2021 Shock Therapy

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Ok here goes folks. This is the pre-build post as I start to gather supplies.

I'm finally getting into the “fun part” of therapy. I think after my 2020 Knuckle Therapy - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2020-knuckle-therapy.1236413/
work, I might be addicted to this.
Currently on factory springs and NYK(?) shocks in the rear. Toyo open county HT 275/70's. AS IS, I love the ride.

Granted, still chasing some leaks and I think I've got a swocky idler pulley now...

However, when I am loading out, I'm seeing a noticeable rear squat and sag + scraping the rear over some terrain.

I load out the usual camping gear, 3-6 gallon of reserve fuel, about the same in water, 50L cooler, 2 kids (and occasionally my wife). No aftermarket rear bumper in the plan. Maybe 100-150lbs on the roof. Arb non winch bull bar, and adding sliders in a month or so (more on that below).

Living in Cali we def do a lot of dusty dirt roads (just did 190 miles through death valley with miles and miles of washboard.) I wheel easy to med trails....no plans to crawl or do the Rubicon etc).

Via Exit Offroad are the Dobinsons Suspension Experts in the USA - https://exitoffroad.com/
SHOCKS - 1.75" IMS kit + new steering dampener (not the $400 one lol)
220v front spring
223V rear springs

Going to use the Dobies 2.5 degree castor bushes.
Frame side bushes with: 4870260050
Lateral arm bushes: 4870660030
Not planning to install the sway drop brackets for this lift.

Marlin Steering Upgrade Kit

@NXTCLY rear tire leveler

Sneakers: 295/75 Toyo Open Country AT3 (x5)

Sliders:
I’m torn between: (both have a long lead time and just gonna ponder on it)
I need the steps for the :princess: and :zilla::zilla:
WKOR 10 degree
BIOR Step sliders

Other stuff:
I’m going to see if I can fashion a cargo barrier out of this, prob will do some sewing.
Amazon product
Winter $#@% Sunroof delete with this:
Amazon product
I’ve already pulled the tow receiver since one of the captive nuts broke free in the rail. At some point. I’m going to add something like this:
https://www.etrailer.com/Pintle-Hitch/Buyers-Products/33710050.html
 
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I figure some of this is about 3-4 weeks out.
In advance, I'm gonna soak me nuts in some liquid wrench.

One question I have:
I'm probably going to bring my control arms and lateral arm to Valley Hybrids to have them push in the the new bushes.
1) can you take all these out at once and not have to wrestle them back in?
2) is there a good way to keep the axle from rotating if both LCAs are out? Straps somehow?

Any other gotchas? I know the bolts are staked on one side of LCAa...will look out for those.

also order of things (abbreviated steps)-
Does this order sound right?
1) Jack Stands on Frame rails in rear.
2) remove shocks and spring / re-install
3) Tighten shock bolts upper mount, and lower bolt
4) tires back on, lower.
5) Loosen top shock bolts, jack up
6) Jack Stands to front (loosen ABS line and others as needed)
7)Remove old shocks and springs
8) Install new + torque
8.5) Beer break....seems like a Kolsh kinda moment
9) install Marin Steering kit
10) PULL LCA and Lateral Bar (Get bushings pressed)
10.5) remove steering dampener??? (not sure where step lives)
11) Reinstall LCA and Lateral (don't tighten until on the ground)
12) Lower to rig to the ground
13) torque up LCA and Lat bar
14) Install Steering Dampener
15) WHEEL!!

What am I missing?
 

leonard_nemoy

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Have you thought about other options besides bushings for caster correction? Eimkeith has some radius arm drop brackets (ram) that look like the bee's knees. I am waiting for a set to throw on my rig.
 
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Have you thought about other options besides bushings for caster correction? Eimkeith has some radius arm drop brackets (ram) that look like the bee's knees. I am waiting for a set to throw on my rig.
They do look nice. I sent him a note and he never got back to me...Thought they might be vaporware. Did you order a set? How long ago?
Ordered my frame side bushes from partsouq late last night and in classic fashion they are already in a box (that store is amazingly efficient). Should be easy to resell here if I change my mind. 🤪
 
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I guess the better question is: does this fit with what am I trying to accomplish? My base idea was to KISS this build, but use best parts where I could. I'm going into this assuming that I have to replace my bushes as they prob have 219K miles on them.

The RAM80 allows you to reuse OEM rubber, which seems like and advantage. The Dobi bushing kit seems well regarded by the team Aussie. Eitherway I need to do some bushing pushing.... Is there another reason to use the RAM80 drop? Price in this case is almost 1:1 wash when I add 4 more bushes), BUT Timeline seems like a bigger variable with EIAMKIETH, and then still need to weld these in place (another tool I don't have :hmm:)

I looked at the MAF drop, and plates but wasn't convinced I wanted either.
 
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leonard_nemoy

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They do look nice. I sent him a note and he never got back to me...Thought they might be vaporware. Did you order a set? How long ago?
Ordered my frame side bushes from partsouq late last night and in classic fashion they are already in a box (that store is amazingly efficient). Should be easy to resell here if I change my mind. 🤪

I ordered a set a couple weeks ago. He has been in contact and will be shipping sometime time this week.

Remember bushings will need to be replaced periodically, especially aftermarket.

I also like the idea of KISS. That's why these RAM mounts appeal to be. The oem bushings are the best. His mounts let you keep everything oem. Personally I have had issues with rubbing on a 2" lift with 315's up front and these ram mounts also push the axle forward enough to help with potential rubbing issues.

Another issue that can come from other methods of caster correction is interference between the steering linkage and radius arm. Especially if you have a heavy duty steering set up. The ram mounts also avoid this issue.
 
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I ordered a set a couple weeks ago. He has been in contact and will be shipping sometime time this week.

Remember bushings will need to be replaced periodically, especially aftermarket.

I also like the idea of KISS. That's why these RAM mounts appeal to be. The oem bushings are the best. His mounts let you keep everything oem. Personally I have had issues with rubbing on a 2" lift with 315's up front and these ram mounts also push the axle forward enough to help with potential rubbing issues.

Another issue that can come from other methods of caster correction is interference between the steering linkage and radius arm. Especially if you have a heavy duty steering set up. The ram mounts also avoid this issue.
Amazing. Can you DM me his ph# if you have it?
 
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Speak of the devil, I just got an email showing these RAM mounts shipped with tracking. Hopefully I can get them installed and welded up this weekend.
I got hold of him via email....just working on a local welder quote...OEM bushes are in the cart at partsouq, they already shipped other order...oh well.

So I can get the lift done, leave the LCA be, then drive it to have new bushes pressed and bracket welded on...correct? The castor issue will not be a huge issue for temporary travels (even at highway speed if I have to drive it to 45 miles or so)

Exitoffroad is holding my order till I figure this out (so I don't have to return the Dobi bushes)
BTW their container shipment arrived today.
 

leonard_nemoy

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So I can get the lift done, leave the LCA be, then drive it to have new bushes pressed and bracket welded on...correct?
Correct. you could even have someone install the new OEM bushings and continue to drive it until you get the RAM mounts welded up. I don't think it is critical to install the bushings and get the RAM mounts installed at the same time. Also if they don't get destroyed you might save the old bushings to use for spacers and fitting when the RAM mounts get welded.

Just my opinion based on my experiences, but it seems to me like a lot of good mechanics are not good welders. I personally would try to find a fabricator to weld the mounts, if you have a mechanic weld it make sure he uses a 210 welder and knows what he is doing. Avoid any garbage 110 welds.

Goodluck
 
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Hmmm....non of the local shops seem willing to weld that mount on. (they don't want to work on customer supplied parts). The plot thickens!

Any fabricator recommendations in the Bay Area? Anyone with a welder?

Edit: Found a frame and axle shop that seems like they'll do it.
 
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Depending on how much it costs to purchase/weld on the drop brackets you could always spend that cash toward the delta radius arms or go with the MAF drop bracket (bolt on).

Or you could buy a welder and make it happen.... I haven't done that yet but learning to weld is one of my goals.
 
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@ZackR I LOVE WELDING.
My old job had a really nice tig about the size of a phone booth (which I never learned to use) and a miller 440v mig - I actually had that thing dialing in and good really good at it, even overhead welds (and boy do I miss that machine now that I own an 80) About 10 years ago I bought a little flux core machine and sold it because I hated it compared to the Miller. It super satifying to hear a nice bead laying down. I'd actually hire a guy to come in and use the tig if we needed it, the dude was usually so full of alcohol fumes that I thought he'd spontaneously combust, but for his job interview with us, he cut a coke can in half then welded it back together. Was welder at a shipyard, and nuclear power plant, but could hold a steady job. Mind blowing what a high function drunk can do, but he was about as reliable as a football bat at hockey game.
 
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Woof...just got the second quote back to weld in the RAM80 - $900 which included pushing in the bushings too.
I think the welding quotes are too high, so unless I find someone with a 220v welder, I need to reroute my plans.

A) I'm at the DVS radius arms cost, but I'm over budget as is and my "CFO" is looking at me cross eyed. I still have "budget" for sliders, so I could delete those from this build phase too and hope I stay lucky.

B) 2" MAF bracket is still an option and looks to be in stock now.

C) I have both sets (dobi 2.5 and OEM) of bushings ordered.

I'm leaning towards the caster bushings at this point, driving it, and if I hate it, save some more pennies for the DVS arms.
 
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Woof...just got the second quote back to weld in the RAM80 - $900 which included pushing in the bushings too.
I think the welding quotes are too high, so unless I find someone with a 220v welder, I need to reroute my plans.

A) I'm at the DVS radius arms cost, but I'm over budget as is and my "CFO" is looking at me cross eyed. I still have "budget" for sliders, so I could delete those from this build phase too and hope I stay lucky.

B) 2" MAF bracket is still an option and looks to be in stock now.

C) I have both sets (dobi 2.5 and OEM) of bushings ordered.

I'm leaning towards the caster bushings at this point, driving it, and if I hate it, save some more pennies for the DVS arms.
You can pick up a stick welder for next to nothing these days. Get one of those and do it yourself. Watch Craigslist for farmers getting rid of stuff. Or people stealing stuff and selling it on CL.
 
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Perhaps go with the 2" MAF bracket and save up for the delta arms (with new bushings pressed in). Then you won't be spending money on bushings twice.

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leonard_nemoy

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Woof...just got the second quote back to weld in the RAM80 - $900


Damm, everything really must be more $$$$$ in California.

Have you tried posting up in a local club ih8mud forum to find somebody local to help with the welding?

$900 is enough to get into a nice Hobart handler 210 mig welder.

Amazon product
Plus when your done you got a welder for any other projects of yours or your neighbors.

Heck, $900.00 would cover the cost of a nice road trip/vacation. The weather is great the next couple of months, come visit zion and I will help you weld them for a six pack. The drive up with no caster correction might be a little scary and require some extra attention, but it would be nice to feel the before and after difference.
 
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