2F Carb return line fitting thread size and pitch.

[Helimancan]

Wasn't clear on just where you want to plug or cap off at. Are you removing the banjo fitting and replacing the bolt that holds it on?
Or are you looking to cap off the end of the banjo fitting.
A or B ?

View attachment 2072277

Um, the year, month and market are identified in the top left corner of most of the pics.

7602 = Feb 1976
CND = Canada
USA = well, I suppose you get it.

All of these fiche captures are from a North American parts list.

All of the parts are NLA.

@Helimancan

In any event, the nut and ferrule (olive in Toyota lingo) are still available from a dealer:

Nut Union - Toyota (90402-13041) $6.21 list
Olive - Toyota (96395-71400) $4.22 list

Maybe you could use a short length of 8 mm rod (cut off piece of bolt?) with a new nut and olive to seal the return port?

Well after all of the information that has just been passed on here I have finally figured out what the hell is wrong with my carburetor setup and have solved the need to cap off the "return fitting".

I always figured there should be a restriction in the return line fitting. (that would be the banjo bolt)

My Toy has had the fuel feed connected to the banjo fitting. The return has been connected to the union style fitting which faces forward.

That banjo bolt would give me the restriction I need in the fuel return line that i have been creating by pinching off my fuel return hose. By pinching off my fuel return hose even with the banjo bolt as my feed it ran well and my float bowl level was steady although now I will flip things around and see what happens. I may not need to cap my return fitting after all !

12mm x 1.25,

Thanks guys

 

[Helimancan]

I will dig into things a bit further and see if my carburetor has always been connected wrong or WTF is up here !

Cheers

 

[Steamer]

If you're going to cap off the return, on the banjo fitting, I doubt you'll find a cap but will have to make one. I think "73FJ40" had the best idea using an oem flare nut, olive and a piece of 8mm rod cut from a bolt. No soldering or brazing needed.

If you decide to go back to a return system and run new lines, remember that the oem 8mm tubing is so close to 5/16 od tube that many suppliers call it the same. When I re-plumbed my stock carb with supply and return lines I used 5/16 od tubing and 5/16 compression ferrules (or olives as they are often called) and it worked just fine with the stock carb and fuel pump fittings. I had to use the stock oem nuts as I don't know of anything else that fits. Just keep in mind that the stock nuts work with 8mm tube and olives, "and" they also work with 5/16 od tube and ferrules.

 

[65swb45]

Two threads on the same ??

 

[Ackcruisers]

I don’t think the fuel return threads Inside the air horn is M12x1.25…there is a unique taper to it.

As shown by @73FJ40, on 1979-7/80 carbs the return was plugged by 21814-61022 as shown in the schematic. This was because Toyota eliminated the return at the carb in favor of the return built into the fuel pump. (which is the setup on my 1976).

My thread identification tool cannot match the threads on the return. Anyone have a 1979 carb they can take a photo of this bolt and measure?

 

[Ackcruisers]

For anyone coming to this post in the future, I’m going to answer my own question and the OP’s.

Confirmed. The fuel return line on 1979-7/80 carburetors uses an m12x1.25 hex head plug.

The fuel return line on a 1976 carburetor requires the banjo bolt with hex head bolt. To delete this, the plug needs to be M11x1.50x12 hex head. I’m going to have some made in yellow zinc so those running with the upgraded 1979+ style fuel pumps with return at the pump can just delete this banjo bolt fitting with a plug. M11 bolts are like unicorns…

 

[77mustard40]

@Ackcruisers Good to know, I’ve got a 76 carb on my 77 and it’s got this fuel return line and fittings. It’s been a great carb in the nearly 10 years that I’ve been running it. I’ve also got a non-US 78 carb in a box that doesn’t have the return port, it’s plugged. I’ve toyed with having the plug removed and tapped for a return line but never knew the size or pitch.

 

[Ackcruisers]

I wonder if they made a fuel return bolt and banjo bolt with the orifice in it and M12 x 1.25?

 

[Ackcruisers]

@Ackcruisers Good to know, I’ve got a 76 carb on my 77 and it’s got this fuel return line and fittings. It’s been a great carb in the nearly 10 years that I’ve been running it. I’ve also got a non-US 78 carb in a box that doesn’t have the return port, it’s plugged. I’ve toyed with having the plug removed and tapped for a return line but never knew the size or pitch.

As an alternative, you can upgrade your fuel pump to the later model that has the return line built into the pump. This will eliminate the need for return at the carb allowing you to run the Non USA carb as is.

 

[77mustard40]

As an alternative, you can upgrade your fuel pump to the later model that has the return line built into the pump. This will eliminate the need for return at the carb allowing you to run the Non USA carb as is.

Good call, I don’t know that I’ve ever replaced the fuel pump in the decades of ownership. New pump and I can stop worrying about the diaphragm failing in middle of BFE.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Ok, to make the M11x1.50x12 hex head plug in yellow zinc to delete the need for the return line on all Asian OEM carbs (with return line) is $300. I only need one so would be interested in hearing from the vendor community and carb experts to see if this should be produced...

Applicability:

• The 1979+ FJ40's eliminated the return line at the carb.
• The return was relocated to the fuel pump (pump 23100-61050)
• Those replacing their fuel pump will have a choice...Go to the new and improved (in my view) 23100-61050 and eliminate the second fuel hardline to the carb by plugging the return at the carb, or buy the same old pump.

 

[cruisermatt]

Funny you bring this up, I actually have the banjo and bolt at my machinist’s right now as I am seeing about reproducing them.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks to @mattressking he found a kit that is m11x1.50 that will work. I’ve ordered the kit and will report back on fitment.

 

[Ackcruisers]

@cruisermatt I received the bolts and unfortunately, they are flanged hex bolts and will not work due to the carb casing. The ones without the flanged head will work. I’m returning these and will see if they can send the non flanged version as shown in second image.

 

[Beehanger]

Funny you bring this up, I actually have the banjo and bolt at my machinist’s right now as I am seeing about reproducing them.

Hey matt, did you ever get these fabbed up?? looking for one...

Dan

 

[Beehanger]

Thanks to @mattressking he found a kit that is m11x1.50 that will work. I’ve ordered the kit and will report back on fitment.

View attachment 3542292

@mattressking
Did this kit end up working?

Have a fj40 carb with a return line going on a 60. So... needing to delete it.

Dan

 

[Beehanger]

@cruisermatt

did you ever find this bolt?

 

[Ackcruisers]

@Beehanger I installed the bolt in the kit shown in this thread.

I filed down the flange.

To make these bolts was expensive. A vendor with a storefront should have these made. Here are the drawings.

 

[Beehanger]

@Beehanger I installed the bolt in the kit shown in this thread.

I filed down the flange.
View attachment 3660540
View attachment 3660541

To make these bolts was expensive. A vendor with a storefront should have these made. Here are the drawings.

View attachment 3660543

Hey man,
Thanks you. What do you mean by vendor with a storefront?

 

[Ackcruisers]

Hey man,
Thanks you. What do you mean by vendor with a storefront?

I have a bolt from my kit that I can send you. PM me.

To clarify vendor storefront….

An online store like VintageTEQParts.com, City Racer etc… they can get the bolts made and list the product as one of their SKU’s.