40 series general tech and classifieds (1 Viewer)

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77TLCFJ40 said:
Dug the GunRunner out over the weekend. It has not moved since it got off the trailer from the Crawl in Oct. Trying to get it ready for MardiKrawl. Battery was very low and unable to crank. Remembered that I won an Optima Yellowtop at the Razorback Ramble last June. Thought it would be as dead as the one in the 40, but more worth my time to jump it and charge it up. Date stamp is 3/15. Dropped it in and it had a great charge and it fired right up! Impressed!

Rear brake master circuit was almost completely empty with corresponding puddle on the floor. Looks like it is leaking between the master and booster. This master is a CCOT aftermarket I installed in 2003. It was my very first repair after bringing the GunRunner home. Any suggestions on a replacement master? I have rear disc brakes and upgraded the fronts to 2nd, or was it 3rd gen Pickup/4Runner SR5 V6 4-Piston calipers. The OEM booster died a couple of years later. It was replaced with a used pickup booster with the aluminum spacer at the firewall. This system has worked great and will stand the truck on its nose. 80 series non-ABS? Is there a 1" bore dual reservoir option? I think I have a used mid-80s Supra 1"+ bore in a box somewhere...

Also need to change the oil. What is the consensus on oil weight/brand with the ZDDP or ZDDP additive?
Click to expand...
15-40 Diesel Oil. Rotella, or whatever is on sale is what I use. Toyota filter. My .02
 
If I use the non-ABS 4-wheel disc master, will I still need my proportioning valve? Same question for the OEM valve that goes between the master and rear brakes. Forgot the name, but this valve is mounted using one of the master to booster bolts and is located below the master.

Any concerns switching from 20-50 Valvoline to 15-40 Rotella? Does the Rotella have ZDDP?

Thanks all!
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
If I use the non-ABS 4-wheel disc master, will I still need my proportioning valve? Same question for the OEM valve that goes between the master and rear brakes. Forgot the name, but this valve is mounted using one of the master to booster bolts and is located below the master.

Any concerns switching from 20-50 Valvoline to 15-40 Rotella? Does the Rotella have ZDDP?

Thanks all!
Click to expand...

I use the non-ABS master with a prop valve. I'm not familiar with the OEM valve you mention, and I'm pretty certain I don't have one.
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
If I use the non-ABS 4-wheel disc master, will I still need my proportioning valve? Same question for the OEM valve that goes between the master and rear brakes. Forgot the name, but this valve is mounted using one of the master to booster bolts and is located below the master...
Click to expand...

The need for a prop valve may depend on which discs you have at each end. It seems as many people have them as don't. If you're talking about the residual valve, that is there to keep pressure on the drums and not needed for the discs.
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
If I use the non-ABS 4-wheel disc master, will I still need my proportioning valve? Same question for the OEM valve that goes between the master and rear brakes. Forgot the name, but this valve is mounted using one of the master to booster bolts and is located below the master.

Any concerns switching from 20-50 Valvoline to 15-40 Rotella? Does the Rotella have ZDDP?

Thanks all!
Click to expand...
Keep using 20w50 no problem. I could care less about ZDDP. No more than I drive it, it'll out live me. I guess you could ask Braswell. I think he had a thread about it a few months ago.
 
I just used Rotella 20/50 with an extra bottle of additive for ZDDP. Seemed to be the easiest way to satisfy all the requirements...
 
New brake booster showed up today. May try and install tonight.

My current booster is only connected to vacuum in one spot, top of the manifold. Pic below. Remember I'm running a weber carb. @Bodean is this how yours is connected?

image.webp
image.webp



Also, there is a hole on top of the valve cover towards the rear that I just have 'breathing' at his point with some vacuum hose. Any ideas on proper treatment of this when factory air cleaner isn't there?

image.webp
 
that's a bolt hole for the air cleaner bracket
 
that's the hose @wngrog uses to oil his air filter
 
My 40 is cutting out at heavy hill loads on the highway. Runs fine after reaching top of hill.
Any idea of cause?
Fuel filter is clean and carb rebuilt.
 
Mine was doing that with the carb that came with it, did it after I had that carb rebuilt. My fix was a new carb and a fuel pressure regulator. That issue went away after that. If you ate on level ground and really hammer down on the Pedal or try to speed up quickly, does it also happen then?
 
Only happens on heavy grades on highway. Used to happen on level ground before the jim c rebuild.

Fuel pressure regulator... how might I check that and where is it?
 
Report to the pants thread
 
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