2F head weight

Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Messages
69
Location
55317
Hey Mud,

A few signs are pointing to a blown head gasket. Planning on removing the head and taking to a shop for repair. My main question for now is how much does the head weigh and would two able bodied men be able to lift it off the block? Or should I invest in an electric hoist? Thanks.

Compression test (dry)
1 130
2 85
3 100
4 120
5 125
6 135
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
23,534
Location
EAST COAST
Website
vintageteqparts.com
Hey Mud,

A few signs are pointing to a blown head gasket. Planning on removing the head and taking to a shop for repair. My main question for now is how much does the head weigh and would two able bodied men be able to lift it off the block? Or should I invest in an electric hoist? Thanks.

Compression test (dry)
1 130
2 85
3 100
4 120
5 125
6 135


i would say for certain , it's a 2 Teq tech / man / Female-owner operator job ........

or

exactly 420 of these in TROY weight ..............



1651346768498.png
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
23,534
Location
EAST COAST
Website
vintageteqparts.com

Steamer

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
1,926
Location
Miami, FL
I did mine alone with a pipe stand on each side of the vehicle and a pipe from stand to stand. The lifting hooks were not present on my head, so I used a piece of channel strut secured using the row of rocker pedestal studs (rocker assembly removed) and one eye bolt in the center of the strut. Used chain from eye bolt to the pipe. I put tension on the head by screwing up on the stands. Once it broke loose, I went side to side lifting the pipe and raising the jack stands in bigger increments using the telescoping part of the stands. Raising one side at a time is only half the weight so you can do it with on hand while raising the stand with the other. When it was clear of the radiator, I rolled back the 40 and backed in my pickup. With two people you won’t need pipe stands. With one guy on each end of the pipe, or 2x4, just lift and walk forward.
 

middlecalf

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
4,733
Location
Sweet, Idaho
I'd say coolant for sure. Not sure oil is necessary as it drains down into oil pan.

What's a good way to lasso the head if using a lift (early head, doesn't have hooks)?
 

mrboatman

GOLD Star
Joined
Oct 21, 2016
Messages
1,545
Location
Southern Nevada
I'd say coolant for sure. Not sure oil is necessary as it drains down into oil pan.

What's a good way to lasso the head if using a lift (early head, doesn't have hooks)?
Use rope or chain with a manifold bolt on rear and a lift hook bolt on the front
 

izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Messages
6,429
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
I just did the head gasket, removing the the head was simple enough. After all the pieces are removed, it was easy enough to lift up ine side at a time, put a 2x4 under each, then pick up and slide it off. I would guess it’s 60 lbs, not super heavy but an awkward reach.

1651712304094.jpeg


Putting it back in was something else, don’t want to damage the gasket so a borrowed engine cherry picker came in handy and made it easy. Just go slow and place over gasket.

7594AF3D-AD6B-4763-A74F-41A091FB836C.jpeg
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Messages
69
Location
55317
I just did the head gasket, removing the the head was simple enough. After all the pieces are removed, it was easy enough to lift up ine side at a time, put a 2x4 under each, then pick up and slide it off. I would guess it’s 60 lbs, not super heavy but an awkward reach.

View attachment 3000686

Putting it back in was something else, don’t want to damage the gasket so a borrowed engine cherry picker came in handy and made it easy. Just go slow and place over gasket.

View attachment 3000687
Thanks for that info! Where did you get your replacement gasket?
 

izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Messages
6,429
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
Best place to get the whole kit, Cruiser Outfitters. If you dine know which one you need, call or email them, they are quick and knowledgeable about best fit

 

middlecalf

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
4,733
Location
Sweet, Idaho
Good stuff @izzyandsue , thanks! I was wondering about that replacement gasket, how does it seal between Cyls 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 with that gap?
 

fjc-man

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Messages
1,536
Location
Commerce City, Colorado
There’s so much limited access stuff on the left side of the engine, that taking the left apron and fender off makes a lot easier instead of contorting yourself hanging over that fender.
 

izzyandsue

Izzy
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 31, 2014
Messages
6,429
Location
Charlotte, NC
Website
www.tactegra.com
Good stuff @izzyandsue , thanks! I was wondering about that replacement gasket, how does it seal between Cyls 1&2, 3&4, 5&6 with that gap?
The seal was fine, but mine is a 1978 head and that gasket is for 75 and newer, Cruise Outfitters (CO) also has the earlier gasket for your 70. When you remove yours, take good pics of where everything goes and the head gasket, then send that pic to the CO guys and they will get the replacement. I also took the head to an engine shop to have it machined, cleaned, rebuilt. New valve seals and the springs were worn too so they fix those. The CO kit comes with new seals.

In my case, my head is from a non-US truck, so it is a 78 head with the older head gasket, pic below, so it was a toss up between which one to run so I got both, cheap enough. I tired the newer one first, then the older one. What is also unique to mine is the coolant hose routing, non stock, as it doesn’t have a bypass, created additional headaches that I didnt want to deal with then.

0F2978AF-8C5C-4741-A7DF-5E164F0BE23B.jpeg


The first removal took me a day, first time I did it so was overly cautious, had FSM and tried to follow ever and took a lot of pics. When I decided to install the older style gasket and remove the head, took me maybe two hours. The point is once you know where everything goes it’s pretty easy. A good torque wrench is a big help for the head bolts.

Probably have 200 miles on the new head, highway driving and around town, engines stays around 185, no leaks.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2017
Messages
69
Location
55317
The seal was fine, but mine is a 1978 head and that gasket is for 75 and newer, Cruise Outfitters (CO) also has the earlier gasket for your 70. When you remove yours, take good pics of where everything goes and the head gasket, then send that pic to the CO guys and they will get the replacement. I also took the head to an engine shop to have it machined, cleaned, rebuilt. New valve seals and the springs were worn too so they fix those. The CO kit comes with new seals.

In my case, my head is from a non-US truck, so it is a 78 head with the older head gasket, pic below, so it was a toss up between which one to run so I got both, cheap enough. I tired the newer one first, then the older one. What is also unique to mine is the coolant hose routing, non stock, as it doesn’t have a bypass, created additional headaches that I didnt want to deal with then.

View attachment 3000862

The first removal took me a day, first time I did it so was overly cautious, had FSM and tried to follow ever and took a lot of pics. When I decided to install the older style gasket and remove the head, took me maybe two hours. The point is once you know where everything goes it’s pretty easy. A good torque wrench is a big help for the head bolts.

Probably have 200 miles on the new head, highway driving and around town, engines stays around 185, no leaks.
Great info! Thanks @izzyandsue! Easy to see where the problem is with your old gasket. Based on my compression readings I think mine failed in the same area.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom