Build 4 door Fj45 on 80 series chassis

[Blackknight1]

9.5" the rear is pretty stout. The 8"in the front of the 80 leaves a bit to be desired. Not hard to be stronger then that.

Are the rear axles full float?

Not the ones we have here. I read somewhere that they're all semi float

 

[Blackknight1]

After minor adjustments , the upper cab panel mounted with little to no fuss.

 

[Blackknight1]

After minor adjustments , the upper cab panel mounted with little to no fuss

 

[peesalot]

It fit the top, what about the tub ?

 

[Blackknight1]

It fit the top, what about the tub ?

Excellent question. It fits the top perfectly, but since the rear part of the tub was made to fit the previous upper, it does not sit well with it.... I'll be rebuilding the lower rear part of the tub next week end.

 

[Blackknight1]

Quick question about the Nortwest Fab Black box,. What's the best oil and grade i should use in it ?

 

[Ditcherman]

Quick question about the Nortwest Fab Black box,. What's the best oil and grade i should use in it ?

Their install guide says 3/4 quart of 80/90. The Internet is filled with stories of oil migrating from the black box into transfer cases, and also some from trans into black box.
This could be previous iterations, not sure.

I think we talked about the venting/burping/cooling issues in here before, just make sure to read up on that if you haven’t already. (I think you’re got it covered just want to be sure.)

 

[peesalot]

If you have a manual its all 90w so let them migrate , that occurs when seals are bad or in some cases when not vented. It has been done to fab a hose or hard tube from the case getting filled back into the case getting emptied at the appropriate heigth to maintain equal earl quantity but thats a bandaid which has proven necessary when you just cant get to the seal at the moment.

 

[Blackknight1]

View attachment 4010471
Their install guide says 3/4 quart of 80/90. The Internet is filled with stories of oil migrating from the black box into transfer cases, and also some from trans into black box.
This could be previous iterations, not sure.

I think we talked about the venting/burping/cooling issues in here before, just make sure to read up on that if you haven’t already. (I think you’re got it covered just want to be sure.)

Thanks. Yes I read quite a bit about it but did not remember how much oilto put in it or the grade. I installed a complete cooling system with an online filter, a pump, an oil cooler and a 4 quart thank.
I'm slowly getting closer to the end of this build . First start is not verry far now

 

[peesalot]

If you are cooling the fluid you may want to look at less viscosity oil to allow pump to be happy , possibly a synthetic ? The red stuff for diffs, cant recall manufacturer.

 

[Ditcherman]

If you are cooling the fluid you may want to look at less viscosity oil to allow pump to be happy , possibly a synthetic ? The red stuff for diffs, cant recall manufacturer.

Redline MT85 maybe?
Goes good in NV4500.

 

[peesalot]

Ding Ding

 

[Blackknight1]

Redline MT85 maybe?
Goes good in NV4500.

Danm there is no way I'm gonna find that stuff here..... I'm gonna have to order it and wait friking months to get it

 

[Blackknight1]

Okay! Been making some serious progress . We installed new OEM brake pads in all corners. I also got some 555 tie rod ends that were installed today.
I solved the problem with the steering by cutting a hole into the coil spring pocket . We were able to do that with an angle grinder fitted with a cutting disc. All we had to take out was the coil spring and the bump stop.
We then cut piece of 1/8 steel plate to box up the hole .

 

[Blackknight1]

Here 'a shot of the hole and the steering box. It was pretty

 

[Blackknight1]

I was given a pair of oem tailgate latches. They look brand new but I dont like the way they look on the truck, So, I had a pair of hidden latches i had left over from a hotrod project i was building..... i decided to use them on this project.

 

[Blackknight1]

The new tie rod ends are installed on the bars. The one from the Nissan Patrol's Pitman arm works just fine with the 80 series part...... No issues there.
The boxing plate we were making was designed with an L shape to allow for clearance of the steering box and freeturning of the steering joint.
We made it with an open gap about 4"× 0.5" at the lower part so it does not hold moisture and rust in that crucial area of the chassis.

It will be installed this morning,so the bars will be installed once that's done and the truck will be back on all 4 .
With that, all fabrications and repairs for sreering are done.
I still need to get a Wilwood brake master cylinder , bend some /16 stainless tubing to replace the 80 series stuff ..... plumbing for the fuel system will be done as soon as I can find my fuel filter/regulator and my electric pump all of which I had already ordered but got misplaced during the chaotic move from the old shop.
I sure hope that I won't have to re -order that stuff ....

 

[Broski]

If you still have the front springs out. I would clearance the coil spring pocket at the bottom where it meets the frame.
Post 774 picture # 5 where your guys pinky finger is resting. Lifted rigs with bigger springs are know to rub there causing a clunk when the suspension cycles.
I cut mine back flush with the frame. Just the horizontal part

 

[Blackknight1]

If you still have the front springs out. I would clearance the coil spring pocket at the bottom where it meets the frame.
Post 774 picture # 5 where your guys pinky finger is resting. Lifted rigs with bigger springs are know to rub there causing a clunk when the suspension cycles.
I cut mine back flush with the frame. Just the horizontal part

Which part needs to be clearance and how much do I take out ?

 

[Broski]

Post 775 first picture where all the grinding dust is sitting. The horizontal lip, I removed that lip flush to the frame.