3FE Xaust Mans on 2F head/CArb'd Intake (1 Viewer)

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I have seen 4 post in about 4 hundred threads I searched that stated that they had actually installed 3FE stock exhaust manifolds to a carbd'd 2F. No more elaborations to them than that, they were all buried under 2FE deets. I have a pretty good exhaust leak on several spots of my stock FJ6o manifold and would very much like to get rid of them. I can't spend 900 bucks on a Toyota manifold assy right now, and would rather not do headers. I could take in all the bits and pieces I have and get some new rings and springs and have a replacement stock fj60 manny machined/welded/helicoiled and otherwise rebuilt, but if the 62 manifolds will mate up to the 2F head and not interfere with the intakes mating to the head, I'd rather go that route. I know there will be a set of pipes needed to handle the dual outputs and new routing, and I'm fairly certain some grinding will need to be done on the bottom of the intake where it used to mate to the exhaust. I know that there was a toyta trails article about this, but I can't find anything else out on this from here. I can get the 3FE exhaust manifolds delivered no problem, but don't have a set nearby to just check it out. Thank You MUD.
 
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So are you going to do it?

yeah, just gotta pull the trigger...waiting for the boss to not be right over my shoulder:hillbilly: long enough to hit the PP account. I'm getting a set of headers tonite to get me by but I know they'll leak sooner or sooner too, and I'm not going down this loophole again. eventually, it'll hafto smog again, so the headache wont be gone forever. hopefully these will be a nice alternative to the header issues, might even do 2 mufflers and have a true dual exhaust


John, I appreciate it, but the shipping would make up the diff as I'm on the wrong coast, besides, I make my own pipes:D
 
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How are you going to heat the intake manifold to get the fuel/air mix up to temp to atomize correct? The 60 intake and exhaust manifolds mated at the carb base to provide heat to the Intake . Anyone running headers has the same issue. I would assume this would negatively impact your smog check.
 
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How are you going to heat the intake manifold to get the fuel/air mix up to temp to atomize correct? The 60 intake and exhaust manifolds mated at the carb base to provide heat to the Intake . Anyone running headers has the same issue. I would assume this would negatively impact your smog check.

there is the H2O heat riser dealio, but it may not fit with these manifolds. I live in Cali and it is never below say 20 degrees here. might take some warming up, but it shouldn't be too much of an issue. I will have my stock 2F manifold gone thru for the next smog, but I can't have my rig down for that amount of time, and it's nice to free up some space under the hood, so I may just do the 2 year shuffle. short of buying a brand new set of manifolds, I see it taking much $$ to get any used ones in decent long term operating condition, and the headers are bound to leak, so to me the next option would be the 3FE exhaust manifolds. I think their flange would be less likely to warp and leak than a set of headers, and being separate 2 piece design, should have less propensity to warp, and should be easier to do the match-up machine work. I will post follow up reports as they come, and I have already been mulling over how to make these manifolds WORK for smog functionality. Might not be the exact picture, but may just work and wight even get a ref sticker for it. just have to figure out a decent enough way to mimic the heat riser, but the EGR would just need to be routed from the outlet, thru a cooler, and then to the valve. all things considered and given a functioning heat riser, it should work exactly as stock:meh: will have to see about the heat riser when I can physically fit them up
 
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Will you do an "H" pipe to balance the two sides?

I was thinking about it, yeah. FWIU, that is the best way to do a dual exhaust... wonder what MarkW does with his dual exhausts? I saw him post that he usually makes his own headers and always uses 2 1/2" pipe and sometimes even does dual systems:hmm:. Hopefully have the manifolds by Monday, doubt I'll see em by the W/E. I did get a header for a 2F- one of the nice ones I think that comes from MarkA based on its construction and the bit of chrome I can still see, but even its thicker than normal flange is about 35 hundredths shy of the 2F intakes mounting faces. so I may just wait for the manifolds, and give the header back. poo, My truck is hobbled and I just changed the break-in oil


35 THOUSANDTHS not hundredths. I don't wanna piss anyone off ;P
 
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Bummer, I am sorry. If you can wait, it would be easier to to the job once.

I hate shoveling the same dirt twice...

yep. I been debating it all week. finally made up my mind. gunna wait:censor: oh well, I got places to go and I needed to do the head re-torque anyway. I'll borrow the bosses cruiser and put mine out to pasture for the W/E knowing that I'm not stretching the re-torque interval too far. everything for a reason I guess. ih8thecosmos
 
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Well this way you can get the old exhaust off and out of your way!
Get gaskets while you are waiting...

gaskets: done. 1 manifold gasket, one carb base, one plenum, 2 fj62 donuts
old set up will stay in place in case I gotta roll emergency style...ask how I learned to do that:doh:
 
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got the manis today. pretty clean just some surface rust. bolting surface is almost 2 times thicker than the 2F flanges. Either mill the exhaust to match the intake or it seems a large enough gap to fab some stepped spacer/washers fairly easily. Gunna play with cutting and notching a piece of extra heavy wall pipe I have to make some keepers. may just go ahead and have em milled down, I already plan to have them at least surfaced at this point. The intake I'm gunna use is at the machine getting its surfaces done as we speak. got the rear man in the electrolyser too. nice tiny bubbles and 2 amps draw. super booty fab, took about 2 minutes looking at my sanford pile to find what I needed. I did go buy the wash soda the other day, so it's not like it was totally spur of the moment. about! 5 gallons and *some wash soda(< one cup...maybe a halfish or so) 12 volts dc and 2 amps. :grinpimp:

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^^^that mis-alignment of the bolt holes is due to the meat of the outer half of the 2f intake to exhaust side mounting bolt hole taking up space the 3FE exhaust must use. I don't see grinding these parts down killing all possibilities of using a fluid heat riser, it just means the heat riser plate will have to be stout enough to keep its seal with only 3 in stead of 5 mount bolts. I have also thought about just making a sort of heat trap between the 2 exhaust mans and under the intake plenum heat exchanger. couldn't hurt I suppose to try the trap method first if it needs anything at all round here... here's a shot of my de-ruster proto-type

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water and arm and hamma wash soda, bout half a cup to 5 gallons. 2 amp charge. so fa so good. gunna give em about 6 1/2 hours each for first run
 

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