2UZ-FE into FJ60

[Tapage]

wondering about swaps and little hijack ..

Any 2JZ in a Cruiser . ?

hijack off ..

 

[FJ40Jim]

wondering about swaps and little hijack ..

Any 2JZ in a Cruiser . ?

hijack off ..

It's a fine little engine, but it wouldn't make sense to swap the big 4.5L truck engine for the little 3.0L passenger car engine.

It would make sense in a minitruck to replace a 22RE or 3VZE.

 

[matt60/80]

i dont want chevy junk in my Cruiser.

I agree 100%. Personally I would look for a 1FZ out of a 93 or 94 80. Again you need the wiring harness but the tranny is independent of the engine's computer. Again you would have to source an H151 or H150 but I honestly think it would be very close to the stock mounting. I honestly think it could be done with minimal fab work.

 

[Tapage]

It's a fine little engine,

yap .. but very capable 5K upgrade and you are in the 600 HP range ..

 

[bustanutley]

I agree 100%. Personally I would look for a 1FZ out of a 93 or 94 80. Again you need the wiring harness but the tranny is independent of the engine's computer. Again you would have to source an H151 or H150 but I honestly think it would be very close to the stock mounting. I honestly think it could be done with minimal fab work.

You are all over the place, what is your opposition to the 2UZ? A 1FZ project is going to be very similar, but in the end you are going to end up with half the power, no thanks.

 

[matt60/80]

I'm partial to inline sixes. My views are based on the fact that swapping a 350 is well documented, there are many tuning options for them, and they are cheap. Also you don't have to worry about a computer if you get a carbed version.

The 2UZ has no cheap tuning options, requires a computer, and if you're using a North American computer you are limited to using an A343. And it has a timing belt.

I suggested a 350 when the OP stated that a 2UZ swap would probably be too expensive. If you want V8 power and don't want to spend time figuring out the wiring harness, custom ECUs, etc, a 350 is the logical choice.

 

[stinkyfj60]

it's not that the 2UZ would be too expensive, in $$. it just might not be worth the hassle vs. buying a UZJ100.

but i like my 60 more.

 

[hotwire_one]

The bellhousings on the 1uz and the 2uz are the same. Lextreme has a write up on how you can mate a maunual (mini truck w or r series) to the bell housing with their adapter.

1uzfe Q&A, 1uzfe information and swap

A guy on V-Eight.com has a a solid works file you can buy from him that you can take to a machine shop and have cut out.

Slee off road has put a 2uz into an fj 60 shell

If you can mate a 2uz to an R series trans to a mini truck t-case, to an LC split case,

i think this could work

 

[hotwire_one]

Custom Component Fabrication • Toyota 1UZ-FE & 2UZ-FE V8 Technical and Performance Forums

 

[bustanutley]

I'm partial to inline sixes. My views are based on the fact that swapping a 350 is well documented, there are many tuning options for them, and they are cheap. Also you don't have to worry about a computer if you get a carbed version.”

So you are going to swap a carb’d push rod motor for another card’d push rod motor? That’s worth the effort.

The 2UZ has no cheap tuning options

They run just peachy stock, but, there is a lot you can do mixing UZ parts. Superchargers can be found for reasonable. Beyond that, you will have to open your wallet wide for any power plant, but, it really isn’t warranted.

requires a computer,

So does any modern engine with EFI. Carburetors? WTF, Are you crazy?

if you're using a North American computer you are limited to using an A343

Like I said before, I’m not read up on what you have to do, but, manuals have been put behind them, as have domestic autos, I’m pretty certain you can fool the ECU. However, the 2uz a343 combo rocks.

And it has a timing belt.

Oh My God, NO! It has a timing belt! It has to be changed every 100K! Give me a break, as long as the required maintenance is done, the belt won’t give you trouble, Its an easy job.

I suggested a 350 when the OP stated that a 2UZ swap would probably be too expensive. If you want V8 power and don't want to spend time figuring out the wiring harness, custom ECUs, etc, a 350 is the logical choice.

Once again barf. You can get a complete 2UZ for $1500 and less all day long, they are in a ton of trucks. The wiring is not hard, but you won’t understand that till you see the harness. Your argument reads like, “If you want a V8, bury your head in the sand and use a SBC. Why you ask? because that is what has always been done! Don’t question me and the gods of push rod V8s! Furthermore, do any and everything to put a straight six in, I like those.”

In the end, its just a little bit more effort and a little bit more money to end up with a much nicer conversion, with a much nicer powerplant. I wouldn’t touch anything with a s***ty SBC, but, maybe that’s just me.

 

[tclark]

You say that like the chevys are crap. I'm all for keeping it yota and all too but get your head out of the sand---no way anyone can argue that the sbc isn't a good motor. Seriously?

 

[bustanutley]

no way anyone can argue that the sbc isn't a good motor.

Sure, they work

 

[stinkyfj60]

Sure, they work

and are a dime a dozen and overrated.

 

[tclark]

Yup, highly overrated. Good thing they're not used for much.
Why exactly is the yota engine so superior?

 

[matt60/80]

So you are going to swap a carb’d push rod motor for another card’d push rod motor? That’s worth the effort.



They run just peachy stock, but, there is a lot you can do mixing UZ parts. Superchargers can be found for reasonable. Beyond that, you will have to open your wallet wide for any power plant, but, it really isn’t warranted.



So does any modern engine with EFI. Carburetors? WTF, Are you crazy?



Like I said before, I’m not read up on what you have to do, but, manuals have been put behind them, as have domestic autos, I’m pretty certain you can fool the ECU. However, the 2uz a343 combo rocks.



Oh My God, NO! It has a timing belt! It has to be changed every 100K! Give me a break, as long as the required maintenance is done, the belt won’t give you trouble, Its an easy job.



Once again barf. You can get a complete 2UZ for $1500 and less all day long, they are in a ton of trucks. The wiring is not hard, but you won’t understand that till you see the harness. Your argument reads like, “If you want a V8, bury your head in the sand and use a SBC. Why you ask? because that is what has always been done! Don’t question me and the gods of push rod V8s! Furthermore, do any and everything to put a straight six in, I like those.”

In the end, its just a little bit more effort and a little bit more money to end up with a much nicer conversion, with a much nicer powerplant. I wouldn’t touch anything with a s***ty SBC, but, maybe that’s just me.

Nice that you're so vocal on the issue. A lot of people don't want to touch wiring. I never said the A343 was a bad tranny, but if you want a manual then you MUST source a Toyota ECU for THAT engine WITH a manual. And an adapter for the t-case as the 60's won't mate with it. This is not a simple swap. It involves a lot time and effort to pull off.

And oh yeah, the Chevy engine must be junk. It's only the most produced engine in history. Doesn't come close to the mightly 2F. Oh wait, that's also based on a Chevy engine. I'm done with you, you're on my ignore list.

For everyone else I love the 2F in my 60 and wouldn't trade it out for anything. The OP asked what was involved with dropping in a 2UZ and I gave what I thought.

 

[stinkyfj60]

cool! i have a lot of stuff to look at. and think about...

thanks for the links and info.

 

[Toyoland66]

Warning - Long post ahead

I have been looking into this quite a bit the last few days, there is a 2UZ-FE for sale locally that I am trying to pick up. Here is the approach that I would take on the conversion using a pre 2003 (non DBW non VVTI) engine:

I am going to try to mate it to a H42/ Split Case. I will be building a custom bellhousing by taking a 2F bellhousing and cutting the engine side off of it and welding on a flat plate drilled to 2UZ pattern, The amount cutoff and thickness of the flat plate depends on the depth difference between bellhousing surface/ crank face surface on the 2F vs 2UZ-FE engine block.

For the flywheel I want to retain the 2UZ-FE Flexplate and starter, and machine an adapter that would bolt to the 2UZ crank/ flexplate, and be hub-centric to a 2F Flywheel, and hold a 2F pilot bearing. The 6 bolt mounting holes in the 2F flywheel will need to be welded shut, and re-drilled to the 8 bolt 2UZ pattern. The thickness of the adapter depends on the bellhousing specifics as noted above. This approach will allow for the use of the larger 2F clutch as a common concern with the manual conversions using a W58 or R series transmission is the holding power of the smaller N/A supra clutch commonly used.

Obviously it would be easier to use the A340F and adapt to a minitruck reduction box but that drivetrain gets pretty long for a FJ40. Using the A340F would also reduce some of the wiring complexity. There are several computer isues that need to be addressed.

Using the manual a VSS will be required. The A340F uses a 4 pulse per revolution inductive pickup sensor. it is the two pieces in the lower right:

My plan is to adapt the 4 prong piece to the tail end of the split case input shaft, shown here:

and mount the VSS in a modified steel tailhousing cover where it could pick up the reading.

If using the A340F this sensor is already in place, but installing it this way in the split case would place the VSS on a 1/1 with the transmission output - similar to the A340F since it is pre-reduction in the transfer case. An additional VSS may be required on the t-case output where the speedo drive gear attaches but I don't know for sure.

The next computer issue is the neutral safety switch, this is built into the A340F as well. My work around would be to use a clutch safety switch from a tacoma with the start in gear over-ride switch. This will fool the computer to think the vehicle is in neutral when the clutch is engaged. On several of the manual conversions with 1UZ's people simply jump this circuit in the ECU to think the vehicle is always in neutral but I think this is a better solution.

The next computer item is the evap system/ charcoal canister, this would be adressed by using the charcoal canister that comes from the Tundra which I believe is the same unit used in several toyota vehicles including the tacoma. The donor vehicle system would need to be mimicked.

O2 sensors from the donor vehicle would be used, as well as the MAF and fuse box/ relay box (ideally).

Additional items needed are an electric fuel pump capable of putting out 38-44 PSI, and a fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on or near the fuel rail (my 79 has a fuel return line to the fuel tank already) A CEL would be installed in the guage panel.

I believe that this would allow the engine to run/ drive without throwing any codes or going into limp mode.

If using a 2003+ engine with drive by wire/ VVT I think that using the donor vehicle A340F or A750F (Cruiser 5 speed auto) would be the best option, and then figure out how to mate it to your transfer case.

Please let me know what I am missing.

 

[FJ40Jim]

I am going to try to mate it to a H42/ Split Case. I will be building a custom bellhousing by taking a 2F bellhousing and cutting the engine side off of it and welding on a flat plate drilled to 2UZ pattern, The amount cutoff and thickness of the flat plate depends on the depth difference between bellhousing surface/ crank face surface on the 2F vs 2UZ-FE engine block.

This sounds pretty straightforward. Some people say it will be impossible to get a good weld between the thin, brittle cast iron BH and the ~3/8" mild steel horseshoe that will be welded to it.

An additional VSS may be required on the t-case output where the speedo drive gear attaches but I don't know for sure.

Probly don't need 2 VSS's. On the applications that have 2 separate VSS, one feeds the ECU and one feed the instrument cluster. If using the Cruiser t-case, the stock speedo cable can be retained to drive the stock speedo. The 4 prong signal generator will feed the ECU.

The next computer item is the evap system/ charcoal canister, this would be adressed by using the charcoal canister that comes from the Tundra which I believe is the same unit used in several toyota vehicles including the tacoma. The donor vehicle system would need to be mimicked.

Any 78-newer Cruiser has a robust evap system built into the chassis. Is it necessary to remove and replace w/ a different evap system? Worst case, the old system won't play nice with the newer ECu and it will throw an evap code. It won't go into limp mode. The ECU can be reflashed to eliminate any evap monitoring.

Additional items needed are an electric fuel pump capable of putting out 38-44 PSI, and a fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator which is mounted on or near the fuel rail (my 79 has a fuel return line to the fuel tank already) A CEL would be installed in the guage panel.

I believe that this would allow the engine to run/ drive without throwing any codes or going into limp mode.

You're definitely on the right track.

 

[Toyoland66]

This sounds pretty straightforward. Some people say it will be impossible to get a good weld between the thin, brittle cast iron BH and the ~3/8" mild steel horseshoe that will be welded to it.

That is definately a concern, I haven't had a chance to look at my spare bellhousing to see the thickness here, the other option that had crossed my mind was to simply use an adapter plate to adapt the round UZ pattern to the rectangle 2F pattern and use the 2F starter, but I think the UZ is too wide for this. I think with the proper pre-heat and rod the cast bellhousing could probably be welded to.

Probly don't need 2 VSS's. On the applications that have 2 separate VSS, one feeds the ECU and one feed the instrument cluster. If using the Cruiser t-case, the stock speedo cable can be retained to drive the stock speedo. The 4 prong signal generator will feed the ECU.

The second VSS does feed the speedo on the donor vehicle, but the tail side of the speedo (supposedly from what I read) then converts that signal back to 4 pulse and feeds the computer, this is what lead me to believe I may need two four pulse inputs for vehicle speed. I could just put two pickups on the 4 prong inductor if this is the case, I need to research this more.

Any 78-newer Cruiser has a robust evap system built into the chassis. Is it necessary to remove and replace w/ a different evap system? Worst case, the old system won't play nice with the newer ECu and it will throw an evap code. It won't go into limp mode. The ECU can be reflashed to eliminate any evap monitoring.

I haven't found many places that can reflash the 2UZ computer, I was just hoping to eliminate any issues by using the evap system that is programmed in and designed to plug in and work with the 2UZ, it all depends on whether I can get a charcoal canister from the donor vehicle or from a junkyard without spending much money. A new one is about $300 from toyota.

You're definitely on the right track.

Thanks, I have been thinking about this way too much, I hope it works out

 

[Bret]

I originally had a couple doubts but after starting to mock it up it looks like it won't be that bad. We are putting it in a buddies 40. Here are a couple pics before he had to head back for a few months. It seems like a great motor and it should be almost completely OEM Toyota once in the 40. It will be neat to see one in a 60. Keep the thread updated so we can come back for reference

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/430343-2uz-swap-into-my-78-40-a.html