Did some more digging to confirm my memory... Looks like there are subtle differences, but the FJco may be selling an FZ to h55 belhousing solution for $1k.
2F with 3FE head and CPU (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tylerh84
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120bhp! Whoa!!! Do you get AC w/ that too?Looks like if im going to do it then the 1FZ would be the best bang for buck. I love the 2f for its simplicity and reliability but you can only squeese so much power out of a tractor motor. I saw a post on someone who did a build on a 2F bored out with TBI and it made 120hp at the wheels.
- Thread starter
- #23
That bell housing is now a purchasable part. Oh how things have chanced since I first started tinkering with my 60. FJCO 1FZ-H55F Bell Housing
That said it is pricey. It is sufficiently pricey that it might be a wash between going that route and selling your H55 for about that much and buying a $2500 H151. That said, getting the 1FZE to bolt in status reduces the cost/complexity to a 3FE swap which is nice. I'd rank them something like this with cost generally following complexity.
1. Easiest / cheapest, non CA smog legal, reversible (within reason): TBI conversion.
2. A little harder, more expensive, can be CA smog legal, reversible but much harder retains all block connected parts): 2FE, needs new exhaust, fuel tank, accel pedal. Retains H55F. Excellent torque, MPG's improved, parts availability can be a challenge. Good for vehicle value.
3. Not-recommended: 3FE swap. Torque of 2FE is reported to be better as are MPG's. 3FE block is too short, non-optimal connecting rod angles. Good for vehicle value. Needs new gas tank, accel pedal, AC lines need to be fabricated, PS lines adapted... better alternator. Can be CA smog legal.
4. On par with 3, GM engine swap: Can be CA smog legal, not realistically reversible, excellent performance MPGs, strong parts availability. Major tear up but adapters are available, likely more expensive the 1-3. Doesn't usually help and can hurt vehicle value. Most work.
5. 1FZE with H151 or with adapter and H55F: Same difficulty as 3, best for vehicle value, performance on par with or slightly less then 4, good parts availability, costs will be higher than 1-3, could cost more or less than 4 depending on where you source engine... etc...
6. Diesel conversion: anything other than a Toyota diesel is usually bad for value, the trucks become very rough/loud (little sound insulation in a 60). Toyota diesels have most severe parts availability issues. Very expensive. Best MPG's. You really want to think hard about going this route, many, many impacts to the vehicle and how you maintain/service it.
Frank
That said it is pricey. It is sufficiently pricey that it might be a wash between going that route and selling your H55 for about that much and buying a $2500 H151. That said, getting the 1FZE to bolt in status reduces the cost/complexity to a 3FE swap which is nice. I'd rank them something like this with cost generally following complexity.
1. Easiest / cheapest, non CA smog legal, reversible (within reason): TBI conversion.
2. A little harder, more expensive, can be CA smog legal, reversible but much harder retains all block connected parts): 2FE, needs new exhaust, fuel tank, accel pedal. Retains H55F. Excellent torque, MPG's improved, parts availability can be a challenge. Good for vehicle value.
3. Not-recommended: 3FE swap. Torque of 2FE is reported to be better as are MPG's. 3FE block is too short, non-optimal connecting rod angles. Good for vehicle value. Needs new gas tank, accel pedal, AC lines need to be fabricated, PS lines adapted... better alternator. Can be CA smog legal.
4. On par with 3, GM engine swap: Can be CA smog legal, not realistically reversible, excellent performance MPGs, strong parts availability. Major tear up but adapters are available, likely more expensive the 1-3. Doesn't usually help and can hurt vehicle value. Most work.
5. 1FZE with H151 or with adapter and H55F: Same difficulty as 3, best for vehicle value, performance on par with or slightly less then 4, good parts availability, costs will be higher than 1-3, could cost more or less than 4 depending on where you source engine... etc...
6. Diesel conversion: anything other than a Toyota diesel is usually bad for value, the trucks become very rough/loud (little sound insulation in a 60). Toyota diesels have most severe parts availability issues. Very expensive. Best MPG's. You really want to think hard about going this route, many, many impacts to the vehicle and how you maintain/service it.
Frank
- Thread starter
- #25
Well im not worried about value honestly. It isnt something that i'll get rid of. I horde cars when I can. I still have 2 volvos and a supra at home in GA waiting until i get back so i can do something with them. (turbo LS volvo and 2j swaped supra) So it really all comes down to what i am going to use it for which i really need to settle down on. I would love to turn it into a great overlander that can eat the miles away and the LS would be the ideal item for it. I would love to keep it toyota so the million mile 2UZ would be my dream swap.
Looks like if im going to do it then the 1FZ would be the best bang for buck. I love the 2f for its simplicity and reliability but you can only squeese so much power out of a tractor motor. I saw a post on someone who did a build on a 2F bored out with TBI and it made 120hp at the wheels.
Hmmm, typically you can take 5% loss in the diff and 2-4% in the transmission with some fixed load at the wheels. Even at 15% total losses which is typical for a manual shift powertrain, that is only 138HP at the crank. I am not sure if the 2F and 3FE were rated with crank HP or engine-only HP but a 1FZE will definitely put a lot more to the wheels than that.
Frank
So it sounds like you want to make sure you have access to spare parts so the LS, 2UZ, are probably the best long term options. Even the 1FZE will eventually start to suffer the parts issues that older engines can suffer.
That said, the 2UZ is only 40HP more than a stock 2FZ and with a cold air (snorkel) and exhaust you are likely getting a few more HP than stock out of the 1FZ so the difference in performance is likely not a lot by the seat of the pants. A Chevy 5.3 will blow both of them away away and get better MPG to boot. Both will easily produce more speed than the 60's brakes were ever meant to handle.
Reading on the 2UZ, it doesn't look like there is a lot of information out there as to how to swap it though it has been done. Have you priced adapters and the likes?
Frank
That said, the 2UZ is only 40HP more than a stock 2FZ and with a cold air (snorkel) and exhaust you are likely getting a few more HP than stock out of the 1FZ so the difference in performance is likely not a lot by the seat of the pants. A Chevy 5.3 will blow both of them away away and get better MPG to boot. Both will easily produce more speed than the 60's brakes were ever meant to handle.
Reading on the 2UZ, it doesn't look like there is a lot of information out there as to how to swap it though it has been done. Have you priced adapters and the likes?
Frank
- Thread starter
- #28
Thats what i am doing now. The adapter for the 1FZ to H55F would be near 2k for the bellhousing and the associated parts. Thas if i wanted to kee the 5 speed. If i did go auto then it would save me some $ but i havent found anything on an adapter for the 80 trans to a split case.
You might check out the 80 section, folks have converted to split cases before.
Or you could just have an AWD/4WD/4Lo 60. You might need to have new drive shafts made with either or both options, not sure there.
Frank
Or you could just have an AWD/4WD/4Lo 60. You might need to have new drive shafts made with either or both options, not sure there.
Frank
Just get a 100 or 200 problem solved 
Lacks the panache of a 60. A panache transplant has yet to be performed.
Tyler, while likely not the HP gain you are looking for, I have in my possession a header and Weber carb for the 2F. The header looks a lot like this one....
Neither are Ca smog legal so if you are interested let me know. Otherwise I will probably put them on Mud or something.
Frank
Neither are Ca smog legal so if you are interested let me know. Otherwise I will probably put them on Mud or something.
Frank
- Thread starter
- #33
That header has my interest. I'll txt ya
Coo
