2F with 3FE head and CPU

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Tylerh84

Tylerh84

Joined
Jan 13, 2018
Threads
48
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772
Location
Cartersville, GA
Hey everyone, I have done some research and from what i gather the 3FE head will bolt on the 2F block without an issue at least for my year 2F. I would basically turn it into a stroker 3FE and allow me to have fuel injection which i think would really help ol' girl out with power and MPG.

Any insight on this or where i can source everything cheap? I have seen a few 80 series part out locally.
 
So, I did a 3FE swap on my 60 and probably have all of my hand notes around somewhere. Honestly, it's not that hard, but it will be time consuming and cost a lot more than it seems it should up front. You still have a very analog engine mating to an analog chassis so you just have to dig through the harness and get stuff hooked up. That said, many say the "2FE" is the engine Toyota should have built and love the performance of a 2FE. Do beware though, the 2F block is a 4 bolt main and are known to break crankshafts (as is the 3FE block).

I suggest reading through my write up. Most of the work aside from the mechanical will be the same...

forum.ih8mud.com

3FE Conversion Write-Up

80 Series 3FE Conversion Write-Up I'm in the middle of a 3FE conversion on my 85 FJ60 and figured I would add my part to the world of LC knowledge. I only have weekends to work on this so info will come about accordingly. Some background... I drove my truck from IL to CA and probably over...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Now, for the curve ball. Have you looked into a 1FZ? You will not be able to retain your H55f. unless they finally come out with an adapter (someone is working on that... Wits end?) or you cut a 1FZ and your existing bell housing in half and weld them together (folks have actually done this). You would either need use the A440 auto presumably with the AWD t-case it comes with, or adapt your part time t-case which has certainly been done, but you will end up with an engine that is waaaaaaaaaaaaay more powerful, uses waaaaaaaaaaaay less fuel, and has parts availability much better than the 2F or 3FE.

The electrical side will be about the same difficulty.

All options will require exhaust work including 2 new cats which could be $750 or up to the usual $1000-$1200 if you get a whole new custom exhaust.

You will want to install an FJ62 gas tank or other tank meant for a fuel injected vehicle. There will be lots of incidentals like adding fuse blocks, fuel lines, shtuff like that.

I always had a goal of keeping my 60 not just all Toyota but also more to the original land cruiser in spirit so I was determined to stick with a Toyota straight 6. If I had it to do all over again, I would have done the 1FZ swap though, it is an engine that is like 20 years ahead of the 2F/3FE in technology and performance.

Frank
 
elripster said:
So, I did a 3FE swap on my 60 and probably have all of my hand notes around somewhere. Honestly, it's not that hard, but it will be time consuming and cost a lot more than it seems it should up front. You still have a very analog engine mating to an analog chassis so you just have to dig through the harness and get stuff hooked up. That said, many say the "2FE" is the engine Toyota should have built and love the performance of a 2FE. Do beware though, the 2F block is a 4 bolt main and are known to break crankshafts (as is the 3FE block).

I suggest reading through my write up. Most of the work aside from the mechanical will be the same...

forum.ih8mud.com

3FE Conversion Write-Up

80 Series 3FE Conversion Write-Up I'm in the middle of a 3FE conversion on my 85 FJ60 and figured I would add my part to the world of LC knowledge. I only have weekends to work on this so info will come about accordingly. Some background... I drove my truck from IL to CA and probably over...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Now, for the curve ball. Have you looked into a 1FZ? You will not be able to retain your H55f. unless they finally come out with an adapter (someone is working on that... Wits end?) or you cut a 1FZ and your existing bell housing in half and weld them together (folks have actually done this). You would either need use the A440 auto presumably with the AWD t-case it comes with, or adapt your part time t-case which has certainly been done, but you will end up with an engine that is waaaaaaaaaaaaay more powerful, uses waaaaaaaaaaaay less fuel, and has parts availability much better than the 2F or 3FE.

The electrical side will be about the same difficulty.

All options will require exhaust work including 2 new cats which could be $750 or up to the usual $1000-$1200 if you get a whole new custom exhaust.

You will want to install an FJ62 gas tank or other tank meant for a fuel injected vehicle. There will be lots of incidentals like adding fuse blocks, fuel lines, shtuff like that.

I always had a goal of keeping my 60 not just all Toyota but also more to the original land cruiser in spirit so I was determined to stick with a Toyota straight 6. If I had it to do all over again, I would have done the 1FZ swap though, it is an engine that is like 20 years ahead of the 2F/3FE in technology and performance.

Frank
Click to expand...

I would like to keep the H55. Or at least keep the split case. I was looking into the 2FE because it is just a head swap along with all the electrical tidbits. If i am going to do a full swap i would be on the fence about doing the 1FZ or the LQ4 (LS) swap. Because at that point both will take a decent ammount of modification, work, and adapters for transmission.
 
@elripster I think the 1FZ is an awesome motor and wouldnt mind having one in the 60 but the effort for the swap is almost as much as an LS swap and i know i would be kicking myself for not going for the extra HP.
 
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So the thing is, the 3FE is more than just a head swap, a lot more. In fact, the labor to install the head is on par with just installing a different complete engine. Now you will save time/dough on things like AC lines, PS lines, and the likes., but, you still need to do all of the wiring, exhaust work, fuel work, gas pedal, and install a new fuel tank. At that point you can source the other stuff and have a shop build you AC lines.

Remember, the 1FZ bolted up the same frame the 3FE did. the 3FE fits in an 80 and a 60 so the 1FZ will fit the same in both cases.

There are split case adapters.

Anyway, if you have your heart set on the 2FE, my write up should help with the wiring and other stuff.

Frank
 
elripster said:
So the thing is, the 3FE is more than just a head swap, a lot more. In fact, the labor to install the head is on par with just installing a different complete engine. Now you will save time/dough on things like AC lines, PS lines, and the likes., but, you still need to do all of the wiring, exhaust work, fuel work, gas pedal, and install a new fuel tank. At that point you can source the other stuff and have a shop build you AC lines.

Remember, the 1FZ bolted up the same frame the 3FE did. the 3FE fits in an 80 and a 60 so the 1FZ will fit the same in both cases.

There are split case adapters.

Anyway, if you have your heart set on the 2FE, my write up should help with the wiring and other stuff.

Frank
Click to expand...

Fortunately i dont have my heart set on anything. I am just trying to weigh the Pros and Cons of each option. And i found your post and write up on it 2 seconds after posting for opinions. :bang::bang:
 
It's all good. I went around and round before my 3FE swap it was certainly an upgrade over the 2F. It passed smog much more easily. But with experience as a teacher, and if I had the chance to do it again, I would go 1FZ, H151F manual, and never look back.

All swaps like this are jam packed with details and are always more money/work than you typically expect. I would focus heavily on the outcome you are after.

Some more light reading...

 
The engine change guidelines were updated and actually improved. It used to be that you could swap an engine but it had to come with its transmission. Now the existing transmission can remain or it can come with its transmission which means you can go auto or manual without issues with the smog ref.
 
elripster said:
The engine change guidelines were updated and actually improved. It used to be that you could swap an engine but it had to come with its transmission. Now the existing transmission can remain or it can come with its transmission which means you can go auto or manual without issues with the smog ref.
Click to expand...

I'm not too worried about SMOG due to having it registered in GA.
 
Well that opens things up quite a bit. Your easiest power boost would be to find an 2F header used and install a tbi set up from painless fuel injection or the likes. That leaves the bulk of the truck alone and is easily reversible if you ever need to go back to stock.

The stock carb is horrible for air flow and the stock exhaust isn't much better. Letting the engine breath will open up the torque post 2500 RPM where it falls on its face.

Frank
 
you know what I'm going to say... Diesel!
 
I looked at that but decided against it due to parts availability. I had already had issues when belt went on the 2F in the middle of nowhere and had to fish through the back on an auto parts store trying to mix/match because they had to order just about everything for the truck besides an oil filter.

I wasn't up for becoming my own auto parts store.

Frank
 
There is a 3rd option, which seems like a screaming deal! :cautious:

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For Sale - 1987 Toyota FJ60 Velvet Green -- Reposting (Wheels Changed)

Cruiser has undergone a two stage restoration since its acquisition in July 2017. Stage I – Land Cruiser Restorations All new old man emu soft ride leaf springs, with grease-able shackles, old man emu shocks, and steering stabilizer. LED headlights, custom LCR black powder coated...
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*spits lunch on his computer screen....
 
The only thing screaming is your credit score! That price is absolutely insane but still not as insane as the color choice!
 
So getting back to the original idea of upping power, that green 60 has a V8 swap. A vehicle at that price is appealing to collectors with cash. Average folks are likely not going to pull that much out of their home to buy a vehicle so expensive they likely will be afraid to use it. Collectors, however, usually want the original engine, etc... in pristine condition. '

Which leads me the idea that if you want to preserve the 60's character, I'd keep it all Toyota. Or in the case of converting to FI, at least the changes are reversible if you ever need to do that. I see V8 converter 60's on CL all the time and rarely are they pulling as much as a clean original example.

That said, the 2F has 4.2L of displacement in a long stroke engine (more torque) so there is something to work with there if you decide to keep the 2F. TBI, header, will really wake that engine up.

Frank
 
Seconding Frank... Original = retained value..

Many V8 swapped rigs run the risk of being money pits due to the wear and tear of PO thrashing the vehicle. With great power comes great responsibility...

The TBI swap is easier and retains a lot more of the original 2F parts... The 3FE head swap is 100% Toyota (one stop shopping) and you are already familiar with the wiring, manuals, and part resources...

Not my rig or money, but I like the idea of a headered 2FE! Plus you do have the easier route since the harder way is putting a 2F block into a 62...
 
Looks like if im going to do it then the 1FZ would be the best bang for buck. I love the 2f for its simplicity and reliability but you can only squeese so much power out of a tractor motor. I saw a post on someone who did a build on a 2F bored out with TBI and it made 120hp at the wheels. 😭
 
Ha! Yeah... And I have heard that you can find belhousings for HZ/HDT to h55s to work on a 1fz... Don't holdnme to it, but I thought I read that a while back...
 
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