Finally, i was ridiculed for quite a while saying I got 27mpg!
22R Sounds like a Diesel...
- Thread starter lowtideride
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Finally, i was ridiculed for quite a while saying I got 27mpg!
- Thread starter
- #22
I din't think I would have gotten that much...but I did.
Its all in how you drive and where you drive.
Right at sea level (6ft) on a road with no hills and no stops until you get to the next town (hand full of red lights). With a speed around 55mph...
Hell my Fj60 with 37" tires got 17mpg on days with light wind on the drive.
Next week Ill grab some pictures from the drive...Truly some awesome views
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Nice Truck! Now go put your seat belt on!
- Thread starter
- #24
Ya caught me.
I am normally the seat belt nazi, I got into a crash when I was young and would not get in a vehicle for a month with out throwing a fit. I don't remember any of this as I was too young to. But, I have never felt "right" in a vehicle with out my seatbelt on.
Although it looks like an action shot I was only moving the truck 5 feet, If I would have rolled there I would have been one talented individual
10MPG better than a Cruiser ,whether it be city or highway, sounds about right. And the engine is pretty much indestructable.
You know that the newer ('85 on) Toy 5 speeds are stronger, right?
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- #26
10MPG better than a Cruiser ,whether it be city or highway, sounds about right. And the engine is pretty much indestructable.
Looking for one now.
There is no way I am putting another used POS L52 back in it.
- Thread starter
- #27
Alright, ran into some trouble of having my Alternator give up the ghost. Been running around on just battery power for a couple of days on an 7 year old Optima battery. I thought it was over due for a new one so I invested in a new Optima and Alternator. Kinda bummed though, last Optima was made in Colorado, USA and the new one is made in Mexico....But that's a thread for a different time.
Back to the noise... While I was in there replacing the alternator I adjusted the vales again to FSM spec but to .007 and .011 (hot).
No change in noise. Like I said before when the engine is cold the motor does not make much noise but after about 3 minutes of running the noise starts up.
I really got my ear down there and it sounds like it is coming from the front of the motor.
Any ideas would be cool, thanks again...
Back to the noise... While I was in there replacing the alternator I adjusted the vales again to FSM spec but to .007 and .011 (hot).
No change in noise. Like I said before when the engine is cold the motor does not make much noise but after about 3 minutes of running the noise starts up.
I really got my ear down there and it sounds like it is coming from the front of the motor.
Any ideas would be cool, thanks again...
Howdy! Try a long rod/screwdriver or cheap stethescope to pin point the sound. I would think you will find it on the timing chain cover area. Not too hard to miss the fan and belts. I looked mine over when I went thru the oil pump, and it didn't look too bad. Spose I shoulda done the chain and tensioner/guides then, but I didn't. John
I not really sure this will solve your problem but, my truck has sounded like a 'diesel' for a long time, since i got it in febuary. Ive tried different oils, ive done timing, checked valve clearances, etc.
My ignition coil gave up the ghost, allwoing my engine to have an extremely LOW spark on all cylinders. I, in fear of time, replaced with an accel superstock. She is one HOTT mother. Now i have no tick, and more power than ive felt out of her in a long time.
I believe the tick was a constant spark knock. Can this be true?
P.S. Its running ACCEL Coil, BWD Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, and OEM Cap, Rotor, etc.
My ignition coil gave up the ghost, allwoing my engine to have an extremely LOW spark on all cylinders. I, in fear of time, replaced with an accel superstock. She is one HOTT mother. Now i have no tick, and more power than ive felt out of her in a long time.
I believe the tick was a constant spark knock. Can this be true?
P.S. Its running ACCEL Coil, BWD Wires, Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, and OEM Cap, Rotor, etc.
- Thread starter
- #30
Hmmm maybe...
I am running new OEM cap and rotor and new NGK spark plugs and wires...
I still have yet to check the timing but hopefully this week I can find the time.
You say you don't know when the T/C was changed, or if it has been? Take the valve cover off and look straight down. There is a dimple in the timing cover on the inside. There is a bolt that goes into the timing cover under the timing marks that should not be hitting the tensioner. You'll see the dimple on the inside of the cover and will be able to see if the bolt is hitting the tensioner.
I had the same symptoms you describe and found the PO had put too long a bolt in thus capturing the tensioner.
Change the timing chain to the engnbldr rubber on steel set. It is well worth it. Kit is about $75.00 shipped to you.
I had the same symptoms you describe and found the PO had put too long a bolt in thus capturing the tensioner.
Change the timing chain to the engnbldr rubber on steel set. It is well worth it. Kit is about $75.00 shipped to you.