3FE Water Pump

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The studs go into the coolant jacket, so want them to be close to the correct length. This is why the threads are short on that end, so they only go in to the depth of the threaded holes. Because of this, it is good to put some sealer on the threads, to prevent coolant from seeping, corroding the fasteners.
 
The studs go into the coolant jacket, so want them to be close to the correct length. This is why the threads are short on that end, so they only go in to the depth of the threaded holes. Because of this, it is good to put some sealer on the threads, to prevent coolant from seeping, corroding the fasteners.
Paints a good picture thank you.
 
If you have a bolt with the correct threads and want to prevent it from threading in too far, you can ding the threads with a punch to limit the travel.
 
McMaster Carr has the following, then you cut to length and "ding" the threads accordingly.
McMaster-Carr
95245A105

Those are the only M10 x 1.25 threads of ANYTHING they have. Need to buy the 300mm long or the 1M long version.
 
So what are you doing for the pump itself? OEM is discontinued, no?

I got mine from Mr. T, last week.
IMG_20180127_081129_020.webp
 
McMaster Carr has the following, then you cut to length and "ding" the threads accordingly.
McMaster-Carr
95245A105

Those are the only M10 x 1.25 threads of ANYTHING they have. Need to buy the 300mm long or the 1M long version.
Cool. Thats great and thank you. While were at it, and maybe we can put this whole hardware issue to bed, does anyone have a part number for an OEM nut that would fit 90116-10143 OR the threaded rod as referenced above? The upper PS bolt for the WP has to be small in diameter- like the OEM nut, to get a socket on it. Ill call Legacy in Tallahassee and see what I can find from them. I will post it back here if someone doesnt beat me to it. Thanks for pitching in everyone. :beer::beer::beer:
 
Oh, to add to the above post(s), Ive been playing around on McMaster Carr. I found Japanese (JIS) m10 1.25 flange nuts here

McMaster-Carr

But I do not think the head diameter is as narrow as an OEM.
 
Bel-Metric is a good source for both Threaded Rod and correct head size JIS nuts, flanged or regular hex:

8.8 Coarse & Fine Thread Rods : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair

I have correct JIS regular hex nuts in stainless and carbon steel as well. Hopefully that helps.

Holy crap where in the world have you been all my LC life. So you have them? Just poked around your site you're the Japanese Metric God. I I need 4 m10 1.25 flange nuts with a small head. Didnt see the flange but I havent looked everywhere yet. Can you help point me to where I can acquire these bad boys? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think the stainless would be just fine!
 
Been watching this thread over the last day or so, and wouldn't ya know it mine went out today. Fun times ahead.
I liked your post not because I like that your pump went out. You know its that I like that your hanging out like. I use very large format plotter/printer paper at work and I tape a big piece to the wall for shop notes. If you need them I'll take a pic of them. Set by step of every damn bolt/nut/sensor/belt I touched. Its not a hard job but it is timely. If you never dismantled the front it might help.
 
I don’t stock the flange hardware any longer. It’s not as often used, and relatively available online from other sources, so I started to focus on customized JIS regular hex. I’ll check my old stock bin and see if I have any in there. How many are needed?
 
I don’t stock the flange hardware any longer. It’s not as often used, and relatively available online from other sources, so I started to focus on customized JIS regular hex. I’ll check my old stock bin and see if I have any in there. How many are needed?

Id like 4 but if you sell in larger quantities I'd be happy to buy 20 or more to meet any minimum quantities and certainly for your trouble. I would also rather you get my money then Bel. Your help is just fantastic and I am so appreciative of your assistance. What a great experience. Thanks for the additional link! :clap:
 
I don’t stock the flange hardware any longer. It’s not as often used, and relatively available online from other sources, so I started to focus on customized JIS regular hex. I’ll check my old stock bin and see if I have any in there. How many are needed?
BTW, I ordered the recommended flange nuts from Bel. So just in case youre going to look around for nuts and waste your time trying to help me out. Please accept my gratitude for giving me a hand, and maybe I can order something from your business in the near future. Thanks again and very appreciative. This will pay dividends going forward for sure.
 
BTW, I ordered the recommended flange nuts from Bel. So just in case youre going to look around for nuts and waste your time trying to help me out. Please accept my gratitude for giving me a hand, and maybe I can order something from your business in the near future. Thanks again and very appreciative. This will pay dividends going forward for sure.

No sweat at all, glad you got taken care of.
 
Finally got WP and friends in. As everyone here knows its a great feeling to get them back on the road. Learned a bunch about the truck and saved quite a bit of money. Broke the water temp switch housing #8942860060, lost the cap to the BVSV valve #2582013020, cold start injector time switch #8946220040 female housing (truck side) is shattered worse than it was before, and the water temp sensor #8942220010 is so filled with crap its basically like cork inside. So almost all sensors are toast. Truck is hard to start in comparison to normal, then coughs a couple times then runs fine/great. Also throwing a CEL which I have not read, but surely is related to the toasted censor(s). So thats a basic recap.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but just wondering how your water pump studs worked out... I have the same problem. Stock studs are toast. Did you end up using the 90116-10143 studs? Any issues?
 
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