3 Link, Currie Rear Axle, Rear Coilovers and Long Travel IFS FJC Build (and more)
- Thread starter FJNewb
- Start date
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what are you doing for the front cv's? theres going to be some serious angles on the joints and there going to wear fast or blow the boots. good lookin work on the truck
I worry abou tthat on mine as well, Brian. That is why I wanted to get the RCVs so bad...and yours has more width and droop.
- Thread starter
- #25
CVs will be fine, the angle isn't substantially different from any 3" lift kit or 2" Long Travel kit (only slightly greater (few degrees) due to the additional rotation in the Camburg uniballs). What is gaining you the additional travel is mainly the width of the front suspension, allowing for larger wheel travel at the same angles as a normal suspension setup would. Draw up a free body diagram with the suspension at OEM width at various angels and then add in the additional 2" or 3.5" and you'll see how the additional travel is gained.
From what I've seen those who have broke them were doing something dumb or gave it too much skinney pedal. Regardless I'd rather have the CV as the weak link than anything else....much easier to replace those on the trail than a differential or transfercase.
From what I've seen those who have broke them were doing something dumb or gave it too much skinney pedal. Regardless I'd rather have the CV as the weak link than anything else....much easier to replace those on the trail than a differential or transfercase.
so are you running longer axles since the front is wider, or do the stock still fit?
- Thread starter
- #28
Actual wheels and tires I'll be running came in
Once the fenders get setup and the axles are changed over to 3.5" axle it should moving under its own power for awhile. Then out comes the lefty and in goes some modifications to the drivetrain tunnel to fit an Atlas 2 + crawlbox.
Once the fenders get setup and the axles are changed over to 3.5" axle it should moving under its own power for awhile. Then out comes the lefty and in goes some modifications to the drivetrain tunnel to fit an Atlas 2 + crawlbox.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
congrats.. looks like you are trully using all the fender space available .. sweet !
Incredible build thread 
tires are Pit Bull Rocker's, what size are you running?
That's not so bad considering they are a 12.50. My SSR's in 35x10.5x16 weigh in at 98 lbs each, with the steel beadlocks, 133 lbs...
- Thread starter
- #36
Wow thats a heavy tire. Boggled my mind them weighing that much, doesn't interco advertise them at 76lbs for 35x10.5x16?
Although I think I'm more impressed your steel beadlocks only weigh 35lbs. Thats on the light side for a 17" aluminum beadlocks I looked at. All the steel ones (Staz's and others) were closer to 50lbs or more.
Pitbulls are around 78lbs a piece. Thats about 12-20lbs heavier than most other 35x12.5" tires that I've seen.
Although I think I'm more impressed your steel beadlocks only weigh 35lbs. Thats on the light side for a 17" aluminum beadlocks I looked at. All the steel ones (Staz's and others) were closer to 50lbs or more.
Pitbulls are around 78lbs a piece. Thats about 12-20lbs heavier than most other 35x12.5" tires that I've seen.
That sounds right, the wheel being ~22 lbs. The steel beadlocks are made out of FJ80 steelies and a kit from Stan @ Toyoutfitters. These only have beadlock on the outboard bead, others may have both beads locked, adding the weight of the extra steel rings and associated nuts/bolts/washers...
as right now on the stock 17 wheel i have firestone destination AT 285/70/17 , but im planning on doing body chop and getting Black Alloy 7089 17x9 with offset -6 and some mean looking tires size 33x12.5x17 =]
1911
chupacabra
Central Texas trailer trash - truck up on blocks, license plate zip-tied on!
I wish that when I lived in Texas, the trucks up on cinder blocks in the yard all looked like this one.