4/86 fj60 build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 30, 2021
Threads
5
Messages
25
Location
North Carolina
so begins my journey, im sure many headaches and joys are ahead. bought a 86 fj60 from a friend that had sat in his garage for ten years.
he said that the power steering pump was leaking when he drove it last. i got a hold of it, and started going through things.
it started and ran, fiddled with the timing some, and started getting gaskets and some new seal kits. (power steering, and box)
stated driving it up and down the road (about a 1/4 mile) and it stated getting staved of fuel. so i dropped the tank and stared inspecting. Nasty rust crap in there. Took it to a radiator shop that had a hot solvent tank. Cleaned up really nice. Excited to bring this truck back to life.

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Press fitting on the power steering preassure hose was cruddy. Luckily i got it loosened up and didnt break the fitting

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Looks like you're off to a great start, enjoy. Keep those photos coming.
 
Did the valve adjustment yesterday. Went with the check while running, and adjust the ones that needed it when stopped. Runs like a singer now. Still waiting on the lockring gaskets for the fuel tank, and i found (from my local dealer) an oem pickup tube filter, yay! A few fuel lines and then the tank can go back in and i can start work on the frame/body rust.

Will keep posting as i do more work, I really need to make a spreadsheet...

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Started to document some of the rust spot to fix. First photo is driver side wheel well. Second is passenger side. Then passenger rocker, and then some of the underbelly.
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Inside of driver wheel well, rear cross member is pretty well eaten up and will have to be replaced. The frame looks to have had some repairs done. But did find a hole/rot spot on the inside right by the mid vehicle body mount.

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Looks like lots of custom stuff. Cool truck.

How is the Holley on the Toyota manifold - Downey adapter?
I honestly have no idea what adapter it has, Thats the next mechanical item for me to dig into. Seems to work nicely, but definitely needs a re build. And the choke cable is not kooked up to it currently. Waiting on the mounting bracket.

This is my first carbureted engine so my knoledge is extremely limited. But i plan to change that. As well, i got very little information about the history of what has been changed on this truck. Lots of detective work ahead.
 
I’m sure lots of folks will tell you to switch back to an Aisin carb. I know some have complaints with Weber carbs, but I’ve always found Holley’s hold their tune well - once they’re dialled in.

What distributor does it have?
 
I’m sure lots of folks will tell you to switch back to an Aisin carb. I know some have complaints with Weber carbs, but I’ve always found Holley’s hold their tune well - once they’re dialled in.

What distributor does it have?
That's another unknown, what are some ways of telling? I imagine removing it and finding some sort of number to search. Ill try to get a photo of it soon.

As far as the carb. Adjusted it when i first got the truck, then i realized i was having fuel supply issues. Corrected that (a 5 gal can in the back with some feul line to and from) just to run the engine for tuning and such. The adjustments made previous were far to rich. Went back to baseline and now it runs great.
 
Take a photo of the distributor. If it’s OEM toyota - it’s worth testing the vacuum pot for the advance - they’re known to leak, which means you’re only getting mechanical advance.
 
Best shot of the distributor i have at the moment. Will get a better one when i have some more time. Now that i think of it, When i was setting the timing i plugged the vac advance line and i got no change at all. That may be a symptom of something?

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That appears to be a stock distributor.
It does.

I still see two vacuum lines to the dual pot vac advance, but with the Holley carb, aftermarket air filter and air rail gone, I’m guessing this is desmogged and the HAC is long gone.

not sure where the vac line on the outer vac advance port goes (up the firewall?), but you should be able to cap that one - use the one closer to the distributor cap for the vacuum signal from the carb.
 
Some more, better pictures of the carb/dizzy areas. There is a fuel leak from the blue outlined square. And im not sure what the valve is at the end of what would be to the HAC (red line). Got the choke cable kit in, so that will go on this week. Also a picture of the remaining erg valve and associated bits.

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There's no reason for the vacuum hose from the distributor's outer vacuum nipple, you can cap it at the advancer. If your main advancer diaphragm isn't working (doesn't rotate the breaker plate or hold vacuum), I'm selling new NipponDenso single diaphragm advancers that are a direct bolt-in, and are adjusted to match the vacuum advance curve of the FJ60 main diaphragm. PM me if interested.
 
Started pulling some of the shielding from under the truck and prepping/repairing for re paint. It looks to me like the skid plate for the t-case isnt even from a 60. Or they just beat the hell out of it and didn't bother straightening it out. I have acess to all sorts of metal fab equipment. Cant decide if i should just fab all new armor, or put back what was already there.

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