62 power window master switch wiring (1 Viewer)

[Cnut]

Trying to get the front passenger window operable in my 88 fj62. PO had "rewired it wrong". All windows work fine except the front passenger. BE-51 of fsm shows twelve wires entering the connector. There are 11 on mine - #3 is missing (see pic). There are no loose wires on the back of the control board, so it's either been removed or never existed in the first place. Any experience with where this puppy may be, or advice on better places to inspect to solve the problem? Trying to get some added relief from the southern heat before replacing the ac compressor next spring!

 

[Steve83]

The '88 Haynes diagram (which can be downloaded from Google Images) shows switch terminal #3 as a Bk/Gn wire to the RHF switch in Fig.5 zones B16-17.

 

[Cnut]

Any reason why the #3 wire would be missing? Best course of action to take the face off of the control board, try to find where the connection point for #3 should be, and connect a new wire on the back side?

 

[Cnut]

Okay - messed with the window lock and found that pressing up/down for passenger front when lock engaged made the same motor "click" sound as the other windows. So it is getting power, which eliminates some other ideas. Anyone have a picture of where the #3 wire connects to the back of the control board? That's got to be it.

 

[4Cruisers]

The '88 Haynes diagram (which can be downloaded from Google Images) shows switch terminal #3 as a Bk/Gn wire to the RHF switch in Fig.5 zones B16-17.

Terminal #3 is for "Assistant" (AKA front passenger) window "Up", and is opposite Terminal #4 (red w/green stripe wire) for "Assistant" window "Down".

 

[Cnut]

Thanks for the help. The wire was actually plugged into the #2 slot and was controlling auto up on drivers window. Took it out of the connector and put it back into the #3 hole. Everything is working now (except auto up... which turned out to be the real missing wire... but that doesn't bother me). It didn't help that the after market master switch had totally different wire colors. The recommendation of the Haynes manual helped a lot. My passenger thanks you profusely.

 

[Steve83]

Terminal #3 is for "Assistant" (AKA front passenger) window "Up"...

It's +12V in up, but BOTH wires are used for running the window up. ...and both are used running the window down. Only the polarity reverses to make the motor run up or down. So it's not really accurate to call either the "up" wire or "down" wire.

 

[86aggie]

I've still got the OEM master switch, and have not been able to use it to raise the front passenger window. It will lower it, but not raise it. I took the switch apart and checked for continuity. The issue is the 'rivet' that goes thru the white plastic connecting the power circuit(10) to the copper see-saw, when the switch is used. The rivet has continuity from front to back(head to head), however it does not have continuity with the copper plate that it passes thru. I'm soaking it in electronic cleaner now. If that doesnt work, I'm not sure what to do. I thought about soldering from the rivet head to the plate, but am afraid that would melt the plastic underneath.

Any ideas of what I can do to restore the continuity between the two? Epoxy a strip of copper laid on top of the rivet head bridging to plate?

 

[jesus888]

I've still got the OEM master switch, and have not been able to use it to raise the front passenger window. It will lower it, but not raise it. I took the switch apart and checked for continuity. The issue is the 'rivet' that goes thru the white plastic connecting the power circuit(10) to the copper see-saw, when the switch is used. The rivet has continuity from front to back(head to head), however it does not have continuity with the copper plate that it passes thru. I'm soaking it in electronic cleaner now. If that doesnt work, I'm not sure what to do. I thought about soldering from the rivet head to the plate, but am afraid that would melt the plastic underneath.

Any ideas of what I can do to restore the continuity between the two? Epoxy a strip of copper laid on top of the rivet head bridging to plate?

What ended up happening with this? I have an issue with my rear driver window after adding relays and direct power to each window and I think we traced to the master switch which we’ll get into next week.

 

[franklin40]

there is a relay in the door as well. mine corroded out a circuit and would go down but not back up. it happened to be -40 that day too . that’s a cold drive home! anyway not saying that’s your problem but it could be.

Service offered - FJ62 driver's window relay assembly (green box) refurb

Wanted to throw this in for anyone's benefit who's considering having their relay box refurbished; with how much prices have skyrocketed in the last two years and certain supplies being limited, the overall parts cost for me has fortunately only increased by a very minute amount, allowing me to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jesus888]

there is a relay in the door as well. mine corroded out a circuit and would go down but not back up. it happened to be -40 that day too . that’s a cold drive home! anyway not saying that’s your problem but it could be.

Service offered - FJ62 driver's window relay assembly (green box) refurb

Wanted to throw this in for anyone's benefit who's considering having their relay box refurbished; with how much prices have skyrocketed in the last two years and certain supplies being limited, the overall parts cost for me has fortunately only increased by a very minute amount, allowing me to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yup, already replaced the relays in the front driver door and added relays to each other door along with a dedicated fused power source for each door. I believe this is a different issue, more related to the actual master switch.

 

[86aggie]

I ended up building up layers of the copper paint, used for restoring the rear defroster lines. That worked for a while, until I started having trouble with another window. At that point, I was tired of playing McGyver, and bought an entire new switch panel. No issues since. FYSA, I still have the stock wiring, not the improved relay setup that many have done.

 

[jesus888]

I ended up building up layers of the copper paint, used for restoring the rear defroster lines. That worked for a while, until I started having trouble with another window. At that point, I was tired of playing McGyver, and bought an entire new switch panel. No issues since. FYSA, I still have the stock wiring, not the improved relay setup that many have done.

Where’d you get the master switch from? Curious…

 

[86aggie]

It was August of '21. Ordered it from PartSouq. Looks to still be available from them.

https://partsouq.com/search/all?q=8482090A0803

The outer housing is darker than the OEM gray. I may have moved the new switch body to the original housing, I can't recall for sure.