2nd Gen 4Runner/3rd Gen Pickup Fast-Flash Mod Help?

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Since I know you can modify an earlier model relay to stop the fast flash symptom when doing a turn signal integration
using either a smaller wattage (RESISTANCE/DRAW) bulb or LED. I thought it might be a good idea to try it out on one of my spare relays.
I'll say after trying 4 different ways of either shorting or bypassing the resistors, I am still unable to stop the fast flash on the 81980-12070 relay.

If someone with more electronic knowledge wants to tackle and solve this all the power to you, and post the solution for the rest of us.

The word cloud points highlight the areas I've already tried, each respective resistor tried only once before resoldering and trying another point.
*In other words, I fixed the resistor if the attempt didn't work to verify it was still an operable system.
File
 
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Since I know you can modify an earlier model relay to stop the fast flash symptom when doing a turn signal integration
using either a smaller wattage (RESISTANCE/DRAW) bulb or LED. I thought it might be a good idea to try it out on one of my spare relays.
I'll say after trying 4 different ways of either shorting or bypassing the resistors, I am still unable to stop the fast flash on the 81980-12070 relay.

If someone with more electronic knowledge wants to tackle and solve this all the power to you, and post the solution for the rest of us.

The word cloud points highlight the areas I've already tried, each respective resistor tried only once before resoldering and trying another point.
*In other words, I fixed the resistor if the attempt didn't work to verify it was still an operable system.
File

I've got a pic at home I saved from Yotatech that might be what you are looking for.....will post up later. :cheers:
 
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Cool, I'm all for getting other options to try..post a pic and I'll give it a shot if I have yet to try that idea.

Here's what's being said on another forum..

Robinhood4x4 said:
I vaguely remember a guy on pirate who did this successfully, years ago. I doubt I could find it now, but you might want to try searching there.

NorCalBorn said:
Thanks Robinhood, been there, done that, and nothing to find. Part of the stuff that's either been archive wiped or part of that whole 4RnrRick debacle and post deletions. That post was all about clipping the #7 leg off of the chip, which I did by means of shorting the large resistor.

I'll play with it a little more this winter, but I would hope someone can offer better ideas than what I've already tried.

Not only did I try shorting* each resistor from each respective side (+/-) but also tried to jumper each one and still got nothing to show for it.

(*You'll notice each point tried has been marked w/ black sharpie to make it easier for others to try fixing.)
 
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I linked to that pic in another post and yeah, that will not translate into the newer relay, even though designed similarly and why when I initially went about things I attempted the resistors first.
 
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will the older style flasher work in yours? If they both use the same style plug, just junkyard and modify the older style flasher
 
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I never had an issue until I ditched the front signal lights because of my stinger bumper.

It never happened until I got the cheap signal lights..........it even blows fuses every great once in a while.

Good thread:cheers:
 
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Already tried the older style relay, fuse issues b/c of different current draw on the newer system. The old style relied on capacitoras and resistors while the new ones rely on a chip. I'm not interested in redoing burnt electrical lines. :hillbilly:
*..and I'm still not at the point of wanting to do a conversion harness, basically this tech applied to the turn signals:
HeadlightSG-SP.gif
 
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I'd need to know which resistor to reverse the polarity of to get it to work I believe, and that is why I need someone w/ more experience here. Basically you'd treat things the way you do with the 3VZE to 5VZ tachometer resistor mod.

I just tried all the other points I could think of based on the Heep example above, including switching sides of the chip since the Toyota relay's switched hot versus ground. No luck and my two spare play and not care relays now both have fried chips because of the last two tries.

Updated pic in a second..(I have to mark off the recent test points. The boards cooked pretty bad so I'm going to recycle the pic from above.)

Again, trying to bypass the legs of the chip only fried the things.. :(
File
 
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re: ^Above..

Now what is left to try as far as the chip solution would be, counting from the view of the pic above in this order,

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

Break the circuit above the #2 leg.

Break the circuit between the #2 and #6 legs (middle of the two).

*Then I need to hit up the local auto yard to grab a couple more "victims" to go all "scientific" on. :lol:
 
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This gets away from the flasher mod but it may have some relivance. Equilizing the bulb types may solve the issue with the use of LED bulbs for the front turn signals.
Speedway Motors - Product Summary

In the '90's some Chevy trucks came out with an oddball 3457 bulb that would freak out the flash rate if a 3157 bulb was used with the 3457, simple making all the bulbs the same (either one) brought it back to normal flash rate.
 
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I thought the problem with the LED's was the change in resistance vs. a standard bulb? Can't you just test the bulbs, and test the LED and add a resistor to bump the ohms back to where the standard bulbs were? IE, put a resistor inline with the bulbs?

That is the way I always heard of people doing it.
Ya'll are trying to get fancy. :hillbilly:
 
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Hey everyone, since I was playing around with this topic this weekend and found this over in the 80 series forum I thought to clip the link in here..

re: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/213060-definitive-led-thread-80s-3.html#post3746840

I'm gonna look into this and see if it will also work with the 4Runner and post up the results asap. :D

Tuner flashers no more!!

The OE flasher is located in the driver's side kick panel about as far forward as you can go. Turn on the hazards and let the clicking be your guide;)

From what I could gather, the stock flasher is a EP-34 type and according to Landtank's heavy duty flasher upgrade thread Toyota swapped the E and B legs from the norm and used a jumper to reverse the leads. Instead of rewiring the 80, I swapped the jumper over to the new flasher.

Napa carries an EP-34 flasher rated for LEDs, 2-6 lamps, 12.8v, and 162W max (might read 182W max...the ink is blurry). Part number EP-34 and $14.00. The other chains had the same Tridon flasher for around $9. I went for the $14 one to support the shop that dug through the books to find it. Thank you NAPA:)

Works perfectly! :grinpimp: I also want to note that cutting the pin7 LD (Lamp Failure Detection) circuit from the IC chip of the OE relay DID NOT work...

Toyota part 81980-12070 166500-0300 27W Max 4 Bulbs

More pics for reference. You can see in the 2nd pic the cover needed to be notched to fit over the new relay tabs.
 
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That is the way I always heard of people doing it.
Ya'll are trying to get fancy. :hillbilly:


x2... Not claiming I know ANYTHING about electronics, but I can tell you that everybody with a motorcycle that WAS regular bulbs and went to LED had to wire in a resistor.


I think that resistor you guys are talking about getting rid of, is the resistor for the temperamental side....

:meh:

Wire in a resistor and keep the temperamental? :hmm:
 
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Cheaper, Faster, Better, Pick Two, then forget it all.

The resistor's an easy and cheap fix, 5 to 10 ohm, 50 watt, ceramic or alloy cased ceramic style.

Again, a cheap and easy fix, which I don't want to use, as it needs to be on the front apron, in IMHO, harm's way. Why do something to only have to redo it later on? This is the reason electronic flash relays are made. The thing will work, I have seen it done with the EP-34, and I tried it myself, but I (think) I forgot to reinstall the reverse jumper to make it work with the way Toyota grounded the system. I like to do things the hard way because I like to waste my time(?).
:lol:
 

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