schow- $450 is the price for both headers or is that per side?
2nd group buy on DT Headers?
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$450! I feel like i'm going to be in trouble. I talked a friend who has a local shop in to doing mine for $200. Can't wait to see how this turns out. I better bring the beer and give him a hand!
When I put mine on my 00 LC, I paid a friend to do it and I helped. I paid him 300 and it took us about 1.5 days. We took our time. Its not really all that difficult, its just time consuming.
I would think anywhere between 300-500 would be a decent price for both sides. Has the shop that quoted you 200 done this on a LC yet? I am not sure they know what they are getting into if they only quoted you 200.
It is a solid 6-7 hour job if you are a decent wrench and 8-9 if you are not....Just my opinion.
6-7 hours per side or 6-7 hours for both headers?
For both sides. The driver's side is much more difficult because of the steering that gets in the way. The PS is very easy to change out. (provided you don't have any seized studs)
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Smm3 - which way did you take the headers out? Did you go through the top of the motor or the sneaky wheel arches into the side of the engine compartment?
We removed both wheels and it gives a lot more room to work with. For both, we dropped them from the bottom. The DS was tricky to get out though. We disconnected the exhaust from the body to give some more wiggle room. It seemed easier than removing the steering. We didn't know what was involved in replacing the steering components after they were disconnected. The PS could be removed from the wheel arches.
Not to interject into your question to smm3, but there's only one way out and it's down past the collector. To facilitate this, I removed the collector and put it on the ground to give me space. Others have swung it out of the way. Include collector gaskets on you parts list; you can re-use, but at 77k miles mine were worn.
A few other pointers - you'll need to raise the engine a bit. I used a floor jack with a wooden block at the rear of the engine near the bell housing. Remember to remove the engine mount top nut on the respective side first. It only needs to come up about 1".
The O2 sensors won't reach their new location. You'll need to remove their wiring from the clips to re-route them. No cutting of wires is required. It's a bit of a bear to reach all the clips and impossible to do with the new headers in place so do this step once the manifolds are out but before the headers are in. Zip tie the O2 sensor wires to keep them from drooping on the hot headers and shorting out.
On the DS, the steering shaft needs to be loosened at the top and bottom. Then it slides up first to disconnect at the rack then slides back down to come off the column. Re-index it at the rack if needed (IIRC, the column is keyed).
Also on the DS, the dipstick is in the way. Just remove it and plug the hole with a rag. It must go back before the headers or you won't be able to replace the dipstick holding bolt.
A few other pointers - you'll need to raise the engine a bit. I used a floor jack with a wooden block at the rear of the engine near the bell housing. Remember to remove the engine mount top nut on the respective side first. It only needs to come up about 1".
The O2 sensors won't reach their new location. You'll need to remove their wiring from the clips to re-route them. No cutting of wires is required. It's a bit of a bear to reach all the clips and impossible to do with the new headers in place so do this step once the manifolds are out but before the headers are in. Zip tie the O2 sensor wires to keep them from drooping on the hot headers and shorting out.
On the DS, the steering shaft needs to be loosened at the top and bottom. Then it slides up first to disconnect at the rack then slides back down to come off the column. Re-index it at the rack if needed (IIRC, the column is keyed).
Also on the DS, the dipstick is in the way. Just remove it and plug the hole with a rag. It must go back before the headers or you won't be able to replace the dipstick holding bolt.
This doesnt sound very complicated.
Just had mine installed. Y'all are going to be pleased with the sound of the engine. I follow Consumer Reports' used auto reliability reviews and at 5 years' age I noticed that the 2000 LC was getting a total failing grade on its exhaust system. Then a couple of years after that, I finally found out why - click click click click click.......
Not a problem at all. It's all about helping fellow members.
Below are the page numbers in the original thread I printed that assisted us in changing out both sides:
24, 26,27,30,31,32, and 34.
All of these pages included helpful tips by other members that made the install go much easier for us. Everything OregonLC is correct and these tips, plus several more are in the pages I listed. Hope this helps.
Trying to get deposit in 
Just called but nobody answered. Sent them email too. hopefully they respond soon
Just called but nobody answered. Sent them email too. hopefully they respond soon 
You got yours already?
Thanks! Toyota was kind enough to buy back my Tacoma for frame corrosion, so I thought it was a good time to upgrade to the LC. This is a great website, I've already leveled the LC, flushed the PS, removed the woodgrain, and leatheriqued the leather thanks to some of the great write ups. I just sent cruiser Dan a PM for parts for a timing belt replacement. I think I'll have suspension, bumpers, and 33s before the Summer is over!
I've been trying to get in touch with Nick to give him a deposit, I will be in for a set as well. Cant wait for the tick to go away and see how well they preform.
When I placed my order I was told that these would take 2 months at least to be reaching customers. That would equate to early August roughly.
