$.25 freeze plug + "while you're in there" = my complete engine rebuild

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So went by the shop to pick up my injectors to mail out for cleaning.

One thing that scared me was that Beno said a new oil sending unit would be $500. The trouble is that the wire attachment thingy rusted off. Yes, I just wrote that. Remember I am a total noob.

Take a look at the pictures attached to this post for some insight. View attachment 878665 View attachment 878666

It looks like the ground wire male spade connector for the sensor has rusted out. You can probably ground this wire anywhre on the chassis or come up with a temp measure until you pick up an used unit. It ought to be replaced anyway based on the condition!
 
Wait.. there's a freeze plug in the back of the head. Son of a %$^&^ ! Beno, why didn't you tell me this when I ordered that seal kit from you last week ?

I think you got hosed pretty good on that head. Our local NAPA machine shop will clean a head for $30 and cut it down a few thousandths for another $50. Not sure what it costs to have them do the valves but I bet its way cheaper than that outfit you went to. Surely you have a NAPA nearby.

NAPAs have machine shops?

They don't seem to in Utah.

I know one in Phoenix used to, but it changed hands and the new owner sold off the equipment.
 
NAPA's here have a machine shop in house.

It's not shaving the head that's expensive it's the valve work.
Setting the valves correctly involves having all the correct shims on hand to set the lash.
Most places will not have a shim kit on hand. So it's a lot of measuring and going to the dealer for the shims you need.
It's tedious and takes more than a few minutes to do.
Some will grind off the stem tips to get the lash. Personally I prefer to just get the correct shim.
I don't know what Toyota shims cost, but they probably don't give them away, another cost most places don't consider at first.
 
Spoke to my new machine shop. All in spec but the cylinder bore is 3 thousandths out. So an email to Mr. Beno for some quotes.

At $76.55 per piston for OEM 1mm over bore, what say you? I want to keep it OEM but others are tempting me with rockauto.com's two choices of ITM or DNJ pistons. The machine shop is saying Mahle because he runs them in his sprint car.

Then there are rings to consider. The mechanic wanted Hastings chrome so I have a set of those.

Any input would be nice.
 
Have you considered a new Toyota 1FZFE short block?
 
Have you considered a new Toyota 1FZFE short block?

Yes, that was offered by my parts expert Beno. Although tempting everything measured out right but the bore. So pistons and rings still makes it a 300k mile engine on this rebuild.
 
IIRC NLXTACY built his engine out to 4.6L. Search for his thread.
 
I would imagine that all the parts places that sell 1FZ short/long blocks are using them. Seems that they are in 22Rs. Looks like the challenge is to properly plateau hone for the chrome rings to seat correctly. That's what I would do a bit more research on. I have never found whether factory rings are chrome/moly/other coating. My bet is chrome and perfect hone from factory.
 
Wow. This was a long hiatus. This was an unplanned rebuild the money came around slowly.

I found a great new machine shop that measured and spec'ed out the entire lower block. Cylinders were past specifications so we bored it out 1mm and made Betty a 4.6 liter.

Here are two upside down pictures of the block machined and painted with John Deere paint. Talk about a heavy and hard paint.

Work stopped for the night as we realized the importance of ensuring that u have all your parts ordered. Thrust washers. . . dern it.

Shipment will arrive in the morning and the build will continue.
 
Current pictures

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Toyota, Toyota, Toyota. It is an OEM rebuild with exception of the Hastings Piston Rings, hose clamps, PHH and Firewall Heater Hoses.

Oh and these dern Thrust Washers. Needed them quick so the are Rock Auto Clevites.
 
On the piston? I didn't spend much time at the shop on the part drop. Son's birthday celebration way more important.
 

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