Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (3 Viewers)

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Post up if it works I'm curious I don't need one now but it is inevitable
Ok, ordered from toyotapartsdeal, a bit pricey, and their site says it does not fit my 91, but I think it's worth a shot to get a toyota part, even if I need to figure out how to make it work. I believe it is just a manual ball valve, how vastly different can it be? If it proves impossible I can always sell it to someone here with a 92-95, or return it. In the interim, I'll keep some extra hose and couple clamps in the rig. Will follow up.
 
Offroading and DD will never go hand in hand. I say build it up, regear, and enjoy the hell out of it. The 3FE is bullet proof, and knowing your HG wont blow is worth it than the extra cost of the 1FZ-FE, and even then, it will still be slow with all the extra weight. I live on sea level and my 91 serves me well even with 35s. I wasnt actively searching for a 3FE power plant, but now i am glad i did.
 
Thank you, Marco Lau- There is definitely a plus for ease of working and long lasting motors. May just end up holding on to it & having fun!
Cheers!
 
Ok, ordered from toyotapartsdeal, a bit pricey, and their site says it does not fit my 91, but I think it's worth a shot to get a toyota part, even if I need to figure out how to make it work. I believe it is just a manual ball valve, how vastly different can it be? If it proves impossible I can always sell it to someone here with a 92-95, or return it. In the interim, I'll keep some extra hose and couple clamps in the rig. Will follow up.
OK, this is how vastly they are different. Apologies for the night shots-
1. parts are certainly not the same- The new part (87240-60140) is for 1992, guess parts changed in between, the one on the rig (91) I think is original or proper denso replacement back in the day they were around.
2. harder to tell from photos alone, but they look almost like mirror images of each other, original flow left to right, new part right to left. mounting bracket appears a little different, but not opposite from what I can tell.

3. To make it work I will have to play with both off. The valve housing can be taken off the bracket and maybe inverted and reattached to be made to fit, but then the actuator lever will be on top, not bottom as the original is. Tried it, nope. Maybe reuse the old bracket, mount the new valve. .....hmm

4. Open to all suggestions, it's not an immediate need so feel free to ponder it.


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That is nuts it's the same motor in a 92 I wonder why they made the change I would like to see a 92 with this on for comparison. Any 92 owners?
Yeah, the website said it fits 92-95 which is even weirder bc then engine changed in that period.

As far as use goes I'm no engineer but I can not tell what makes it unidirectional, besides the arrow. Looks like it should work right no matter what direction.
 
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I ordered a valve from Rock Auto for my 91. What they sent looks just like what I have currently installed (not sure of originality), except the new one has bosses on either side. It looks like it could be mounted either direction for proper flow. I haven't tried to install it yet, but I'm pretty sure it will work.

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That looks exactly like the new toyota part, sans bracket. flow direction indicator is opposite what is installed on my 91'. How does that compare to what is under your hood? Where is the actuator lever on your rock auto part? Can't see it from the pic.
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The way I am holding the one in the picture is how the one is currently installed in my 91, looking at it from the front. Arrow points the same direction. The only difference is there are mounting bosses on each side, so it looks like it can go the other way. It came with some screws as well, so I believe I remove the old one from the bracket, then install the new one on it. Arm swaps over too.

That being said, my front heat doesn't get very warm, so I leave it off and let the rear heater warm the cabin. Maybe what I have in there is backwards and limits flow through it. I need to research and see if the arrow should be going the other way.
 
Mine is installed as pictured above, the new denso unit does not have mounting holes on both sides and flow looks like it should go in the other direction. It also looks like the one wit's end has for later models. considering both ours are installed with the arrow going from left to right when looking at the firewall, I'd say that is correct.

After looking up ball valve tech online (BALL VALVE DESIGN FEATURES: A Literature-Part-2 of 4 – What is Piping ), if I understand it correctly (big if), It seems like these valves are in fact unidirectional, when I look in the valve with it closed, the ball is open a bit on the side where fluid enters, but fully closed on the exit side. So, the design may use the pressure created from the small opening on the "flow in" side to press the closed end side up against the housing to create a pressurized seal. That would mean it must be installed in the correct direction to seal right. Hmm. I figure I will order the rock auto version. always seems like a good idea to experiment when there is a chance of success- not so much when it does not work out, lol. At least not that big of a fail.

I'll return the Denso unit, Rock auto is about $75 less, so thank you for saving me the cash @4 ADVNTR.
 
Post up when you get it in. I likely won't do mine until sometime in the Fall when it cools down. I'm interested to know if it works for sure.
 
FYI on an RMA to toyotapartsdeal on the above part that is the wrong one. I requested an RMA to return it, they first denied claiming it was an electrical part where there are no returns, I used the online chat bc I was at work to follow up bc the part is purely mechanical, they checked and confirmed it was not electrical, sent me an RMA, and shipping label for the trouble, so far so good, except there is a 20% restocking fee, unless I order the correct part, however, we all know OEM is NLA. Might try to see if I can order something else to not eat the 20%, driver seat could use new bottom foam. Will update. It's a bit of a hassle but lets see what happens, if it does not work out maybe someone in the 1FZ section here needs it or I can trade it for some swag from @NLXTACY . If it does work out, the lesson is don't take the first "NO" for an answer.

Got nothing done on the 80 this weekend, but got my CJ ready for sale, it's been a rolling restore for 4 years, more money in parts, welding and labor than I care to admit, but the 80 is a big step up, besides, might have to make room for a 97 with lockers....it's certainly a pleasurable sickness isn't it. lol
 
FYI on an RMA to toyotapartsdeal on the above part that is the wrong one. I requested an RMA to return it, they first denied claiming it was an electrical part where there are no returns, I used the online chat bc I was at work to follow up bc the part is purely mechanical, they checked and confirmed it was not electrical, sent me an RMA, and shipping label for the trouble, so far so good, except there is a 20% restocking fee, unless I order the correct part, however, we all know OEM is NLA. Might try to see if I can order something else to not eat the 20%, driver seat could use new bottom foam. Will update. It's a bit of a hassle but lets see what happens, if it does not work out maybe someone in the 1FZ section here needs it or I can trade it for some swag from @NLXTACY . If it does work out, the lesson is don't take the first "NO" for an answer.

Got nothing done on the 80 this weekend, but got my CJ ready for sale, it's been a rolling restore for 4 years, more money in parts, welding and labor than I care to admit, but the 80 is a big step up, besides, might have to make room for a 97 with lockers....it's certainly a pleasurable sickness isn't it. lol
OK, returned the oem part, TPD reduced the restocking fee by half bc the part is NLA. No big deal. Got the rock auto part and the design is correct for flow direction, however, the valve appears to be reversible b/c there is no opening on the "flow in" side, to create a pressure seal on the flow out side. Will only know if the oem part is the same once I need to replace it. Visually, compared to the wrong oem part, build construction seems to be about 80% for the rock auto version. I'll certainly be waiting to replace it. Probably TMI for most, but I know you OCD guys "get it". Yes- replied to my own thread, lol.
 
Just picked up my first Land Cruiser. 1997 with 150k miles on it. Great shape, but needs some work on a few issues. Gas Filler pipe is leaking and belts need to be done. Also, looks like exhaust going over axle got smashed and the thing sounds awful. Looking forward to wrenching on it and learning from the forums.

In NJ and Catskills
1997 Land Cruiser
 
Just picked up my first Land Cruiser. 1997 with 150k miles on it. Great shape, but needs some work on a few issues. Gas Filler pipe is leaking and belts need to be done. Also, looks like exhaust going over axle got smashed and the thing sounds awful. Looking forward to wrenching on it and learning from the forums.

In NJ and Catskills
1997 Land Cruiser

Congrats! This thread is for 1991 and 1992 FJ80's that came with the old but reliable 3-FE engine. Yours has the 1FZ-FE engine which has more power but more problems that the 3-FE. Notable weak spots are the head gasket and PHH or "Pesky Heater Hose". My guess is that with that many miles, both have been addressed on yours, but you should check the PHH for sure. Welcome to the forum, these guys are 80 series experts.
 

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