71FJnick]

I also set the toe on the front end.
I used a technique described frequently on MUD.
Remember the awning that was destroyed a few weeks ago? Well the legs made good references for the alignment.

I made unique marks in each leg, 16" from the center hole (which was bolted to the hub).
I leveled the legs and measured the rear (A dimension) and the mark in front ( B dimension).

I was initially toe out 1/8" and I set to 1/4" toe in.
FSM says .2" in max, I guessed at 30" tires to get a max angle of .19deg.
I've read that soa and big ties need a bit more toe, so I targeted .2ish degrees (1/4")

At any rate, here's the math, just for fun.

I also used a bit of grey gasket maker to mark the TREs after tightening, sort of like torque putty, we'll see how it works.

I notice my drag link was lose at the pitman arm, this is Bad.
I tightened it... It wouldn't fully seat... This is Bad.
Also, the ball joint is basically maxed out to the angle... This is Bad.

So now I'm off to do some research on dropped pitman arms and ball joints....

 

[71FJnick]

I pulled the pitman arm and drag link end that attaches.
The tapers are definitely mismatched, and I'm trying to figure out what I have.

I want to buy a dropped pitman (plan to go to Cruiser Outfitters) but I only want to buy the pitman and rod end, not a new drag link...yet.

Any guesses on if this is a fj40 rod end? Or something else?

On my fancy thread checker, it's between 16 and 18mm or 5/8 and 3/4"

I count about 18threads per inch, give or take 1.

Any helps appreciated.

Here's the other end of the drag link, I'm pretty sure this is fj40, but it does look a bit different that the other end?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

run to your local Napa (or come to the one in Redmond for assured service) and do some parts comparison. I buy a bunch at Redmond Napa, so I know if you dropped in and talked to Don (he's the best of the bunch) or pretty much anyone (including John - and please tell him that I added him as an afterthought) there - they can do some matching for you to help you find what you need. Price are reasonable too.

 

[kbahus]

If the end on the pitman is a GM part here is a good comparison chart:

Jeep Tie Rod and Drag Link End Identification | jeepfan.com

I don't think it would be difficult to find a GM link and a matching dropped pitman arm. I have also seen collars being sold by Ruffstuff Specialties that can correct taper misalignments.

Attached is a pic of my stock FJ40 stuff for comparison. It looks like your links have definitely been beefed up/welded. It also looks like you have drum brakes/small pattern knuckles so I am guessing it has stock fj40 tie rod ends at the steering knuckles, unless someone tried to pull the same trick as the pitman and jam mismatched parts in there.

 

[71FJnick]

Thanks! I'll try the local Napa.

Thanks for the pics Kevin.
The tie rod end looks like fj40, at least from comparing pics
From the chart you linked the pitman end still seems too small to be GM, the thread is definitely not 7/8 dia.

Though maybe it's some other small SAE thread... Jeep maybe

I may indeed be comparing parts at NAPA.

The axle's a ball and claw '68 with small pattern knuckles.
That's one reason I don't want to buy another drag link unless I have to. One day I plan to replace it with an upgraded '71 axle I recently acquired from superbuickguy

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

just a side note - I do have the correct reamer to re-taper a pitman arm to GM or Ford taper...

 

[Mace]

Drop pittman is not going to work all that well with the steering setup you have. You really need to do some sort of high steer. By the time you do the drop pittman to accommodate the drag link, it'll run into the leaf spring.

That TRE that goes tot he Pittman is a Moog 3094 like this one. It "looks" to be left hand thread, but I easily could be wrong.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-es3094l

I don't want to see you waste money on parts that will get you nowhere.

 

[Mace]

btw, with either ball and claw or the drum brake birfs that come as part of a drum brake 1971 FJ40 axle you are not going to keep the shafts in one piece for long with those tires.

You can upgrade the 71 axle to disk brakes and some sort of chromo/30 spline axle shafts which is a huge improvement. You would also have large pattern knuckles, and hysteer of some sort becomes much easier. Hysteer on a small pattern knuckle is possible, but not nearly as robust.

 

[71FJnick]

Mace, thanks man, I totally didn't think about full lock interfering with the leaf. I'll do a mock up before going farther.
Thanks for the tip on the tre, I'll check that out.

On the axle, I totally agree. I'm saving up for 35s now which will help, and ultimately I'm wanting upgraded large pattern knuckles with disk brakes and histeer. That's just a ways off.

For now I'm trying to get it somewhat drive able so I can decide which direction I want to take it.
My goal is to have to buy things twice, so for this steering issue I'm looking for a reasonable, cheap fix.

That may simply be a new tre with the correct taper and thread.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

one tons ftw!